- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Printer Friendly
Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes  Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed Nov 30th, 2005 08:02 pm
   
41st Post
amstel
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 10
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Well, I got the pulley on as tight as I can, but there is still a little play on the whole drum/pully assy. I closed it back up and ran it. It's still a bit too shaky during the fnial spin, even on "Normal" speed. It's nothing like it was when the spider on the old drum broke, but it's much louder and shakier than it was before the break.

The only thing I can think of is that there's somthing wrong with this new kit. Specifically, maybe the post the pulley attaches to is very slightly bent. I would imagine that could cause these symptons (fine during tumbles, shaky at high spin). I don't know how to check for this, though. Also, will aplliance clinic take it back and send me a new one if there's no glaring defect?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Thu Dec 1st, 2005 09:16 am
   
42nd Post
amstel
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 10
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Any other suggestions, samurai? I'm thinking I'm going to have to send the assy back to repairclinc and order another. I don't know if I should just do it as a seperate return and new order or if I should call and explain it. I don't know for certain this one's defective but I might as well try another one. If it is defective, they would cover the shipping too, I assume. The box it came it was a little beat up, that could be a sign of it having gotten knocked around a bit too.

Also, it's a bit of a beast to ship. I wonder if I could ship it back to the them via DHL when they drop off the new one.

This sucks, I really don't want to pull this sucker out and put another in.

Back To Top  

 Posted: Thu Dec 1st, 2005 09:20 pm
   
43rd Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
Hey man, sorry to hear about the trouble and I know how frustrating it can be, especially when you're this close to victory. Returning the part is not problem, RepairClinic has the most generous return policy anywhere. The real problem that still remains, however, is determining with certainty the true source of the vibration. My opinion is that it's unlikely that the pulley assembly could have gotten bent in shipping just enough to throw the machine out of whack. For it to affect the balance, it would have to be visibly bent. This is a belt-drive machine-- the belt itself can, and does, absorb minor imbalances from the tub.

I think you were on the right track with the cement weights. In fact, I recall a while back that our washer (same as yours) started making this freaky vibrating noise during spin. Turns out that a couple of the bolts for the counter weights (the right hand one) had worked themselves loose. Re-tightened all and good to go. Focus on that area.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Thu Dec 1st, 2005 09:39 pm
   
44th Post
amstel
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 10
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, although the pully seems very slightly bent (wobbles a little if set flat on the floor), my concern was more that the post the pulley bolts onto could be bent. The other concern was the slight movement (front to back) of the pully/drum assy once the pully is attached.

I will look into the weights further before sending this back. Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight? There is the one that goes above the pully on the back and the large black covered one that goes all the way around the front. Do you know of any way these can be put on in an incorrect position that might cause it to be off balance?

I will probably not get to work on this anymore until Sunday. If you think of anything else by then, please pass it on!

Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Dec 2nd, 2005 10:07 pm
   
45th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
amstel wrote:
Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight?
Just behind the front panel are two sets of weights, a pair on the right-hand side and another pair on the left-hand side. Is easy, da?



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Sat Dec 3rd, 2005 09:06 pm
   
46th Post
makohund
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Sat Dec 3rd, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 2
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
I've got a 417.42042100 that appears to have a similar problem.

Out of the blue about a week ago there was a loud banging noise during the final spin. I unloaded the clothes and checked out how it did while empty... same thing. (Not as loud, but still there.) We quit using it till I could check it out...

I pulled the front and back panels off and put it into that full spin, so I could see what may/may not be going on... nothing obviously out of whack or banging against anything else. No leaks. (Yeah, I hooked the water back up to it too.)

I shut it off, unplugged, and started wiggling things that needed wiggling... like that big pulley on the back. At first it was fine. But then it loosened up a bit and there was a bit of front to back play in it, which would suggest the bearing everyone is talking about here. It is front to back play only, no side to side. There is no gunk leakage around where the bearing would be (like some of you are talking about), and nothing has gotten on any clothes yet.

So it sounds like that bearing is maybe just starting to go bad, eh?

I seem to have 3 options here...

