View single post by sberrymon
 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 02:06 pm
Full Topic


Joined: Tue Aug 30th, 2005
Posts: 5
My Maytag is now back up and running correctly.  A few, simple parts failed (over time) and made it frustrating to troubleshoot. (check the circuit board and water exit on the washer as described elsewhere in this forum to ensure that they are working). If they are fine, then ...

First, check the door ramp. It should be clean and smooth with two squares at the very top. (Mine was fuzzy and had no material at the top. This caused the metal door latch to pass under the plastic latch that is part of the locking mechanism.  If the plastic door lock is not engaged when the wax motor is activated the spin switch will not be activated and no high speed spin happens!  If the ramp is worn down you can make a cardboard riser to lay on top of the existing ramp and tape it down. This will allow you to close the door and test the latch circuits. The door should close easily.

If the door latches okay, pull open the front washer panel and remove the two screws that hold down the top of the washer.  The top will only lift up about 4-6 inches.  Place an object under the top to hold it in the raised position.  You should be able to see the door latching mechanism.  Remove the screw that holds on the bottom plastic cover of the door circuit area. (this will give you access to the small light bulb).  You should be able to see two white switches, one on either side of a red-brown wax motor and the plastic door latch.

The white switch on the left, controls the door lock light (the machine will high speed spin even if this is not lit). The switch on on the right, controls the door lock circuit and if this is not working you will get no high speed spin. 

Set the washer to spin, close the door, and press the start button.  Watch to see if the wax motor, extends out and closes the contacts on both switches. If the wax motor failed (or the circuits on the control board) then the plunger on the right side will not extend (check the circuit board as described in the other email messages), if it extends, make sure both white switches have working contact switches. The small bump should be protruding out of the switch and should click if you push it in. No click, it has failed and should be replaced.

My left switch was broken first then just 10 days after I replaced the switch and door ramp, the other switch failed also. So you might replace bot of them together (They should cost about $8 each). 

Hope this helps,