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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher & Paykel GWL10 washer not draining |
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| Fisher & Paykel GWL10 washer not draining | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2007 07:57 pm |
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21st Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have entered appliance repair purgatory. F&P GWL10 has served us well for 5 years but I have a problem now that has me at a point of frustration and defeat. We originally bought the F&P to fit a smaller space in a duplex and I had no idea about the difficulty of locating parts anywhere or getting service in a rural area. I am writing this post primarily to help others avoid the same mistakes I have made this week. Washer originally would not drain. Same symptoms as top of this post. Found the the diagnostics sheet in the top of the control panel. Tried all suggestions plus others (unplug machine, unplug diverter valve, unplug drain pump, diagnostics, let sit, etc.). Couldn't get anything to reveal. Even checked drain pump although water was pumping and recirculating at the point it would not drain. After trying several times, machine stopped powering up altogether. Unplug, wait 60 seconds, plug in and display controller only flashes. I now feel that sinking feeling that I have made matters worse. (First mistake) Called our appliance service man. Didn't realize he was not F&P factory authorized which means parts he buys and not warranted any more than if I buy them direct. Of course he doesn't have the service manual either. (Second mistake). He tries calling New Zealand and didn't even know parts are available from California. By the way for the uninitiated, F&P parts not generally avaliable locally and must be shipped from CA which takes several days unless pay an extra $25 for overnight delivery. After reading posts and understanding how the diverter valve works, I assumed I had a diverter valve problem that was simply stuck. Took off hoses, valve felt stuck, pushed on it and broke the gray plastic arm. If you are at this point, take the diverter valve off of the machine and look and how it is made before you start pushing on things. Anyway, it is now broken but I don't have power so I still don't know if it is the diverter valve or not. Of course, laundry is starting to pile up and wife is becoming very unhappy. From this posts, learned it may also be the motor controller. Couldn't find the diverter valve locally but just happened to find the motor controller from a local service company. Took a chance and bought it (cost $133 total), plugged in and no difference. Board still flashes briefly. Now I wonder if I have burned up a second motor controller. So I now have a machine that won't power, a $65 service bill, a controller that I can't return, and a broken diverter valve. Anyone have any ideas or suggesitons on why I can't get the power to come on. I assume it is not the display controller because it was working just fine and another post indicates those usually do not cause problems. Is there any way to check anything more or is it time to throw in the towel (pun intended)? We have the matching dryer so I would pay a few more bucks even though it is probably not worth going further, but a man's pride is worth something. I usually am pretty good at making repairs on my jeep, outdoor power equipment, and even appliances but this one has the best of me so far. Unfortunately I didn't discover this site until several days of "experimenting." Had I known about it, I would have gladly paid the one time fix it fee. If anyone who is reasonaly mechnical finds this post and is in a similar situation, I would highly recommend paying the fee for the help before you ruin other parts and further delay the repair. Takes too long to get a part from California only to discover that something else is needed. To make matters worse, we went to Lowe's yesterday and saw the GLW15 for only $599. I have always said that hell is a place where the condemned must try to fix trailer lights for eternity (anyone who has ever owned an old trailer understands this frustration). I now think working on a F&P washing machine will be right there as well. Last edited on Sun Jun 17th, 2007 08:08 pm by grandlaker |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 02:57 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Hello, I was wondering if you could help. The washer will not drain. I have a Fisher & Paykel Washer Model GWL10 Ecosmart. I am getting an error code #37 Pump Block Error. I have tried unplugging the machine for one minute and attempted to restart the load but when the load gets to the rinse cycle the water just circulates and will not empty into the hose. That is when I get the error code. Additionally, I have tried the Drain Pump Test by pressing there REGULAR button to drain the tub but the water just circulates in the tub. Does this mean that the drain pump is not working or does it mean that the diverter valve is not working. I have also read postings that it could be a motor controll module. Where do I start? What is wrong with the operations? How can I fix this washer? Sincerely, Kurt
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 03:12 pm |
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23rd Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have learned first hand that the problem is either the motor controller board or the diverter valve. You MIGHT get lucky and replace the diverter valve and all will be well. The diverter valve is only 12 dollars or something small like that directly from F&P. I was not so lucky. I replaced the valve and I still had the same problem. So, I had to replace the controller at 133.00. Bam, problem fixed. Good luck
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 03:51 pm |
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24th Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well I just ordered $200 in parts ($ 22.03 for the divirter valve and $ 144.28 for the motor controll + $25 overnight shipping, and we will see what happens. I hope this stuff is not diffucult to install. Can I assume the divirter valve is on the back of the machine or is it unter the machine. How do I access the motor controll valve? Does anyone have diagrams? Regards Kurt
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 03:54 pm |
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25th Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The diverter valve is under the washer. You will have to siphon out the water left in the tube and then tip the washer forward to access the diverter valve. As for the controller it is under the control panel. You need to remove the 2 screws at the back of the control. The oanel should come off and then you will have access to the motor controller. Before removing the MC I would suggest taking a few pictures of the wire and plug layout that way you can look back at the pics while you are reassembling the unit.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2007 12:31 am |
