View single post by Budget Appliance Repair
 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 09:48 am
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Budget Appliance Repair


Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
I can almost guarantee you it's a bad wax motor in the door switch.

That is the exact thing you will see on these electronic control models when that part of the door lock/switch goes bad.

If you remove the front lower access panel you should find an envelope taped to the left side wall of the washer, it will have the info you need to put the machine into a diagnotic mode and read the error codes.

You will more then likely come up with a code indicating PTC of door lock/latch is bad, (PTC = Positive Thermal Coefficent?? heater disc on wax motor).

There are two normally open contacts in the door switch, a relay coil and the wax motor. When the door is shut the machine sends 110volts to the relay coil which will close the main set of contacts in the switch, (if the door isn't closed or the latch is broken then the coil can't lock the door and close the contacts so machine won't work at all).

Once the machine sends power to the relay coil and sees that the main contacts are closed it lets the machine start. When you get to a spin cycle, then the wax motor is powered up with 110volts which will physically lock the door shut, and also close the other set of contacts in the door lock/switch. When the machine sees that the lock contacts are closed it can go into high speed spin.

If you pull the power cord when the machine is in a high speed spin, you will not be able to open the door for about 2 minutes, (this is the safety to keep you from trying to reach in when the tub is still spinning), the approximate time of 2 minutes is the time it takes the wax motor to cool down after power has been removed and retract to it's normal unlock position.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501