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Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 12:52 pm
   
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brent
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when putting the boot back onthe inner tub kit does it fit around the plastic shell or the stainless steel drum?

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1038491

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 Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 02:14 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Here's the complete procedure for replacing the boot on this washer. Read through it and click the links for the pictures.

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/10/27/how-to-replace-the-tub-boot-on-a-frigidaire-built-front-loading-washing-machine-frigidaire-washer-repair-tub-boot/



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 Posted: Sat Jun 17th, 2006 08:04 pm
   
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Toohey
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Hopefully this thread hasn't died yet...I have a kenmore model 417.4014200 front loader that showed the same signs as the other posts in this thread - streaky stained clothes coming out of the washer and loud banging noise during high speed spin. I saw the link to the complete inner/outer drum assembly but that part did not show up for my model so I took the drum out for a look-see. I found brown gunk coming out where the rear bearing is so thats probably shot. I also noticed alot of this brown stuff in the inside of the outer drum moving in an upward direction (which I found odd). Anyway, I didn't see anything broken but it did make a distinct clunking noise during spin (maybe the bearing allowed the drum to hit the top of the cabinet?)
Having said way too much, I was wondering if I could just replace the bearing (I'd probably go with the rear outer drum assemby) or could I use the complete unit http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1063854

Thanks!

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 Posted: Sat Jun 17th, 2006 08:07 pm
   
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Toohey
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Sorry, my model number is 417.40142000 in above post.
thanks

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 Posted: Sun Jun 18th, 2006 12:22 pm
   
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gak
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Hi, I faced the same problem and ordered the rear assembly with the new bearings. only to find out after taking it apart that one of the supports that hold the drum to the spindle was cracked and broken and had to replaced. So I had to replace the  drum anyway. In my case replacing the whole assemble would have saved me time and money. The lesson learned would be to not order the rear assemble until you take it apart to examine the drum spiders, or order the complete assemble and be safe.

Good luck,

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 Posted: Sun Jun 18th, 2006 05:53 pm
   
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kdog
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which is what i suggested back on page 1, post 3,the job is straight forward,and affordable.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 20th, 2006 01:12 am
   
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Toohey
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I opted for only the rear drum with bearing. the arms on the inner drum seemed ok, its the later model w/o the welds. I wasn't absolutely sure if the whole replacement inner and outer kit would fit my model, the repairclinic.com could not confirm it for me.
Any advice in fitting the shaft into the new bearing?
Thanks

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 Posted: Tue Jun 20th, 2006 10:06 am
   
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Just clean up the shaft with a fine grade emory cloth and don't damage the brass ring that rides in the seal area and you will be ok.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 2nd, 2006 03:35 pm
   
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binki
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Does anyone know whether the current models have this same problem?

I am weighing the options: 300+ dollars plus time and effort to make a repair that will probably only last a few years, versus 600+ dollars to just get a new one. If the new ones don't have this problem anymore, that decision gets a lot easier.

Last edited on Sun Aug 6th, 2006 06:09 pm by binki

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 Posted: Mon Aug 14th, 2006 01:28 am
   
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aardvark1
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Kenmore (Frigidaire) 417.41042000.  Loud noise during fast spin.  Suspected bad bearing (pretty sure it was a made in China bearing and not an SKF or FSE).  Nonetheless, called Sears to send a guy out...$65 to confirm, already had all the panels off.  He says, "yep bad bearings...$500 to fix"  I get bad prices on bearings but 2 SKF's are only $75 and I can get cheap Chinese ones for a lot less and that is what Sears would put in ...if they didn't want to replace the entire tub.  Took it apart and I have 2 (of 3) broken spider arms.   Do I still have bad bearings?  Do you think that Sears would be interested in refunding the money on a misdiagnosed problem?  Do I have a leg to stand on because I took it apart?  What if I put it back together and played dumb, then fought!  Why do I have to pay for a part that has a 25 year warranty when the machine is 5 years old?  Does anybody want to get me a drum on a warranty claim?  Why do I feel that Sears neglected to use Vaseline? Twice?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 14th, 2006 02:59 am
   
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AccApp
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Back before I ever had any knowledge of appliances, my Kenmore branded Amana SxS ref side got warm, the coil frosted over and the evap fan refused to run. I called Sears (like I said, I had no knowledge of appliances) and they sent a PCM out the next day. After five minutes of chin scratching and head nodding, the diagnosis was offered: bad evap fan motor, not in stock anywhere, eta two weeks+, $220. He did swipe my Sears card through his high tech machine and tendered unto me a lovely itemized printout of the charges. I asked what I should do with the spoiling food, he said, "Better eat it now." (okay, I did add that to my vocabulary in such situations).

