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My kitchen aid washer only agitates me  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 02:30 am
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jeffiepoo
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Pegi --

I am grateful for the advise, but embarrassed to say that (being the ignoramous that I am), I have no idea how to use a multimeter.  I just opened it moments ago from it's plastic packaging.  So when you say " you need to see if you have voltage to the timer between v=Vilot and T=Tan", you might as well speak in swaheli, or greek. 

I am CLUELESS.

At your mercy for more help, or at least tell me that I am a lost cause.

 

Jeff

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 03:39 am
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Pegi
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The fill level switch has three terminals/wires...vilot, tan and pink....with the washer full of water where it should be agitating and the washer plugged in set your meter to at least 120 volts and see if you are getting voltage out of vilot and tan, the terminals on the fill level switch that is marked with V and T, where the vilot and tan wires plug onto....you can remove the wires from the water level switch and test right on the switch or leave the wires on the switch and test where they plug onto the timer...



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 11:20 am
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jeffiepoo
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Okay .... displaying my ignorance here.

I have no idea how my multimeter works.  so your suggestion of 120 volts pegi ... I am clueless.  I have attached a picture of my meter, so I hope you tell me exactly how to set it.  A guy at the hardware store told me that I will probably be checking using the ohm scale (with the omega symbol -- the upside down horse shoe) ... so that's where I started using the 20M setting.

I turned on the washer, filled it to the small load setting.  When it reached the proper level, it stopped filling.  I then unplugged the violet and tan wires from the fill level switch, and with my multimeter set at 20M on the OHM scale, i touched the violet and tan terminals where the wires has just been attached.  When my points on my meter weren't touching anything, my reading was a 1.  When I touched those terminals where the wires just had been, the numbers moved around all over, and then settled on something in the area of .5 .   Incidently, when I unplugged the violet and pink wires, the timer seemed to stop.  Not sure what that means.

Am I am close to doing what I should be doing? 

 

Attachment: 100_0241.jpg (Downloaded 8 times)

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 04:22 pm
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Pegi
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See at the top right at about the 1-2 o'clock position where is says V AC, this should be set at the lowest setting looks to say 250V? Cannot see the numbers clearly. Then see if you get a voltage reading...if you were testing this live on the ohm's scale surprised you did not melt your meter down....you can check for ohms with the machine unplugged across the same terminals, see if the needle moves to the right, would indicate the fill level switch was good, bad if the needle does not move...set the meter on X1 or X10, just want to see if it is feeding the timer.....if the timer stopped working when the wires were removed this might indicate the fill level switch is good and you have a timer or wire harness problem.



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 04:59 pm
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jeffiepoo
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Pegi ...

I just did it.   I set the VAC to 200 (that was the lowest setting), the other setting was 700.

When I touched the terminals on the switch, nothing happened, but when I touched the wires that come from  ... the big cluster of wires, my digital read out came to about 123 (fluxuated b/n 122.5, and 123.5).

 

So what's that mean?

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 05:36 pm
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Pegi
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I would believe you should have about 120 volts between the V and T terminals, I believe the wiring diagram says T=full and P=Empty??  Double check this on the schematic....I am not sure where this wiring harness is you are referring to, are you meaning the wires feeding the fill level switch?  If this is correct sounds like you have voltage to the switch but not back out to the timer??



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 06:15 pm
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jeffiepoo
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When I said "that big cluster of wires" , I meant the ones that go back to the timer.

 

I double checked, and it appears that when I touch my ends of my meter to the tan and violet wire ends (that come from the timer) it reads 123.   Is this what I should have done????      Again, these were the wires that were going to the water level control (small/med/large load).

 

You were right, the diagram does say t full and p empty, right under v, it says  water level switch.  I have no idea about the 120 that you mentioned.  It doesn't say that on ht e diagram at all.

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 06:20 pm
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Pegi
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We want to see if the water level switch is feeding power to the timer, see if there is about 120 volts at the V and T terminals on the fill level switch, this is what would feed the voltage to the timer when the water level switch is satisifed the washer is full and cuts power to the water valve and stops the water from running and lets the timer have power to feed the motor.



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 06:28 pm
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jeffiepoo
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OKay ..???? not sure what to do ... it said 123 ... while the washer was just sitting there, after the fill.

What now?  I did the v and t test, and got 123

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 06:45 pm
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Pegi
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So the fill level switch is good, now need to see if you are getting voltage to the motor from the timer.,..be sure to put the wires back onto the water level switch first...;)



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 06:56 pm
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jeffiepoo
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okay ... so that's good, right?  How do I check the motor?  Do I need to take the whole washer apart, and get to the under belly of this beast?

 

J

 

PS  I already put the wires back

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 07:03 pm
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Pegi
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http://fixitnow.com/2004/05/appliance-tip-of-day-replacing-drive.htm 

this will help take the case off to access the wiring harness....might want to look at your wiring diagram, it will show you which wires come off of the timer to the motor for agitate and spin, could probably unplug the wire harness off of the timer and check for voltage at the terminals of the timer itself to see if it is feeding 120 volts..if so then would have to go further to the plug in block at the motor itself to see if it is something in the wire harness...



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 07:33 pm
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jeffiepoo
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So I tried this, and not sure if this would do the same thing.  Looking at my wiring diagram, I see that my main power wires are white and black. 

So, I detached the wiring harness from the timer.  When I put my meter into the hold (where the timer was plugged in -- are these called points??).  First I put the meter on the holes where the white and black went in.  I got a reading of 124.

When I did the black and tan holes, I only got a .5

When I did the white and tan, I got 0.0. 

That probably means nothing, and I have to take the cabinet apart ... doesn't it?  Last time I did that, i took me an hour to get back together.

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 10:22 pm
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Pegi
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Blue is high speed and orange is low speed, white is common and yellow looks to be start on the schematic...see if you are getting voltage between blue and either white or yellow on normal wash..



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 11:13 pm
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jeffiepoo
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Okay, I will check those, but just to make sure ... are you saying to check them at the wiring harness .. that plugs into the timer?

 

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 11:19 pm
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jeffiepoo
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If, I am supposed to check on the aforementioned wiring harness plug points ... that goes into the timer, here's what I found.

Blue to white = 0

Blue to yellow register.1, but then quickly went to 0.

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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 11:24 pm
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Pegi
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check the pins on the timer with the harness unplugged, want to see if the timer is feeding the wire harness..



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 11:28 pm
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Pegi
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Ok this is with the timer on and set on heavy duty??  and the fill level switch wires plugged back on??  Any one else have some more input before we declare the timer ka-poot??  Assuming you were checking the voltage on the timer plug on pins them selves and not on the harness that plugs onto the timer..

Last edited on Mon May 15th, 2006 11:32 pm by Pegi



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 Posted: Tue May 16th, 2006 12:33 am
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jeffiepoo
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Actually Pegi, I is not with the timer on.  I don't know how I would/could access the wires/points if the timer is plugged in.

Sorry, I am embarrassed again b/c of my ignorance.  Go ahead, shake your head and laugh at me.  I told you that I am totally clueless on using a multimeter.:shock:

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 Posted: Tue May 16th, 2006 02:15 am
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Pegi
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We do not laugh and shake our heads at the ones who try and listen, we give Hell to the ones who think they know it all and will not....let us do this easier, remove the case, plug the harness onto the timer, un-plug the harness from the motor and turn the timer on, let us see if we get voltage thru the same color wires at the wire harness where it would plug onto the motor.....I know, took you an hour to put the case back on, but practice, practice, practice.....;)



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