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Kenmore coldspot icemaker 106.53606202  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 03:08 pm
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ozzy
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The red LED on the icemaker control panel is blinking (this is just for the icemaker itself - not the whole fridge), and we've got no ice. I disassembled the motor assembly - the gear and so forth look OK - no broken teeth, cam assembly appears to be fine, etc.

Without having a voltmeter on hand (I'm in the process of moving and it's packed away), is there any way to determine the problem?

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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 05:10 pm
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Pegi
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Repair Manual...



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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 09:01 pm
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spud65
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You might need the receiver and emiter boards, they tell it when the ice bin is full. They come in a kit part # 4389102. 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=921526

W/P and K/M had a lot problems with those. Look at the manual that pegi listed to help diagnose it.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 10:39 pm
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ozzy
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Thanks Pegi. I ran through the optics diagnostics (2002) and they are working fine. I need to jumper the T and H to start a harvest cycle, but I don't have a jumper. Can I pick this up somewhere, or can I just use regular small guage wire to create a jumper?

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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 10:40 pm
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ozzy
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spud65 wrote: You might need the receiver and emiter boards, they tell it when the ice bin is full. They come in a kit part # 4389102.http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=921526  W/P and K/M had a lot problems with those. Look at the manual that pegi listed to help diagnose it.

Thanks spud - but since the optics check out OK (holding flapper closed, I get a steady lamp), I think this indicates a problem in other areas such as the motor assembly. Will need to dig out my voltmeter and pick up or create a jumper to do testing, methinks...

Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2006 02:45 pm by

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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 10:48 pm
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We use solid strand insulated copper with the ends stripped back....common problem with these systems is the water tube thru the top of the freezer cloggs with ice, have you checked this?? 



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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2006 11:22 pm
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ozzy
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Pegi wrote: We use solid strand insulated copper with the ends stripped back....common problem with these systems is the water tube thru the top of the freezer cloggs with ice, have you checked this?? 
Hi Pegi:

I took a couple of strands of copper-cored speaker wire and used that (4 strands per jumper to increase the diameter to match the jumper holes) - should have conducted easily. I observed no action, no movement, no harvest cycle.

I have not checked the water tube - according to the manual, most of the water line lies outside of the freezer liner and inside the fridge housing, so not sure how to get to it. The water nozzle inside the freezer seems OK - but could be clogged in a non-visible spot before exiting the liner, I suppose. Anyway I can test this?

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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2006 02:48 am
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Not sure that would be thick enough to make contact...remember the emmiter/receiver boards must be working and the door switch closed to jumper the ice maker....open door switch kills the ice maker circuit....reach up and squeeze the thru tube, see if you feel ice crunching...



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2006 04:30 am
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Tape the light switch down and remove the receiver board from the side of the

freezer and if you look at the harness and you will see the six wires.  If you jumper

the black and the black/white together with the board still connected to the harness

it will bypass the relay on the receiver board and start the icemaker.  The catch is

that you have to hold the jumper in contact with the wires at all times for the

icemaker to advance and there is not much room to play around in there.  In addition

you should still have the jumper inserted at T and H on the icemaker to bypass the

thermostat.  If the icemaker works with this test than the problem is probably with

the emitter/receiver board.

You can test for an obstructed icemaker water line by switching the icemaker water

valve harness with the door dispenser valve harness and then press the dispenser

switch on the door to energize the valve.  Hopefully water will run from the fill tube in

the freezer.  Clear as mud right?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 11:06 pm
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ozzy
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Well, I did manage to pick up some wire to make a solid jumper, and tried that w/ the T and H (steady lamp with emitter door taped down just to be sure). No harvest cycle. I don't have the equipment to jumper the individual wires in the harness - at least, not without destroying them in the process and adding to the repair work.

At this stage, since the optics test was OK but I can't get a harvest cycle, I'm thinking about just replacing the motor assembly (or the entire icemaker unit) and possibly the receiver board.

Can someone post a link to where I can order these pieces?

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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 02:31 am
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Fixum
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don't forget about the frozen fill line that also could stop the water from coming into the ice maker since it is mounted into the frount of the freezer, the black filler tube could be frozen, and not allow water to enter the ice maker!!!!!

ckeck the fill hoes and tube

 



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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 05:02 pm
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ozzy
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Thanks fixum - I checked the tube section that extends into the freezer unit and it's OK. Probably a good idea to check it further up to see if it's frozen along the path outside that area, if I can get to it.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 04:56 pm
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General123
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Sorry to bring this thread back to life but I had an additional question.

What could be the cause if the ice-maker does not STOP making ice? Obviously the ice-maker works and the sensor kit has already been replaced so am I right in assuming it is the board or am I missing something?

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thank You.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 06:28 pm
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You might bring me up to spped on this issue... is this icemaker an undercounter icemaker, or the usual little package tucked away in the freezer compartment?



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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 06:36 pm
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Pegi
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Regular ice maker with the ice bin in the door...only thing that shuts the ice maker off is the ice blocks the beam from the emmiter board to the reciever board...not a bad thing in the summer when you can bag and sell the extra....lol....but might be a problem now....I do not know what else could cause it to not stop popping cubes into the bin...:?...assuming you have the same type/ model Whirlpool made frig as the original post was about?  



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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 07:02 pm
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General123
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Thanks for the reply.

This ice maker has been cleaned and reinstalled and the problem persists. As far as the model goes I should have specified that it is a 106.52562100.

I appreciate the help.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 07:33 pm
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Pegi
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Same system....ice maker does not have any shut off arm so cannot shut off itself...the emmiter reciever boards control turning the ice maker off when the beam is blocked by the ice in the bin in the door..



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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 07:38 pm
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General123
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If the emitter and receiver are good can it be the main board?

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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 07:42 pm
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Pegi
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Service Manual   Assume you read this manual on this system?  Do not believe anything shuts the ice maker off except for the emmiter/receiver boards, the manual may tell something else however???



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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 07:50 pm
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General123
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I've done quite a bit of research, including skimming the manual, and haven't been able to find anything. I think we're going to go ahead and swap out the board and see what happens. Wish me luck.

Thanks Again.

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