Knowing that there was a Grainger in my town that could supply my seemingly bizarre needs for other items, I set out to have a look at this poor failed motor. Removed the fragile looking thing to my sub-terranean workshop and applied 120v via the aptly named "cheater cord". It sprang to life! I immediately placed it back in position and ran the cheater cord through an opening in the back wall. Worked great for a couple of days until the coil frosted up again. I set out to determine the true cause of the trouble. With the help of my schematic-savvy electronics-designer brother, we determined it to be failed defrost thermostat. $17 later and we were back in business. I called up Sears and they happily canceled the service call and refunded the deposit I had charged to my Sears card.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 1st, 2006 03:46 pm
   
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Michelle
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Konichiwa O Wise Ones,
I have a Kenmore front loading washer model 417.29042992
I got this washer in 1999 and have been very happy with this washer up until recently.  There are only two of us so the washer isn't used as much as it would be in other households.  Out of the blue it started to make a lot of noise during the spin cycle.  The noise grew even worse during the high speed spin.  I found pieces of plastic in the laundry.  After some exploration I found the source of plastic to be where the spin tub was rubbing against the shell front tub.  I removed more plastic and though that my problems would be fixed if I releveled the machine  (for I am a nieve young grasshopper).  This did improve the situation.  But it remained noisy during the spin cycle, thought the high speed spin was nearly back to normal.  With the washer empty when I spin the tub is does seem to clunk in and out of place.  So I did a little searching online and found this site.  Now I suspect I too have a bearing issue going on.  I tried to remove the back panel.  I had four screws that needed to be drilled out.  I was able to drill two, but now the drill bit seems to be too dull to drill out the other two.  From what I can see, the pully drum appears intact and I'm not seeing any gunk.   I know this does not mean this isn't a  bearing problem.  I just not sure what to do next. 

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 Posted: Fri Sep 1st, 2006 06:06 pm
   
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hvacdrd
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If it is noisy in spin and you are removing pieces of plastic it IS the bearing - you are in for a treat. First off try using a square head bit to remove the screws on the back panel and you will find it much easier. As you have read in this post you will likely need to replace the back half of the outer tub and may have a problem with the spin basket support arm as well, when you get it disassembled you will surely know.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 1st, 2006 06:57 pm
   
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DB130
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Did you use a Robertson screwdriver bit to remove the back panel screws?  They can be removed with a normal Philips screwdriver but they tend to slip out.

I don't know what else to tell you if you at this point then to replace the drill bit with a new one.  Once you get to the innards, we'd be able to tell you more.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:25 am
   
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aardvark1
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Time to discuss the Reality Side of Shmears:

Michelle, you are in for the same drill which I am going through.  If you read my earlier post, you'll be up to speed.  Let me give you an update.   I went to the appliance parts store next to my shop and he gave me a high price, but seemingly good advice at the time.  That drum has a 25 year warranty on it, and I should contact a Frigidaire repair man; even gave me a name.  I called and spoke with a "nice" lady who I explained my problem to and when I got to the part where I told her that I had taken the washer apart...she wanted nothing to do with it and rapidly ended the call.  I went to another regional parts store chain.  They gave me a high price too and another name.  I called this guy and it took 3 follow up calls to him and 3 weeks before he got back to me.  I was willing to pay him for him time to get me a drum...  When he heard it was Kenshmore, he wanted nothing to do with it.  I wrote Frigidaire (who e-mailed me promptly within 2 hours, even on an early Saturday morning), informing me that Shmears now owns the whole shooting match, machine warranty, etc.  I contacted Shmears (again).  They informed me that  the drum only has a 1 year warranty (even though the frigidaire one has 25 years).  The technician, whom I paid $65 to in order to MISDIAGNOSE the problem stated that I have bad bearings.  Well, when I took the machine apart, I saw broken spider arms.  They insisted that it was a "Code 23" (or whatever their code is for bad bearings).  This "gentleman" insisted that the bearings are part of the drum; yet for some reason I wasn't seeing this considering that the beaqring are in the back half of the tub and the drum is not!  WHAT?  Pretty much told me I was crap outta luck. 

