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dbfact
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Posted: Thu May 12th, 2005 02:48 |
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| Belt broke, and I would like to attempt to restring myself, but am a little unsure if I should attempt. I have the "drawing" (Diagram J) of how its supposed to look, but the idler pulley was hanging from one spring. Looks like it is also supposed to be bolted onto the motor. The photos on Appliantology group are great (but they don't have an Asko). Should I attempt this myself or just call "the guy" now? Thanks for your guidance. Deb Belcore (I consider myself "medium" ability to fix things). Attachment: MVC-010S.JPG (Downloaded 437 times)
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lennartj
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Posted: Sat May 21st, 2005 21:16 |
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| Where did you buy the new belt? I need on too!
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wateka
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Posted: Fri May 27th, 2005 00:06 |
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| It must be the season for ASKO dryer belts to break. Mine broke on my T760, and for $14.13 + 9.99 shipping, ASKO is sending me a new belt (part # 8801267 ). They were also kind enough to fax me belt replacement instructions, which I have attached as a PDF file for the rest of you. To order from ASKO direct, call 800-898-1879 or 972-238-0794 7:30A-4:30P CST. Attachment: ASKO dryer full instructions.pdf (Downloaded 837 times) Last edited on Wed Jun 1st, 2005 18:49 by wateka
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri May 27th, 2005 03:13 |
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Hey, Wateka, mucho domos for the upload!
I had the supreme pleasure of replacing my first ASKO dryer belt two days ago. I was reminded why I always say, "ASKO? Oh NO!" After a couple false starts, I ended up replacing the belt as described in your upload-- woulda saved me about half an hour of scratching my posterior and sniffing my fingers if I had seen that before hand. Stringing the belt on the pulley was straight-forward enough but, DAYYAM NATION! getting to it was like going around my elbow to get to my a**hole! I think ASKO engineers must have a special loathing and contempt for repair people.
Bought the belt from RepairClinic for $22... plus $30 for overnight shipping (the customer didn't care about the money, they just wanted the dayyam thing fixed).
Total time took me almost 1.5 hours, including taking down and restacking the laundry unit.
Nice work on your repair and thanks again for the upload!
 Last edited on Fri May 27th, 2005 03:23 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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wateka
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Posted: Wed Jun 1st, 2005 18:46 |
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| I finished my repair, but one more instruction sheet was included with my belt. See the attachment in my post above for the additional instructions on page three (the bottom of the page is in English). Also note that if you order the part from Asko, the kit includes a new spring for the pulley. The instructions are pretty strongly worded: "The new spring for the tension arm MUST be used." So if you order your part from any other supplier, make sure you are getting a spring as part of the package. The spring Asko sent did NOT match the spring I took out, but it works fine. The spring they sent was slightly stronger and longer. Last edited on Wed Jun 1st, 2005 18:50 by wateka
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dbfact
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Posted: Wed Jun 1st, 2005 22:48 |
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Hi - This is the lady who started the dryer belt post. I got the belt (with the new spring), and got the back off the dryer, but discovered the reason the white "pulley" wheel was just laying there. It is attached to the motor by a pin, and that sheared right in half (what kind of manufacturing is that!). Anyways, I will need a new a motor - the pulley arm is considered a part of the motor, which should be covered under the ASKO 5 year warantee - but I am still going to be stuck with the labor (and this is definately not a job I will attempt - nor will ASKO "let" you via their part warantee - has to be by a service company). They were talking about $172 to replace the belt - so it will be interesting to see what they have to say about this motor+belt! As I know the service guy pretty well (10 years of ASKO products puts you on a first name basis) - I can probably get him to just bill me for whatever time it takes him. If there is any "good" news in this, its that I have my "old" ASKO dryer that I have been using during this time. It was such a lemon that I ended up getting this new one for free (or a greatly reduced price). Now, if it just holds up another week or so.....
PS - Re: the asko instructions - it didn't look like you would have to take the fuse wires off on mine if all that was required was the belt (I slipped it around the front of the drum) - nor would you have to put it face down on the floor, and mine doesn't have a condenser that I am aware of...so the instructions make it sound more complicated that it is (assuming you don't have a broken motor!!).
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Jun 2nd, 2005 04:19 |
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Good info! Thanks again for posting it.
Since I gurarantee all my repairs for one year parts and labor, sounds like I may be going back out on this one on my nickel. 
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zauber1
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Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 00:08 |
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dbfact wrote: ...attached to the motor by a pin, and that sheared right in half (what kind of manufacturing is that!).
Actually, that is not so much of a manufacturing issue. The shear pin can break off when you put wet and heavy clothing in the drum and the drum flexes too much.
I learned (also the hard way) that clothes going into an ASKO dryer ought to be almost dry to begin with. That means using the high speed spin on the WASHER to wring out the most water possible before putting it into the dryer. The dryer is the biggest energy monster in the whole shebang so you want to run it as little as possible. The washer gets the clothes almost dry anyway.
It was nice of ASKO to back up their product under their warranty. If this was some other manufacturer you would have only had a 1 year warranty or so and you'd be left high and dry for the entire bill.
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dbfact
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Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 00:46 |
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Thanks for the info - will watch that for the future! I was surprised to see that after he put the new motor in, he actually did the belt re-stringing by approaching the dryer from the front (lower) panel - we put the belt around the drum while the top was off, tho.
