| View single post by ikaruga | |||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 07:12 pm |
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ikaruga
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Thanks for the reply! I had the opportunity to test the components with my multimeter this weekend, using the wiring diagram as a guide![]() 1. The thermal relay shows continuity. (I also replaced this a couple months ago). 2. The thermostat (#15 in the parts diagram) shows continuity. I'm guessing that it's the "Safety Stat." in the wiring diagram. 3. I'm not sure what "Adj. Stat." is, but I think it's the temperature selector on the control console. It has a long, stiff metal wire that starts at the console and ends at the blower housing exit. This part shows continuity as well. 4. The radiant sensor (#49) shows continuity. Testing the ignitor was a little trickier for me. My dryer doesn't have Molex connectors, just these nylon end caps. ![]() (You can barely see the molex connector from the power supply at the bottom of the photo, but the ground/voltage wires are then split into the end caps. The valve solenoids are the dark blobs in the right-center of the photo.) They're not wire nuts--I think they're called crimp caps-- and the only way I could figure out to remove the wire was to cut it. Is there a better way to remove these caps? Anyhow, probing the wires indicated no continuity, so I'm guessing that I need to replace the ignitor. What's the best way for me to reconnect the ignitor if I don't have a matching molex collector? Should I cut off the connector the part comes with, and wire nut everything together? Should I replace my existing caps with molex connectors? Thanks in advance for your advice!
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