Here's their loophole:  They want to replace the entire assembly and they can justify having incompetent technicians by replacing more than what is broken.  The part that they want to use to fix the "bad bearing" contains the part which is really broken on my machine, so they consider this an accurate diagnosis.

Here is another nugget which you can do whatever you want with it.  You can call up Shmears and buy a warranty for 1 year on your machine for $104 as long as your machine is in "running" condition.  Get the point?

Let's review:

1) I spent $700 on a "good" machine

2) It broke

3) I spent $65 for a professional to come to my house to misdiagnose it

4) I got sticker shock on a replacement part

5) I was rejected immediately because I am mechanically inclined

6) Got my sticker shock reinforced

7) Waited 3 weeks for a guy to refuse work on a "Kenmore"

8) Got rejected by Frigidaire (Kenshmore branded product)

9) Got blatantly lied to about what a bearing actually is and where its located

10) Bought bearings for $38 and replaced them (exactly as diagnosed by Shmears)

11) Put the machine back together.  Machine is running.

12) Bought insurance, just in case something else goes wrong.  I've got a hunch that my spider arms are the next to go.  They didn't look good, but the machine is "running" (and besides, Shmears insists that they are not my problem)

13) Made a pact to never buy anything from Shmears and do my best to encourage others to follow my lead...It doesn't look good for me shopping at K-Fart either!

14)  Alienated the wife because I had a wshing machine torn apart in my kitchen for 2 months. Can I sue Shmears for their role in my lack of conjugation OR will they consider the 5cre#ing I got from them as conjugation?!



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 Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 07:13 am
   
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joef56
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Oh wise ones - I need advice fixing my Kenmore machine.  First I need to compliment Repairclinic.  I ordered the entire tub assembly since I knew I had a bearing problem and with my luck, I would also have the spider arm problem (now or very soon) and the entire assembly is more cost effective for that case.  It turns out that DHL LOST the contents of the box, but within a day or two, a replacement was shipped and is now here and looks in good shape (but with a badly mashed box).  Replacing the lost shipment that quickly deserves Kudos for customer service.

My questions.  I have successfully taken the old assembly out with the advice found on this site (I would not have attempted this without the information on this site).  Since I am moving the fill tube on the top of the assembly from the old tub to the new tub I need suggestions for what to use for sealing the tube to the tub so it does not leak???    The same for the the front boot since I do not have the replacement kit with the "official" sealant. 

Thanks to all who guide us grasshoppers.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 03:04 pm
   
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AccApp
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For the top hose I use whatever RTV silicone I have open, it is not a critical seal. The front boot where it contacts the front tub does not require sealant. I use super glue where it meets the front of the cabinet, you don't need to run a full bead all the way around, just a dot every 45°.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 21st, 2006 03:50 am
   
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Michelle
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aardvark1 wrote: Time to discuss the Reality Side of Shmears:

