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| Maytag Washer Leaking | Rating: 
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| Author | Post |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2006 01:35 am |
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1st Post |
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kevinshi Senior Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Like Krazyfoxx in another post (http://applianceguru.com/forum2/10013.html) I have a Maytag LAT9706AAM that is leaking. The unit was purchased on January 13, 1999. While I was out of town last week my wife called Sears service to come out and do a diagnostic check. They report that it requires “Overhaul BD and DD” including two parts: (a) “Sub Mounting” (at $92.12) and (b) Tub Bearing (at $60.13). They are asking an additional $214.34 for labor – grand total of $380.64. I see that the Maytag warranty for this is 10 years for “All parts of the transmission assembly.” I am reasonably handy however I have never taken apart a washing machine before. [If there is a “how to” guide to replacing these parts I’m pretty sure I can tackle it myself.] Questions: 1) What does “Overhaul BD and DD” mean? 2) What are the two parts referenced by the Sears fellow? I’ve done some poking around on the net and I’m guessing its these two: http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?item=22204012&brand=MAC http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?item=204013&brand=MAC 3) Is it practical for me to take on this type of repair as a novice? [And if so is there a guide or how-to that walks me through the steps?] 4) Are either of these parts covered under the above mentioned warranty (I assume not – doesn’t seem like transmission to me). 5) Given the unit is now nearly eight years old is repair a worthwhile option given the expense here – how many more years can I expect to get out of the machine if I fix this issue? Many thanks for help in advance… Thanks, kevin Last edited on Sat Sep 30th, 2006 09:59 pm by kevinshi |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2006 03:11 am |
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2nd Post |
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hvacdrd Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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1) Not sure what BD or DD stand for 2) here are your parts http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3056 and http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3075 3) You can do this and we will guide you along as you need help - stay on this post 4) No warranty on these - only the tranny 5) In my opinion it is worth it. This style Maytag is easy to work on and a real workhorse. Here is a gimpse of what you are getting into: Attachment: maytag.bmp (Downloaded 95 times)
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2006 05:05 am |
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3rd Post |
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kevinshi Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the quick reply. OK, so when I get the parts where do I start - I assume I just start looking for fasteners around the outside and start taking stuff apart? Do I put the thing on its back and approach from the bottom? Will I need any special tools or materials? I’ve got a pretty well stocked garage in terms of basics (screw drivers, sockets, wrenches, etc.). I see talk in the above referenced thread of a “spanner wrench” which I do not have (or else I don’t recognize that term). Also see reference in the other thread to grease and alcohol – do I need to get any special lubricants or cleaners? Basically I figure it will take a few days for the parts to get here and I’d liked to get as prepared as I can between now and then (both in terms of a game plan and required tools/materials). Thanks, kevin Last edited on Sat Sep 30th, 2006 09:59 pm by kevinshi |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 08:36 pm |
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5th Post |
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kevinshi Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I did this last night following the walkthrough referenced by Krazyfoxx above. Took me about 3 hours, though I really took my time and did a lot of needless clean up along the way (but made me feel good doing it… ;-). Per advice this was a pretty easy job though of course it would be 50% easier a second time... Below are some notes for anyone who decides to take this on. I did not need the “extra how to take apart information” referenced at the top of the walkthrough – the walkthrough itself had plenty of guidance. First: Be sure and read the required tools at the bottom of the walkthrough – for me these were as important as the parts themselves. There were two tools I decided to buy that I am very glad I did – the Spanner Wrench and the Torx driver. An Allen wrench would work fine instead of the Trox driver but the driver did make step 12 a lot easier. Other than those two I did not need any really *special* tools – though I do have a pretty well stocked garage as noted above. Second: I wish someone would have told me to go ahead and purchase a new set of the primary water discharge hoses. I would have replaced these hoses while I was inside