... I have heard there is a way to take apart the door switch assembly and rig it to think it's always locked so it will operate...
no, but the internal Wax Moitor can be replaced
Budget Appliance Repair wrote:
There are two parts to the door locking mechanism. The first part is an electrical coil that pulls the mechanical locking arm down into lock position, in this position the machine will run but when the machine calls for the second part of the lock procedure, engage wax motor to physically hold locking lever in postion, this second part is what fails, (it also closes a second contact point in the door switch to let the machine know that the door is actually physically locked).
The wax motor will physically keep the door from being open until about 2 minutes after power has been removed to give the spin basket plenty of time to come to a full stop before the door can be opened.
The diagnostic spin and all test of door lock system never activates the wax motor to physically lock the door, you could put the machine into the diagnostic mode and put it in the spin test, let it get up to full spin speed and pull the power plug and you would be able to immediately open the door with the spin basket coasting to a stop or reach in and break your arm off.
The door switch/lock assembly are pretty easy to remove and you can carefully pop the switch case apart and see all the inner workings. You could make a test cord, (just a used cord off any old appliance with push on connectors), and attach it to the wax motor and plug it in, if the wax motor is operating correctly it will extend to it's full on position in about 90 seconds.
The mechanical part of the wax motors is what usually fails, you could check it's ohms and it would read ok and heat up correctly, (after you have had it plugged in for about 2 minutes, pull the plug and feel the side of the wax motor and it should be hot to the touch), if it's hot and didn't extend out the door lock is your problem.
If you find that is your problem you can just replace the wax motor in the switch for a lot less then the cost of the complete new switch/lock assembly, (you will have to ask about the part# if you determine that to be your problem and don't want to replace the complete switch/lock assembly).
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