1. Replace the bearing myself for $40
2. Replace the rear outer tub assembly myself for about $150 (priced at repairclinic.com)
3. Have Sears come out and do anything that needs doing for about $190


The prospect of pulling it all apart, knocking a stubborn bearing out, and replacing it for about $40 doesn't bug me at all. Sounds fun to me, even. I'm just concerned about some of the other potential problems mentioned... broken spiders, rusted shaft, etc. Could I expect any of that stuff, having caught the problem fairly early as best I can tell? Heck, I don't even know what this spider thing is, though I have some guesses. :P

Between 2 and 3... for amount of work it takes to pull this off, I'd just as soon go with 3.

So I'm debating between 1 and 3.

For those thinking my description of 3 sounds nuts, when I called them up asking questions and saying I was pretty sure I needed a semi-major repair job they gave me the option of an "all parts/labor/up to complete replacement" 1 yr extended warranty for $190. And that it would cover a repair visit this week.

I'd just as soon spend $40 and tinker a bit than $190, but if I'm gonna find other major problems inside the outer tub that I can't see without pulling it apart... maybe better to go for $190?

With all that in mind, anyone have any reccomendations between those options?

Thanks! :cool:

Back To Top  

 Posted: Sat Dec 3rd, 2005 11:14 pm
   
47th Post
amstel
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 10
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
If you're confident Sear will fix it for $190, I'd go with that. I've spent $200+ already but still have a problem (see previous posts).

One thing I'd like to know is how much play do you have back and forth when you push/pull the pulley? Also, from anyone who has a similar model which is working fine, is there any play on your tub/pulley assembly? You could check this without taking off any covers by reaching inside your tub and, holding the 2 of those ridge things that protrude in the tub to knock the clothes around, and see if the whole tub can move front to back at all. It would be a big help to me to know if this is "normal" so I don't concentrate on that issue while troubleshooting.

Back To Top    

 Posted: Mon Dec 5th, 2005 07:46 am
   
48th Post
makohund
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Sat Dec 3rd, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 2
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Without rechecking or measuring, I'd say the play is about 1/8 inch or so. Just enough to enable me to push it in and and out and get a light "clunk" noise at each stop.

Back To Top  

 Posted: Mon Dec 5th, 2005 03:14 pm
   
49th Post
amstel
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 10
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
1/8" or so is about the same play that I have, so maybe that's normal. Would still like to hear from someone who has a perfectly running machine to see if they confirm thiers is the same.

I think I made some progress with mine. As suggested by the Samurai, I rechecked the weights. I loosened all the bolts and pushed the weights in as far as they'd go, and I did find the part near the front top was not seated completely. I had to push it in about 1/4-1/2". Retightned all the bolts and let it run. I did 3 loads with it so far. The 1st was a small load on normal spin, that seemed much, much smoother. Then I tried a med size load, then a big load of jeans, both on fast spin. During the final spin of the larger load, it was still a little louder than I thought it should be, but there really wasn't much shaking of the body of the machine. I still had the top cover off, so maybe that's why it seems louder.

I'll run it a few more times before deciding for sure if this repair can officially be called "complete". I will update again then.

Thanks again for all the help!

Back To Top    

 Posted: Mon Dec 5th, 2005 03:21 pm
   
50th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
You probably have a slight bit more re-seating to do on those balance weights to get all the ripples out. Play with that some more, you'll get it.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Tue Dec 27th, 2005 10:32 pm
   
51st Post
siriusdog
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Tue Dec 27th, 2005
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 1
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
I have a Frigidaire FWT449GFS1 Front load Washer built in 1999. I live in Canada. Two of the spider arms are completely broken. I'm not sure about the bearing, but after all the work of taking it apart, I'm reluctant to reassemble it without changing the bearings. Does anyone know if the complete assembly, with the front and back tub with bearing and SS basket and arm will fit my machine? And is the part available to Canada?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Wed Dec 28th, 2005 10:33 pm
   
52nd Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
I refer you to the 8th Law of Appliance Repair.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

You have chosen to ignore ccadwellx. click Here to view this post

You have chosen to ignore ccadwellxx. click Here to view this post

 Posted: Fri Dec 30th, 2005 01:18 am
   
55th Post
ccadwellx
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Dec 29th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 6
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
One more question...the drive belt has 6 channels, and the motor shaft does as well, so I see how the belt stays on the shaft....but my pulley is smooth - no channels - so how does the belt stay on the pulley?  My belt had fallen off, and it looks like it's falling off the pulley to the inside.  Any thoughts on how to keep the belt on the pulley?  This seems like an odd design.

