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Maytag MAH5500BWW Won't Spin - Locked Rotor Error

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Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 06:00 pm

21^st Post

Ostrom
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Pull the middle connector off the motor control board, and use it to check the resitance of the motor windings. You should get about 200Ω across the grey and grey/stripe wires.

Attachment: Neptune Ohming Windings.jpg (Downloaded 93 times)

Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 06:09 pm

22^nd Post

Ostrom
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You should get about 7Ω across any pair of the black and white wires (maybe a brown one there). Here is a photo that shows the three measurements.

Attachment: Neptune Ohming Windings 1.jpg (Downloaded 67 times)

Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 08:31 pm

23^rd Post

stumpowitz

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Ostrom wrote: Sensei,

This part is on backorder, but they do have the conversion kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=949491. Is there any reason not to but the whole kit? (The price is exactly the same).

Ostrom,

You can order the kit, but need only the board. Very simple compared to the whole kit. Good Luck!

-Stumpowitz

Last edited on Sun Jun 18th, 2006 06:27 pm by

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Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 08:39 pm

24^th Post

Ostrom
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Thanks for all the help.

Andy

Posted: Fri Jun 16th, 2006 08:36 pm

25^th Post

Ostrom
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I ordered the board yesterday, it just arrived, and in 5 minutes has solved the problem.

Domo arigato.

Last edited on Fri Jun 16th, 2006 08:36 pm by Ostrom

Posted: Sun Jun 18th, 2006 06:29 pm

26^th Post

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Domo for the happy ending! :dude:

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Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 07:53 pm

27^th Post

jukkaTheFinn
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stumpowitz wrote:
Ostrom wrote: Sensei,

This part is on backorder, but they do have the conversion kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=949491. Is there any reason not to but the whole kit? (The price is exactly the same).

Ostrom,

You can order the kit, but need only the board. Very simple compared to the whole kit. Good Luck!

-Stumpowitz

Does the above board work directly with the original motor that came with MAH5500BWW, or will it only work with the motor that comes with the kit?

I have 67786665ZF serialed (notice the mark of the beast in the serialnumber itself :yikes:

) Neptune that fried it's motor control...it's charred black with number of components being vaporised to the nether world. My motor seems to be in good working order tho, when I tested it through OHMing.

I guess my second question is that if I need to replace the motor as well, what is the best way to gain access. As far as I can see the best way might be to lie the unit down to it's side and take off the bottom...

Thanks,

-jukka

Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 01:38 am

28^th Post

Ace Barker
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I am haveing the same problem with the LR Display. My washer just stop. Full of water. Main display went out. I bought the new display. Installed. Powered up. At least I can run the diagnostics.

Anyway I am going to check the windings but I guess I will find the same problem tha the motor control board is gone.

Anything else I should check when The main machine control board went out? I have also read where I should consider a surge protector.

Thanks!

Ace...

Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 05:30 am

29^th Post

That Guy

Joined:	Wed Jan 17th, 2007
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Don't lay it on its side and try and take the bottom off. The motor bolt comes out through the cover on the back and the front opens up so you can get to the motor control board and pull the motor out through the front opening.

To remove the front. Take out the four screws around the door (two on the left, two on the right), remove the door and then the "u" shaped front panel. It just pulls forward at the top and then is hinged at the bottom. You can see the motor control board on the lower left.

Don't try and run the a new style board with an old motor or an old board with a new style motor. They are not compatible.

Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 12:21 pm

30^th Post

Ace Barker
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Thanks for all the help and advice.

I pulled the front off with no problems. The board is burned and shorted in different areas. I ordered the conversion board and motor last night.

Since I have replaced the main control board, the motor and motor control(when it comes in), it appears to be pretty much a plug and play, is there anything else I should check out while it's apart?

I don't believe this model has the wax motor that I read about on many other Maytags. Would anything in the door lock switch or dorr lock solenoid that could have caused the problem?

In addition I read somewhere the main controller board is prone to have issues with a power surge. I am asssuming that a power surge protector may help that?

I guess this washer will always have the small amount of water left in the tub after replacing this motor and control board? Is there a newer pump. I was hoping after all of this repair work to get the stinky water out completely so my clothes don't have a funky smell from time to time. I can make sure there is nothing stopping the pump while I have it apart.

Thanks for the reply and help.

Ace...

Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 12:33 pm

31^st Post

That Guy

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I don't think the door lock had anything to do with it. If you had one of the 3300s then yes, but luckily you don't.

Maytags have problems with stinky water. My solution is a little clorox when I wash towels or underwear. Just a couple of table spoons full diluted in water and it will kill almost anything.

The new motor control board has its own surge protection, but I would go ahead and put a really good surge suppressor on the wall then plug the washer into it.

Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 12:41 pm

32^nd Post

Ace Barker
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I will do the bleach thing a little more with the whites and also add that surge protector.

I have heard of folks leaving the door cracked as well to prevent as much mold on the seal. I have found that a little bleach helps keep that under control.

I bought this washer with the intent of it lasting more than four years with $400 worth of parts and my time.

Hopefully these repairs will last a bit longer.

I am asuuming the conversion motor and control is to stop some of these problems?

Hey thanks for the quick responses. The wife is ready for this to be fixed. Once it's back working we may kill it with the backed up laundry. :-)

Ace...

Last edited on Thu Jan 18th, 2007 12:42 pm by Ace Barker

Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2007 08:28 pm

33^rd Post

Ace Barker
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Thanks That Guy!

I replaced the Main Control Board and the Motor Control and motor (Conversion kit in the MAH5500BWW. Followed your instructions and the instructions with the repair parts and it's back alive after about 10 days. Easy repair and ya'lls instructions and pictures were very clear and helpful.

You folks are great!

Ace Barker

Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 03:31 pm

34^th Post

vulpine
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I have a 2005 Maytag neptune that will not spin. Repair guy came out and said it was the door lock. It was not, then he came and looked at somethign else dont know what. $300 later it still does not work. I am in Bermuda and service is poor. I have looked at the top control board and that does not look like the ones with the Resistor problem. I suspect the motor control board (I have seen LR on display) The motor control board I have is Maytag 6 2726410 also 544 330-05 and also 304091204 on it.

Can I just replace this board or do I need motor as well. Serial number of washer is (S) B4271607GA Model (P) MAH5500BWW. I have both boards out and can photograph if mecessary. I have given up with local repair people.

Attachment: Motor Board.JPG (Downloaded 85 times)

Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 03:32 pm

35^th Post

vulpine
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Here is the top control board.

Attachment: control board.JPG (Downloaded 83 times)

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