|View single post by Dominic|
|Posted: Thu Sep 20th, 2007 12:25 am||
|GSD6200G00BB dishwasher. Trips 20A breaker when cycle starts. Track problem down to water valve circuit (pink wire out of control board, yes I have wiring diagram). Disconnect harness from water valve, still trips breaker. Disconnect harness from float switch, doesn't trip breaker.
Remove float switch micro. Middle pin definitely has some melting, presumably from the several dozen times I've tripped the breaker during diagnosis. Put multi across the two pins that the float switch harness goes to, have connectivity. Push the float level down, no change. (Shouldn't there be connectivity anyway when the float switch is down?). So even though the float switch is faulty, it doesn't seem to be the problem…
Figure it can't hurt to get replacement float switch. ($32, ouch). Install, think my job is done. Guess again. Breaker doesn't trip, but water valve doesn't turn on now.
Test for voltage. Getting 110V to harness that goes onto float switch. Getting 0V at harness that goes to water valve solenoid. Water valve solenoid shows connectivity (I didn't check resistance).
Remove float switch micro. Apparently the new float switch is defective, because the metal level has no tension in it, and there is no connectivity in either the up or down position. What the?!?
Jumper the float switch harness to get 110V to the water valve (damn the float switch, full speed head!). Turn on cycle, breaker trips. (Oof. Blow to stomach.)
Read Samarai forum. There is mention of a transient absorber ("transorb") wired to the leaad coming from the float switch and going to the water valve harness. This is to "absorb electrical transients created when the water valve is turned off." Figure it can't be that important. (Ha!). See http://applianceguru.com/forum1/9914.html
Remove transorb and put wire nuts on both exposed wires.
Put jumper back in float valve harness, replace water valve harness onto water valve. Turn on water pump using service mode (entered by holding "pots and pans" and "heated dry" simultaneously for 3 secs.). Breaker does not trip, water flows into tub. Hooray!
Not so fast. Water valve will not shut off even after service mode exited! Start regular cycle, water continues to flow, circulation pump turns on, water valve keeps filling, and filling…. (Remember, float valve is bypassed.)
I could put the float valve (a working one) back in, but the water valve is just constantly on. It is not stuck open. It is getting voltage. I disconnected the lead going to it and it shut off. There is clearly some kind of control problem.
Did my good idea of removing the transorb fry something in the control panel? I don't want to spend $80 without somehow verifying this.
Last edited on Thu Sep 20th, 2007 12:29 am by Dominic