the machine had I had them (as mine seemed a little worn and it would have been trivial to replace them while I had it all torn apart). I'm pretty sure the two hoses are the following two parts, would be great to have a professional in this forum reply to this thread to confirm: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1450 http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=454571 Third: To answer one of my own questions: nearly all of this job is done with the washer in a normal upright position. The only exception is having to rock it back 45 degrees or so to get at the clips/screws on the underside that attach the front panel to the machine. Finally: In theory I suppose you could choose to only replace either the “Under Water Seal Kit” or the “Tub Bearing Kit” and reuse the other (presumably not faulty) part. I highly recommend against this - use NEW parts for both of these even if only one of them is technically leaking – good chance you are wrong about the other part not being faulty and in any case do them both while you are there – the tear down is 95% of the work. OK, so here are my notes within the walkthrough. (I’m using item numbers that corresponds to the original walkthrough (i.e. 3a needs to happen after 3 but before 4)). 3a) Before lifting the top cover (step 4) take some heavy tape (e.g. duct tape) and fasten the lid down so it won’t open. This will prevent the lid from falling open as you lift the top cover. I failed to do this an nearly put a dent in my wall when the lid suddenly responded to gravity as I opened/lifted the top. 3b) I have a bleach dispenser left front. I had to disconnect the hose from it before lifted the top. 5) I did not have to do this step (I think I must not have such a hose – perhaps they meant the bleach dispenser I mention above). 6) Didn’t have to do this as I apparently have a newer plastic top cover that came off (and went back on) super easily. 8) See my #6 comment 14) Removing the seal (I’d call it a boot gasket) was pretty hard. I had to use heavy pliers and put a lot of elbow grease into this step. “Careful you can slip” is an understatement. Once I finally applied enough muscle the boot came flying off – hit the ceiling and ricocheted of a wall, landing in a gooey mess on the floor. Harmless but startling. 16) See my comment #27. 22) My metal sleeve collar came off easily – I did not have the problems encountered by Krazyfoxx in the thread I referenced in my original post (http://applianceguru.com/forum2/10013.html) so I didn’t have to “split” the sleeve as described in that thread. 24) I had to apply some WD40 to the tub bearing (I suppose you could use a bit of dish soap) to get it to go into the outer tank (no amount of impact would get it to go all the way in). I think my tub had become a bit corroded. I was careful to use as little WD40 as I could – and wiped up all the extra. I was worried that too much would screw up the seal so I was really conservative. However once I did that I was able to get it totally flush into the outer tub. 27) My “Tub Bearing Kit” came with new lock washers and new fiber washers. I didn’t discover that until I was totally done with the job which was unfortunate – I would have installed these new fasteners rather than reuse the old ones. 31) There was a sheet with a “hint” that came with my parts instructing me to take a clean dry cloth and clean of the hard carbon O-ring on both the under water seal and the tub bearing seal (the primary pieces of your new parts kits). Those two O-rings seat together upon final assembly – the hint indicates that it is helpful for them to be totally clean. In the post I referenced at the top of this thread Krazyfoxx thought he had ran into this problem and in response hvacdrd recommended wiping them down with alcohol (to make them even cleaner). I neglected to do the alcohol step but did carefully wipe them with a clean dry towel (and obviously that worked fine). 36-37) For me these steps seemed to be inverted. I was careful to check the black rubber gasket in my top cover – assured it was seated in the top cover such that it would properly seal as I pressed the top cover down on the outer drum. I also took the time to clean off all the grime around the edge of the top cover (again probably needless but afterall this is suppose to be a CLEANING appliance...). 38-42) See my comment #6. I did do step 41 though I’m not sure I really had to do this (it was fine I any case). 43) See my comment #5. 43a) I believe the author of the walkthrough neglects to remind that you need to reinstall the agitator (the reverse of what you did at their step 9). I suppose you could do this at step 48 (after all the testing is done). When done I had no leaks though I was super careful to make sure I had all the hoses resealed very well and the parts fully flush per the directions. Worked great!
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| Posted: Sun Oct 1st, 2006 04:06 am |
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6th Post |
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hvacdrd Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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A job well done and thanks for posting your notes, I am certain it will help someone out very soon. 
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