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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune Front Load Washer Troubleshooting

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Maytag Neptune Front Load Washer Troubleshooting  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Jul 8th, 2006 11:42 pm
   
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ggadwa
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Frustrated Home repair effort. Maytag told me if the Washer was not completing the Washer Cycles the Control Board had failed. I ordered up and installed a Machine Contol Board..............No change the Maytag Neptune Front Loader still completely STOPS at each RINSE CYCLE. Pushing the START BUTTON restarts the machine. So I can still wash laundry but must push the START BUTTON at every RINSE CYCLE. Doesn't matter which WASH chosen same problem on any WASH Cycle....

I have to send back the MACHINE CONTROL BOARD now......but what is the problem????

Is the Timer failing OR????????

HELP appreciated!!!!!

GARY

Stanley IDAHO

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 Posted: Sun Jul 9th, 2006 12:28 am
   
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Trying to help
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The unit has approximately 5 minutes to fill itself on each fill. The rinses are straight cold fills. Start the unit on the #2 rinse and look at the water fill trough the fabric and bleach area's. You will probably see that it is trickling in. Make sure the water is on full, and clean the screens at the inlet hose and valve. They are probably clogged with sediment. 



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 Posted: Sun Jul 9th, 2006 01:08 am
   
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ggadwa
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Sublime Master of Appliantology.......

You are my hero.....Why such a simple fix!?!???!!?!

It worked...... the Cold Water Screen was slightly clogged with water line scale or pipe rust.....Cleaned both Screens and the NEPTUNE WORKS FINE AGAIN!!!!!

Now why didn't I think of that????


Again Thanks,

GARY

Stanley, Idaho

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 Posted: Sat Sep 23rd, 2006 07:29 pm
   
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neptunequeen
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Please help???

We are having the same problem.  How do you clean the inlet screens?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Jen

 

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 Posted: Sat Sep 23rd, 2006 08:10 pm
   
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ratherbfishin



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remove the hoses at the back of machine and take a q- tip and GENTLY clean the screens at the rear of the inlet valve.  do not remove or enlarge the holes in the screens or you might cause it to flood your house!  also maytag used hose inlet screens with rubber washers.  check for water flow with hoses disconected from washer. 



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 Posted: Sun Sep 24th, 2006 04:32 am
   
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neptunequeen
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Thank you very much for the help.  We tried that but it's still not working. 

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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 07:13 pm
   
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Keinokuorma
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Read this topic:

http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=9973&forum_id=2&jump_to=56313

It covers some possible moves that may rectify your problem.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 1st, 2006 02:27 pm
   
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Trying to help
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You stated you tried to clean the screens but that did not help. Is the unit filling at the rinses? Try it on hot water wash, look at that fill, then turn it to the second rinse and compare the water flows. Is the rinse noticeably slower? Do you have a meter that we can ohm the water level circuit to see if it is satisfied when the unit shuts off? Also so we check board outlet voltages if necessary?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 2nd, 2006 04:08 pm
   
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neptunequeen
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Thanks so much.  The problem is fixed.  We replaced the control board and wax motor.   This is a great website.  Very helpful.....thanks again.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 2nd, 2006 06:11 pm
   
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Keinokuorma
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Was there a visible problem on the board? As you said you changed the wax motor and board, I bet this was the door locking problem with two parts possibly burning out on the board. If they weren't, it is a good idea to save the old board, as if the new board for some reason pops, you may have an easily fixable spare at your hands. Ain't the cheapest part to acquire, and the repair, if needed, doesn't cost a lot.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2006 06:05 pm
   
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neptunequeen
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My husband did a test with a meter to see if the control board was bad and his reading said it was bad so we replaced it along with the wax motor as recommended.  We did save the old control board.  The washer was working great again up until today.  This morning we have a whole new problem......I started a load on cold/cold, delicate cycle and started the wash...it quickly went through the whole cycle in about 10 minutes or so and ended up on the delay cycle instead of stopping at off.  What is going on?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2006 06:42 pm
   
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I believe you will find your husband might of miss-wired the board on the line relay side. Doing this will blow the board causing it to power the timer motor all the time instead of pulsing it. Sometimes you will get a visibly burnt resistor, other times not. On the relay of the board you will have a Black and Gray wire. Black should go to Common, Gray to Normally Open.   



