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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MAH5500BWW Won't Spin - Locked Rotor Error
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MAH5500BWW Won't Spin - Locked Rotor Error |
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| Maytag MAH5500BWW Won't Spin - Locked Rotor Error | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 10th, 2006 08:40 pm |
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1st Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sensei, I seek your wisdom and knowledge. The machine spawed by devilry, known as MAH5500BWW will not execute its required function. When this occurred previously, the devil's disciple visited and installed new devilry into the dark recesses, including motor and controller and control board. Thus, no parts match any picutres or descriptions on this site. Seeking to deplete my meager wealth this infernal device once again refuses to spin, and provides "lr," "locked rotor" error on LEDs. All internal wire connections have been checked and are secure. There are no obviously burnt compnents. The door locks and the door locked light comes on. When devil device is coerced into "service mode" and "spin test" is engaged the basket rotates slowly and intermittently, but does not ever spin. Your wisdom is appreciated before the devilry is given as an offering to the god of the dump. Domo arigato. Last edited on Sat Jun 10th, 2006 08:40 pm by Ostrom |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 02:17 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Ostrom wrote:installed new devilry into the dark recesses, including motor and controller and control board. Thus, no parts match any picutres or descriptions on this site. Not sure how this can be true... unless non-OEM parts were used in the repair. Do you know whether or not genuine Maytag parts were used?
____________________ For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://apprentice.applianceguru.com  |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 03:07 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Do you have a serial number of the unit?
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| Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 01:00 am |
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4th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Master, Devil's desciple was dispatched directly from underworld and came wearing the mark of the devil on his chest. The serial # of infernal device is S71787623ZK. Magical rendering of offending devices is attached... Grasshopper Attachment: maytag washer-a.jpg (Downloaded 100 times)
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| Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 06:32 pm |
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5th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Can anyone help? Today and Thursday are Dump Days...
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| Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 09:44 pm |
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6th Post |
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stumpowitz Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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When "devil's diciple" replaced parts, was one the motor conversion kit Maytag part 12002039? If not, this is what you're looking for.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 09:49 pm |
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7th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yes, conversion kit was installed. Thus, my motor control board seems to be different from those shown on the site. And I do not know where to start troubleshooting. Domo arigato
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| Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 10:15 pm |
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8th Post |
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stumpowitz Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Pun into "quick spin" in service mode. What happens? If nothing ck for 120vac between white and black at lower board. Also, ck at red and blue. Do yourself a favor and inspect the plug on the motor for broken/bent plug or terminals. If power to motor control and no motor movement new board is part# 22004046. I have never seen it (and not sure if I believe it) but, some have said a loose neutral at the water valve could cause a LR code.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 03:33 am |
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9th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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When I go into quick spin the door locks and the pump comes on. After a few seconds (15?), the drum rotates slowly 3/4 of a turn and then stops. It creeps forward another inch then stops. Then the rotation sequence starts again. It never seems to end. I have 120vac (+/-) at black/white, and red/blue at the board and on both sides of the (filter capacitor?) little grey thing. I have re-seated all the connections at the water valve, both pc boards, and at the motor itself. I can't see the back side of the connector on the motor without pulling it. Any further ideas? Domo
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 03:43 am |
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10th Post |
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stumpowitz Sublime Master of Appliantology
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From the front remove the 5/16" screw with strain relief at the motor harness (the one attached to the motor) to remove the harness from motor to inspect. While this is out you can ohm the windings although I have yet to see this particular motor bad. If all checks good in all likelyhood you're looking at another motor control. If not installed too long ago, Devil's Disciple should have a guarantee on part.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 03:55 am |
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11th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I will do that now. It's been at least a year since the conversion kit was installed (major smokage of prior board). It seems that the conversion kit and the board alone are both the same price. Should I just order another conversion kit and change the motor, too?
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 04:38 am |
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12th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I pulled the strain releif and all the wires appear properly seated in the back side of the connnector. The color coding in my machine does not seem to match the schematic supplied inside the machine. What resistance should I see across the windings? Is the pattern still outside pair, next pair, inner pair? (One wire is green, which I would expect to be a ground??? Domo
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 07:29 pm |
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13th Post |
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stumpowitz Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Ostrom wrote: What resistance should I see across the windings? Is the pattern still outside pair, next pair, inner pair? Pattern should be the same, look for resistance close to the same reading on each winding. I'd be lying if I told you I could remember the resistance. Like I said before, I have yet to see this motor bad. I have however seen a couple (not many mind you) of the new boards fail. I'd be confident with the board alone to rectify the LR code. Good luck!
____________________ Please tell your friends about us! If we helped you we may be able to help them as well! |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 12:54 pm |
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14th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Ohming out this motor is a little different. The old motor you could ohm individual windings, this one you must do two at a time so the resistance will be double. Ignoring the Green and I believe the two gray wires right next to each other, any combination of the remaining 3 should have approximately 6-7 ohms. Since they never published a schematic off the kit installed, I can guess off the wires on the new series above and go with Brown, White & Black. From Gray to Gray you should read 150-200 ohms.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:07 pm |
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15th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks! That was the ticket... I get 176Ω grey to grey, and 7Ω between brown, white, and black. Is it certain I have a bad motor controller board? I'd hate to spend $200+ and find out that it wasn't fixed. Thanks again!
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:43 pm |
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16th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Great troubleshooting thread!  Wish we could get pictures to go with the clear, detailed explanations from Masters Stumpowitz and TTH. Here's the part link for the revised board: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1001059
____________________ For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://apprentice.applianceguru.com |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 04:48 pm |
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17th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sensei, This part is on backorder, but they do have the conversion kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=949491. Is there any reason not to but the whole kit? (The price is exactly the same). I have taken photos, and will add as replies to this thread. Many thanks for your help -- beer fund donation next... Last edited on Sun Jun 18th, 2006 05:28 pm by |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 04:51 pm |
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18th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Here is a picture of the innards of the Maytag Neptune, with the front panel removed. The motor is on the left, and the control board (and plastic case) on right. The plastic cover has been taken off the control board. Attachment: Neptune Innards.jpg (Downloaded 110 times)
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 04:55 pm |
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19th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Here is a closeup of the motor. There is a long 5/16" bolt that holds the connector to the motor, with a nut on the back of the motor. Taking out the bolt will aloow you to check the connections on the back of the plug. Attachment: Neptune Motor.jpg (Downloaded 91 times)
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 04:57 pm |
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20th Post |
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Ostrom Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Here is the motor control board (after the conversion kit has been installed). Check the blue/red and black/white (upper right) for 120v. Attachment: Neptune Motor Control.jpg (Downloaded 115 times)
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