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Maytag Neptune MAH5500BWW Repair help

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 07:48 pm

41^st Post

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, this machine has lots of variation based on serial number, so post that, too.

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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 08:00 pm

42^nd Post

twithers
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Here's the serial #: 74949953ZU

Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 01:04 am

43^rd Post

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, according to my diagram, the only thing that controls that door lock solenoid is the machine control board. Verify the voltage to the door lock solenoid. If it's cycling at the same pattern you're seeing with door lock and unlock, that sounds like a bad machine control board. If the voltage is steady, then there's something wrong with the door lock assembly. Maybe it was put back wrong or miswired when you had everything torn apart.

And why don't you have the tech sheet that's supposed to be in the control panel. You will need it. Get a replacement.

Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2006 05:47 pm

44^th Post

twithers
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I have replaced the control board in the course of the repair process. And all things that were disconnected were just plugs that went back together. The door is in placed, but not bolted down, as well as the top panel. Is there a contact or something that would require the machine to be completely put back together for that door lock mechanism to work properly? Just reaching for straws here. It seems like I have replaced everything that is of any significance and the machine still doesn't work. Frustrating.

Posted: Sat Dec 16th, 2006 11:03 pm

45^th Post

kdog
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originally,the machine was made inoprative due to a power surge from lightning, correct?? normally,that only takes out the motor control board(but means you replace the motor/controller kit). in your initial post you say "you traced the problem down to a control board", i assume you refer to the upper machine board- did you replace it with the correct part number,as i recall there were 3 or 4 variations of machine controls-in your case,the board should be a "series 74" board.also,how did you make this determination without the use of the tech sheet.

to make life simple, take a short,3 prong extension cord(block heater cord etc)- cut off the female end and remove the cord insulation; strip the black,white and green wires and install 1/4 in. female spade terminals on the 3 wires. now you have a test cord(cheater)- disconnect the pump wires and plug the black and white wires into the pump terms. and plug directly into electric outlet. verify that the pump is indeed moving water out the end of the hose and not just "making a pumping sound".

next,use the same test cord to plug in to the black,white and green terminals on the motor controller board(lower r.h. corner), disconnect the wide harness that is connected to the controller from above. once again,plug wire into the outlet- motor should turn at 50 rpm continuously. if it does,then your problem lies in the upper control circuitry. if it does not,the cause is with either the motor or motor controller.

from what you first wrote,i would be verifying whether or not you installed the correct machine control(located in console) as a first step.

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Posted: Sun Dec 17th, 2006 12:35 am

46^th Post

twithers
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Ok, I'll check that out ASAP. Thanks. I ordered the upper control board through this website, and they used the serial # of the machine to determine the proper replacement. And the cycling door mechanism didn't start until the motor/ control board kit was replaced.

Posted: Mon Feb 5th, 2007 02:42 am

47^th Post

kursch-san
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Did you ever get this figured out? I have a MAH5500BWW that keeps trying to lock, then displays FL. It won't even run without the door locked. Usually it will work after opening and slamming the door, but not this time...

Diving into this later tonight.

Thanks

Posted: Thu Feb 8th, 2007 03:24 am

48^th Post

cdwasher
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You may have a blocked pump

Posted: Thu Feb 8th, 2007 03:40 am

49^th Post

kursch-san
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Well, I got home and just like my wife said, It made the click, click, click, click, of the solenoid. So I opened the top and put the door back on to see what was going on. It worked fine. I am thinking something was out of alignment and removing and replacing the door fixed it. ?

Only time shall tell if this was the decisive battle.

And then there was much beer.

Last edited on Thu Feb 8th, 2007 03:42 am by kursch-san

Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2007 08:17 pm

50^th Post

twithers
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Anyone know how to fix a Maytag Skybox? It stopped cooling.

Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2007 11:19 pm

51^st Post

Scottthewolf

Joined:	Thu Feb 1st, 2007
Location:	Cleveland, Ohio USA
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Do you hear the compressor running or the fans running?

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Posted: Wed Sep 12th, 2007 12:03 am

52^nd Post

twithers
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The cooling fan onthe first shelf is running, and the compressor kicks on for about 10 seconds and then turns off. I thought it just was low on Freon, but I don't see any usual place to recharge it. Looks like just a tube crimping job to recharge it. I'm not too familiar with that.

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