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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2006 06:53 pm
   
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neptunequeen
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uh ohhh, that doesn't sound good.  I just spoke with him at work and he said he took it off wire by wire and replaced it so he's not sure how the wiring could have gotten messed up.  Was he supposed to do something to the new board itself before installing it.  What is the line relaying side?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:09 am
   
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neptunequeen
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My husband checked the relay of the board and the black and grey wires were misplaced as you said they might be.  Q3 is blown out of our new control board.  Does this mean that the new control board is shot or is there a way to fix it.  We have the old control board and Q3 is fine on that one. 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:23 am
   
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Keinokuorma
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One choice (but not recommended) is to move the good Q3 to the other board, the other, probably safer way is to get a new Q3 and replace the busted component. These triacs can't cost a lot, if I recall it right the component is equal to Q6. Recommended replacement is NTE5657, it's a 600V part, that replaces the 400V part, should be capable of taking some more abuse. Radio Shack or similar shops should carry these parts. Oh, related to this triac failing, there may be a failed resistor on the board now too. Check to be sure and acquire a replacement at the same time if you need it.

Last edited on Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:29 am by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:31 am
   
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neptunequeen
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I have a spare Q6 to put in,will this work for my Q3?.Also is there any tricks or inside info that would make the resister swap easier?What else besides my soldering gun and solder will I need?Thanks

Last edited on Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:32 am by neptunequeen

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 01:46 am
   
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Keinokuorma
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Look if you can read the markings on the old Q6 and Q3... if they are the same, the same replacement should be fine too.

So you have located a bad resistor too? Resistor replacement is normally a piece of cake, unless the board is badly scorched around the solder holes and the traces are coming off. The resistors are marked with color stripes, decoding of the most common ones is easy with a table that can even be memorized.

BLK=0, BRN=1, RED=2, ORN=3, YEL=4, GRN=5, BLU=6, VIOL=7, GRY=8, WHT=9

4 stripe system: First two stripes for the first numbers, third for amount of zeroes, fourth for tolerance.


5 stripes: First 3 for numbers, fourth for zeroes, fifth for tolerance.

For tolerance markings, GOLD=5%, SILV=10%, WHT=20%, BRN=1%, RED=2%

There are exceptions to the third/fourth stripe analogy, but most resistors in common applications can be decoded by this table.

You can replace with similar Ohm rating, same or higher Watt rating, and same or closer tolerance. Most resistors on the board look like 0,2 Watt and 5% tolerance. If putting in a higher wattage part, be sure that the legs still fit through the holes. Sometimes I carefully drill larger holes for a tougher part to fit. Drilling is best done with a miniature drill machine from the solder side.

Some care should be taken when soldering semiconductors: Don't apply more heat than needed for the solder to run. Don't solder all the legs in a row, allow a cooling period. Use pliers to hold the component leg at the component side when soldering it. This will take some heat stress off the component.

Also it is a good idea to ground yourself and the solder iron to a common point if possible. There are wrist straps for that purpose, these have about a 1 Megaohm resistor between you and the ground point. That is there to keep you fron electrocuting yourself if you came into contact with live voltage, and also it will pass static discharge softly, without the prickly feeling.


Last edited on Fri Oct 6th, 2006 02:07 am by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 02:14 am
   
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neptunequeen
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KEINO,thanks for the help,I was wrong by calling it a resistor,because it doesn't have the strips that you have described.It's black in color and it is shaped kind of like a half moon.It has three legs that have to be soldered.To remove old black half moon shaped thing,just heat up old solder spots on back?And it looks like all I need is a little solder for new connection?Thanks again.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 10:04 am
   
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Here's a few places that will help in the repairs of your board.

http://members.shaw.ca/gavb/
http://www.goetjen.com/maytag.htm
http://www.mlittle.com/appliance/neptune/



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2006 10:28 pm
   
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Joe Fixit
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I had an MHW4000AWW with exactly the same problem (when it got to rinse, drum would agitate, then "on" light would go off & then door lock light off). In reading through these forums, I cleaned, then replaced the water inlet valve and the timer, but to no avail, I did not fix the problem. I then went on the assumption that the problem was the control board, yet I took it a little further. In looking at the diagram that was in the back panel of the washing machine, I noticed that the cold valve control came from J7 pin 2. I traced the etch back to a triac (Q9 - Philips p/n MAC 97A6). When I metered across 2 pins (middle and right) I got a reading of 40.2 ohms. I replaced this triac with an equivalent NTE5656 triac and viola... my problem is now fixed! :D

This fix in total cost me $1.96 (although I did pay for a water inlet valve and timer - Total +$140.00):(.

I unlike others, have loved this machine as it is now going on 7 years. I hope this helps others having a similar problem

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