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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Jennair gas range model FCG2052W |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Jennair gas range model FCG2052W | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 27th, 2006 03:18 am |
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1st Post |
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Patto99 Grasshopper
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I am a relative novice when it comes to appliance repair however I have had pretty good success fumbling through a number of repairs already... But I need help here... My gas range broiler igniter would not light the broiler. I checked it with an ohm meter and it appeared to be bad so I ordered a new one and replaced it in anticipation of an order of Nachos with cheese tonight.... after changing it for the new one, I was surprised to find it still will not ignite the broiler although my regular over burner will come on no problem. There is no sign of a colour change in the igniter so I wonder if it is bad or maybe not getting power... Anything else I should check ???
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| Posted: Fri Oct 27th, 2006 03:56 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Patto99 Grasshopper
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Today I unplugged the igniter and checked it with an ohm meter...appears fine... while unplugged I turned the broiler on and checked the connector that goes to the igniter for voltage...none found... Any pointers...?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 27th, 2006 06:35 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Jacques Master Appliantologist
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the igniter is in series with the valve, sounds like that's bad. turn gas off and switch broil wires with bake on valve. if lights, the valve is bad.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 28th, 2006 12:57 am |
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4th Post |
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Patto99 Grasshopper
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Ok..I tried to get in there earlier but its tough to access..it looks like I need to rip the whole back panel off to get in there and that is blocked off by the gas feed tube for the broiler and the one going up to the elements on the stove top..they would need to come off to pull that panel off...Ill try to figure out how to get in there without doing that if its possible....lol
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| Posted: Sat Oct 28th, 2006 01:10 pm |
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5th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Your gas valve controls or allows the flow of neutral, your hot let or L1 leg comes through the clock. You want to find out what potential you are loosing. If your outlet is wired correct and the polarity is correct (Smaller vertical slot on the right if ground on the bottom to ground reads 120VAC) then you would want to program the oven for 550 degrees and do the voltage check at the igniter wires each one to ground of the unit. If you read 120VAC, then you have your L1 then you are going to have to access your safety valve. If you do not, then we have to access the clock. Is your model correct? I could not find it when looking for a schematic to see if you have a hi limit on your unit which could be the cause as well if equipped. Last edited on Sat Oct 28th, 2006 01:10 pm by Trying to help ____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 03:22 am |
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6th Post |
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Patto99 Grasshopper
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Thanks for "trying to Help"... I messed up the model number...Not sure how..I even read the posting instructions that said to make sure you get the right number... the correct number is FCG20510W Thanks again
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 01:07 pm |
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7th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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No hi limit, you have a Freestanding range. Do the checks I listed to verify which leg you are missing and then we can trace it back to your problem.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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