|View single post by ourstocks2002|
|Posted: Tue May 3rd, 2011 07:48 pm||
|Ok, now for progress notes.
Studying the wiring diagram showed that the capacitor is a run capacitor and not a start capacitor so I decided to check it again since it was NOT the reason that the compressor was not starting. This time I used the correct terminals on my multimeter (oops), it measured at 12uF. Capacitor is good.
The wiring diagram shows that the compressor common get powered with a hot wire and the start and run/main terminals get neutral. Knowing that the overload was working fine (this is what is making the click after the humm when the compressor is "locked rotor" and drawing high amps) it would protect the motor from overload. So, all I needed to do to get the compressor to come on it put neutral (or ground) to the start pin of the compressor at start-up. I used a light switch, a junction box, power strip/bar, and wire from an old appliance.
I plugged the power bar/strip into the wall outlet. With the power bar/strip off, I plugged my wire into the power bar. I put a wire nut on the hot (black) wire of my wire just in case the power bar/strip was swtiched on "reset". I wired the neutral (white) through the switch and mounted the switch on the junction box. I removed the capacity from the relay/overload assembly and wrapped the free end neutral wire and wrapped it around the "blade" that corresponds to the start winding on the compressor. I then installed the capacitor back into the relay/overload assembly.
Incidently, another way to remember which windings have the highest resistance is to think about the amount of use. The run/main winding run "all the time" so they have more copper in them compared to the start windings. More copper means less resistance. Less copper, more resistance. If you have seen resistance values for motors you will see that the resistance drops as the motor gets bigger for the same reason.
I plugged the refrigerator in and heard the hum. I switched the neutral and the compressor started. I quickly switched the neutral back off and the compressor stayed on, success!! I decided that I would leave it run and shut it self off when the temp in the fridge and freezer reached setpoint. When it shut off, I unplugged it to prevent it from trying to come back on without me being there to neutral boost it back on. I am using a wireless thermometer to monitor the temperature and turn it back on every now and then. I will get the new PTC/overload tomorrow but at least I have refrigeration until then.
I hope that this info helps some. If you try to do similar, please be sure to review your unit wiring diagram AND validate the diagram with your multimeter to know what wires to what, etc. Also, be sure to use common sense and safe practices. If you are not sure, don't do it!!!