|View single post by Budget Appliance Repair|
|Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 12:11 pm||
Budget Appliance Repair
This is good, you are into the area to fix or find your problem. I just worked on one like this a few days ago, it seems the microswitch that is in the middle of the sliderbar maybe got out of adjustment causing the solenoid in back to not activate, then the customer trying to open the door bent the lock handle and the slider bar that runs from front to back.
could be but if the lock light was on during self-clean then went out after it cooled down then this is probably ok.
2) Is this temp sensor the same as the thermostat?
No, there is the main thermostat that is used when cooking, (that's the small capillary tube with the small tube going to the larger sensor tube), and the seperate temp sensor, which is the large fat tube sticking out in the left top corner, (this is the one that senses temp for self-clean lock).
3) On these old units, is the SELF-CLEAN mode timer controlled? If so, I may be in trouble because I'm not even sure if the clock or timers work. (I've manually forwarded the clock about 12 hours, hoping this would release something, but no go).
Yes, controled by setting stop time on clock to 2 to 3 hours past your start time so self-clean will shut off and be done in the amount of time you decide to run self-clean. The one I worked on had same problem, (clock didn't work, customer was totally aware of this and just sets an alarm clock and turns the stop timer back to the start time to stop when the correct amount of time has gone by.
4) Is there some kind of self-clean solenoid? If so, what is it actually doing?
Yes, the self-clean solenoid is the green coil in back just above the tab that you lifted to get the door to unlock.
This or the mircoswitch that is in the middle of the slide bar are the two most comman problems.
1) Solenoid could be bad, (open coil)
2) microswitch could be bad
3) microswitch could be out of adjustment so switch isn't getting activated to activate solenoid to release lock when the lock lever is moved.
With the door unlock, when you move the handle to lock, it should activate the microswitch with only a small amount of movement, then same when going from lock to unlock.
If you look at the slidebar that runs from front to back you will see two square notch openings cut in the bottom of the slidebar right near the microswitch contact arm. When in the full unlock or lock position the contact arm should be down in one of the two openings leaving the switch in an open state so solenoid is not activated. As soon as you move the lock handle you should see the contact arm ride up out of the notch and activate the switch in turn sending power to the solenoid which lifts the tab in back out of the way of the tabs that stick up on the slidebar to lock it.
If you have tried to hard to open the door when it was still locked or was having problems there is a good chance your have bent the slidebar that goes from front to back. If you take this bar out and lay it on a flat surface, it should be flat and level along it's whole length, towards the back end of the bar where it necks down, it can bend and it will look like it is suppose to be made this way but it's not. It has to be flat.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501