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26th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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There are multiple posts on the diverter/pump/mc problems with F&P GWL10-GWL15 machines that appear to have the same basic operational functions. No one, however, has offered to help with a diagnostic approach so that you don't have to buy all parts or worse, risk burning up a MC because the wrong part was changed. If the machine is not draining, isn't there a way to know which part is malfunctioning? For anyone who was smart enough to find this site and these posts before you kept plugging it in until you no longer had power to the unit, don't keep trying to "reset" after waiting 60 seconds. Search the forum and read everything you can about it; write down the codes (if any you get) and what the machine is doing (e.g. is water pumping during the agitation?). Resist the temptation to just "try something" or you will end up in worse shape. My washer is sitting in the garage; would like to fix and give to a charity but I can't afford to try to fix it any more. Better to just send it to the dump and give the money that I would have spent on parts (and the matching dryer) to charity.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2007 12:48 am |
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27th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Kschlichting Search the forum and you will find a thread with a detailed description of the diverter valve. The problem is how to figure out whether it is working or not. I didn't get to have a chance to try this but you might. The connections on the diverter look like the end of a two prong extension cord. Make a 24 inch female wire connector that will connect to one of the diverter male plugs and a 24 inch male connector that plugs in the female connector that would ordinarily attach to that prong of the diverter. Leave the other wire connected to the other prong. Right the machine and run the two long wire leads under the back so you can access them. Place a 12V test light in the circuit and start the machine. If the machine is trying to pump water but the test light does not operate at the point in the cycle, then that may mean the MC is bad and is not sending power to operate the diverter arm. If the test light operates, then it would seem that the diverter is bad. I don't know if this will work but it seems liks it should. If anyone has a better idea (e.g. ohm measurement), then please speak up. You just may help save a marriage..... Also, is it true that if the water is circulating into the basket but just won't pump out, then you know that the pump adjacent to the diverter is working? Is is possible that a MC malfunction can cause the pump to work on some parts of the cycle but not others? Last edited on Fri Jun 29th, 2007 12:55 am by grandlaker |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 8th, 2007 05:13 pm |
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28th Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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AH! It was only the diverter pump! I was lucky. Now I can send back the other part and get a refund from the company. My marriage is saved. Problem: I could not figure out why our clothes smelled bad. Prior to the fix I added a drain trap to the washer drain thinking the odors were from sewer gas. (Yes the builder did not install one) I noticed that when the diverter valve is broken that not all of the water is draining our and the wash water is partially contaminated with old water, making the clothes smell bad. Therefore if the clothes start smelling bad the water is not fully draining from the very bottom of the tub (which you can’t see without taking the agitator out) and you may not know it until there is a complete breakdown of the diverter valve. Thanks for all the help. J
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 12:33 am |
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29th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Did you still have power to the display board before you fixed your diverter valve?
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 09:46 pm |
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30th Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oh dear God in heaven and all his heavenly host! Sick baby and the washer just STOPPED draining. SO, please please tell me how to enter the diagnostic mode and what do the 0s and 1s mean so I can get a diagnostic code and come back. HELP It is hot and I will have to drain the washer by siphoning the water out and the baby is screaming and I just paid 5 bucks and got this message: Currently subscribed - expires on Sat May 9th, 1970 So, I was apparently ripped off for 37 years of my 99 year subscription. Or something. HELP!
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 09:48 pm |
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31st Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hello, I was wondering if you could help. The washer will not drain. I have a Fisher & Paykel Washer Model GWL10 Ecosmart. I am getting an error code #37 Pump Block Error. I have tried unplugging the machine for one minute and attempted to restart the load but when the load gets to the rinse cycle the water just circulates and will not empty into the hose. That is when I get the error code. Additionally, I have tried the Drain Pump Test by pressing there REGULAR button to drain the tub but the water just circulates in the tub. Does this mean that the drain pump is not working or does it mean that the diverter valve is not working. I have also read postings that it could be a motor controll module. Where do I start? What is wrong with the operations? How can I fix this washer? This is EXACTLY what happens to me but I do not get an error code cause I don't know what to do or how to read them.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 09:59 pm |
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32nd Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oh thank Gott in Himmel. I think it is draining, but very slowly in the drain pump test mode. Well, at least if I have to move it out from the wall it will have less water in it. OK, now I am going to try to clean up that document so that I can read it when I print it out. You guys are helping so much and you aren't even on!
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 11:11 pm |
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33rd Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Big fat, Please feel free to start a new topic, in fact, I'm begging you. Please give relevant details so we can help you more.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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