Michelle, you are in for the same drill which I am going through.  If you read my earlier post, you'll be up to speed.  Let me give you an update.   I went to the appliance parts store next to my shop and he gave me a high price, but seemingly good advice at the time.  That drum has a 25 year warranty on it, and I should contact a Frigidaire repair man; even gave me a name.  I called and spoke with a "nice" lady who I explained my problem to and when I got to the part where I told her that I had taken the washer apart...she wanted nothing to do with it and rapidly ended the call.  I went to another regional parts store chain.  They gave me a high price too and another name.  I called this guy and it took 3 follow up calls to him and 3 weeks before he got back to me.  I was willing to pay him for him time to get me a drum...  When he heard it was Kenshmore, he wanted nothing to do with it.  I wrote Frigidaire (who e-mailed me promptly within 2 hours, even on an early Saturday morning), informing me that Shmears now owns the whole shooting match, machine warranty, etc.  I contacted Shmears (again).  They informed me that  the drum only has a 1 year warranty (even though the frigidaire one has 25 years).  The technician, whom I paid $65 to in order to MISDIAGNOSE the problem stated that I have bad bearings.  Well, when I took the machine apart, I saw broken spider arms.  They insisted that it was a "Code 23" (or whatever their code is for bad bearings).  This "gentleman" insisted that the bearings are part of the drum; yet for some reason I wasn't seeing this considering that the beaqring are in the back half of the tub and the drum is not!  WHAT?  Pretty much told me I was crap outta luck. 

Here's their loophole:  They want to replace the entire assembly and they can justify having incompetent technicians by replacing more than what is broken.  The part that they want to use to fix the "bad bearing" contains the part which is really broken on my machine, so they consider this an accurate diagnosis.

Here is another nugget which you can do whatever you want with it.  You can call up Shmears and buy a warranty for 1 year on your machine for $104 as long as your machine is in "running" condition.  Get the point?

Let's review:

1) I spent $700 on a "good" machine

2) It broke

3) I spent $65 for a professional to come to my house to misdiagnose it

4) I got sticker shock on a replacement part

5) I was rejected immediately because I am mechanically inclined

6) Got my sticker shock reinforced

7) Waited 3 weeks for a guy to refuse work on a "Kenmore"

8) Got rejected by Frigidaire (Kenshmore branded product)

9) Got blatantly lied to about what a bearing actually is and where its located

10) Bought bearings for $38 and replaced them (exactly as diagnosed by Shmears)

11) Put the machine back together.  Machine is running.

12) Bought insurance, just in case something else goes wrong.  I've got a hunch that my spider arms are the next to go.  They didn't look good, but the machine is "running" (and besides, Shmears insists that they are not my problem)

13) Made a pact to never buy anything from Shmears and do my best to encourage others to follow my lead...It doesn't look good for me shopping at K-Fart either!

14)  Alienated the wife because I had a wshing machine torn apart in my kitchen for 2 months. Can I sue Shmears for their role in my lack of conjugation OR will they consider the 5cre#ing I got from them as conjugation?!
Yes this is exactly what I have done.  My machine is still operating and I have scheduled an annual maintainence inspection, which will be done as soon as I finish painting the laundry laundry room.  Figured I might as well since I had everything pulled away from the walls.  I also scheduled for our refrigerator since the ice dispenser is exactly happy right now either.  I update when I know more. 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 02:02 am
   
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trseven
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Okay, I have the same problem, shot inner bearing.  I have it apart and I'm lucky to have a new design drum (bolted on).  Bought new bearings and picked up a seal at the same time locally.  My question is on the bearing seal, the old one I pulled off was a 2 piece seal with white grease sandwitched between them.  The new seal I bought is single without grease.  I still need to order shocks and a seal for the 2 halves of the outer tub, do they sell the old style seal? 

Thanks!

Gerry

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 Posted: Thu Oct 26th, 2006 06:38 pm
   
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mattbyrne
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I have a Frigidaire FWTR647GHS1 front loader bought in Feb of 2001. The tub started banging loudly while in the final spin. I haven't removed the back yet so I haven't been able to look at the pulley, bearings or other suggestions on here.

I took a look at Frigidaire's site and found this (see below) under the warranty. Does this mean that the pulley would be covered?

Also I am not an appliance repair man, but I usually like to try to fix things myself. Any suggestions as to which of the possible repairs for this are reasonable for someone that is handy but has no experience with appliance repair? I just don't want to start taking things apart and find out that I'm in over my head and can't get it back together, or possibly cause more damage.

Thanks very much for the help.

Matt

LIMITED 2nd-25th YEAR

WARRANTY

From Date of Purchase

Replacement part for the motor, driven pulley or motor controller

which prove to be defective.

Replacement part for an inner wash basket that breaks due to a defect in materials or

workmanship. (Excludes Alaska)

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