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Dec 30th, 2005 10:04 am
   
56th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
When you bearings got to the point of almost falling apart it let the inner basket drop down putting the pulley out of alignment causing belt to walk right off pulley.

With good bearings your belt will stay in the correct position with no problems.



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Dec 30th, 2005 02:32 pm
   
57th Post
ccadwellx
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Dec 29th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 6
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Thanks, William!   When I pulled (forcibly) the SS basket and shaft out of the old bearings, the bearings did fall apart, so this makes sense.   

Any thoughts on how to get the new rear shell/bearing onto the shaft of the old inner basket?  It doesn't slide on easily.  The shaft isn't completely smooth - it's slightly rough and feels very slightly scored from the old bearings.   Is the shaft still OK?  Can I (should I) force the new shell/bearing onto the shaft? 

Back To Top    

 Posted: Sat Dec 31st, 2005 12:06 am
   
58th Post
ccadwellx
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Dec 29th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 6
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
SUCCESS!   My father brought over some calipers which we used to determine that I had deformed the top of the shaft when I used a hammer and dowel to get the old shaft out of the old shell casing.  With a metal file, some emery paper, and a lot of patience, we were able to (slowly) get the shaft head back into spec so that the new shell/bearings slipped onto the old shaft sweetly.    Then everything else went back together smoothly.

This was a big job - it took me (with help from my dad) about 6 hours to disassemble the machine and reassemble with the new shell/casing, but it's so nice to see a spin cycle without hearing that deafening roar.

I personally think that this design is flawed, given that so many people have written on many internet sites about bearing problems.  My machine was only four years old when the bearings went out.  Unfortunately I have TWO of these machines, since I bought the same model for my vacation home.  That's why I decided to put the time into understanding how it works and being able to fix it.  Hopefully my other machine won't have bearing problems anytime soon.

Well, my husband is amazed that I attempted this, and even more surprised that I succeeded.   Thanks so much to all of you for writing about your past experiences with repairing this machine.  It was valuable information.   And some advice for others:

-  these resources were invaluable:  a laptop that I kept nearby with a blowup diagram of the inner tub that I referred to at least a hundred times, found at http://www3.sears.com/  (enter your washing machine model number and choose the view diagram option), and step-by-step instructions that I printed out and which guided me through the whole process http://www.zenzoidman.com/documents/RearBearingV6.pdf

-  put all your screws/fastener groups into individual baggies and label them.  That saved me lots of time when reassembling things.

-  label both sides of connection points that aren't intuitive - the small diameter hose that attaches to the water level gauge is a good case in point - I'm so glad I labeled both sides when I disconnected the tube from the red plastic thing hanging off the top of the washing machine - I think I'd still be looking for where that connected to.  Most connections, though, are pretty intuitive.

-  If the inner basket won't come out of the shell because the bearings are shot, DON'T pound too hard on the shaft (unless you have calipers, a metal file, emery cloth and a lot of time to do repair work).  Use Liquid Wrench, douse it, and let it sit for awhile.  After an hour, I was able to remove the old basket with much less force.  I used a 1-inch dowel (about 5" long) to punch out the shaft from the old casing.

Good luck and many happy repairs!

Last edited on Sat Dec 31st, 2005 12:15 am by

Back To Top  

 Posted: Mon Jan 2nd, 2006 06:35 am
   
59th Post
fixnbreak
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Mon Jan 2nd, 2006
Location:  
Posts: 1
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Stupid question.  I am at the end of reassembling and cannot get the belt back onto the motor and pulley.  Any tips?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Mon Jan 2nd, 2006 09:49 am
   
60th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
The belt is a tight fit, just put on the motor pulley then start it around the big main pulley and slowly turn while holding the belt in position as it rides up and around the big pulley, it will pull right up into position.



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top  

Current time is 08:14 pm Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  Next Page Last Page    
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.1763 seconds (35% database + 65% PHP). 30 queries executed.

Web Analytics