View single post by Budget Appliance Repair
 Posted: Thu Nov 27th, 2008 07:25 am
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Budget Appliance Repair

 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
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kawmagnum wrote: Seems that would make sense, but the door lock does engage and the door lock light is on. Door is locked both during diagnostic and while trying "drain & spin" and "Rinse and spin". I have ordered the main control board but I am still suspicious that may not be the problem. I have removed the main control board, checked all connections and inspected the Board. No corrosion or obvious issues.

There are two parts to the door locking mechanism.  The first part is an electrical coil that pulls the mechanical locking arm down into lock position, in this position the machine will run but when the machine calls for the second part of the lock procedure, engage wax motor to physically hold locking lever in postion, this second part is what fails, (it also closes a second contact point in the door switch to let the machine know that the door is actually physically  locked).

The wax motor will physically keep the door from being open until about 2 minutes after power has been removed to give the spin basket plenty of time to come to a full stop before the door can be opened. 

The diagnostic spin and all test of door lock system never activates the wax motor to physically lock the door, you could put the machine into the diagnostic mode and put it in the spin test, let it get up to full spin speed and pull the power plug and you would be able to immediately open the door with the spin basket coasting to a stop or reach in and break your arm off.

The door switch/lock assembly are pretty easy to remove and you can carefully pop the switch case apart and see all the inner workings.  You could make a test cord, (just a used cord off any old appliance with  push on connectors), and attach it to the wax motor and plug it in, if the wax motor is operating correctly it will extend to it's full on position in about 90 seconds.

The mechanical part of the wax motors is what usually fails, you could check it's ohms and it would read ok and heat up correctly, (after you have had it plugged in for about 2 minutes, pull the plug and feel the side of the wax motor and it should be hot to the touch), if it's hot and didn't extend out the door lock is your problem.

If you find that is your problem you can just replace the wax motor in the switch for a lot less then the cost of the complete new switch/lock assembly, (you will have to ask about the part# if you determine that to be your problem and don't want to replace the complete switch/lock assembly).



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William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501