They do have a "stronger" assembly on that pulley arm on the new motor he installed.
Repair costs are high in my area, so I never feel too grateful for anything Asko does, due to the high initial purchase cost and hugh $ invested in repairs and time lost while they are out of service.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri Aug 5th, 2005 20:52 |
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For others reading this thread, you can buy the belt and spring kit here:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1154685
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soulrebel
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Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 00:41 |
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| Does Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the back panel? I have a t780 dryer and I took a picture but a couple of wires were outside the viewable area.. Thanks
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rwoodard
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Posted: Wed Nov 16th, 2005 19:08 |
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| Thanks to whom ever provided this information. I got no help from ASKO Ron
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maryloucb
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Posted: Tue Dec 13th, 2005 00:23 |
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| I'm in the middle of repairing my dryer and I'm having trouble getting the back panel off. Looking at the back there is a little white plastic casing on the back (over the center nut?) Should I pry this off to get to the nut? I can't see the nut, just the plastic. Is this an important piece?
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zenmamasan
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Dec 14th, 2005 |
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Posted: Wed Dec 14th, 2005 22:47 |
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hello everyone,
Been reading the belt saga, and wondering if I start a new topic or stick with this one as I am ran into the same thing. {Under 5 year warranty, pin broke, service people replaced motor {as the pin thingie was attached to the motor} and also had the belt replaced, and I am sitting on a bill for $200, because.....the first run after the repair, we walk into the laundry room to a nasty burnt rubber smell, a little smoke, and the dryer still running, but the drum not turning. As only a week since the service call [ drying outdoors} we called - they said try the reset button, which we did, nada, but the reset button does not do a "click" like the manual says it should. Now the dryer just hums, and the drum won't turn at all. Maybe the tech {who clearly had never seen an ASKO in his life} put the belt on wrong, or wrong part?
I was thinking of repairing ourselves, as 5 warranty now one month over, and the service people have kinda blown us off, saying they won't be here for few months, as they have lost a few of their techs. {This is true I hear from sources..}
Any suggestions? I am clever technically, but never have worked on my own appliances, so in other words, I don't know what the hell I am doing {either!}
Another idea... call Asko USA and scream like hell for them to add a dryer to that free shipment of a replacement ASKO dishwasher, to replace the one that caught on fire last night {another story - still in the making}
"Oh NO! Don't get ASKO!"
Julia
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Dec 15th, 2005 03:32 |
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You should absolutely send a well-written letter to Asko documenting your situation and expressing your hot displeasure. Please post pdf's of your correspondence with Asko as this can be very enlightening for other Asko owners and prospective buyers.
In the meantime, use the pdf attachment in this topic to replace the belt yourself. It sounds like it hopped off the pulley and the motor shaft is spinning against it, burning it.
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zenmamasan
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Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2005 02:33 |
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Thank you O Wise One. Eternal Blessings for you and your family.
I am going for that pdf now on the dryer belt.
{maybe I should go to another thread?} On the Asko model 1385 dishwasher saga {the one that caught on fire during the rinse/drain cycle} - - I talked to Asko, The first line guys [meaning, I'll believe it when I see it} said if I can provide them with an invoice saying the fire started in their machine, they will give me half off a new one. I then relayed that it was "nawt bloody likely" that I would be paying for a new one, when I could buy another more reliable brand for less than the half they would give off. After a few minutes on hold, they then said that they would replace it for free if it was determined that the fire started in the dishwasher {meaning not my installation or electricity} This I think I can prove pretty easily. We shall see what I get.
Then, another repair guy told me make sure that that repair invoice explaining the problem must come from the place that installed it, or the place I bought it from. {Asko certified} or I'll be paying a few service call charges before I see the goods. He is Asko certified, but works as a subcontractor to the sales shop.
Hope this helps,
Julia
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atc guy
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Posted: Thu Jan 5th, 2006 02:14 |
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| Thanks for the ASKO pdf, it was a lot simpler than the instructions from the parts store that they faxed to me. Also be sure to mark all of the wires you remove with masking tape as the schematic that comes with the machine is written in greek and unless you are sweedish you probably won't get it. I wrote them down on a piece of paper, but realized that there are too many same colors. I was able to use my notes and deduce from wire length as to where they should go, I was lucky. The ASKO customer support was usless. ATC GUY.
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quattro
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Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2006 09:44 |
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| maryloucb, were you able to get to the center nut? Did you pry off that white plastic cap? Anyone can give me a pointer on how to remove the center nut? Thanks.
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maryloucb
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Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2006 23:21 |
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Hopefully you've gotten the dryer fixed by now, but no, I never did get the center nut off. We were able to do it without removing the center nut, just by pulling the whole drum with the back metal piece off and getting in there with some small hands.
Hope it all worked out for you
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pcmdub
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Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 09:05 |
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I just did this repair and want to thanks everyone. Few things...
1. I did not have the 3 screws in the lower "semi-circle".
2. The main center bolt on my unit had a plastic coating that needed to be cut off.
3. I didn't unplug anything or disconnect any wires. Simply lifted the belt around the front of the drum.
4. Hint for easier working. I used small pieces of tape to hold the belt in the center of the drum in THREE places. This assisted in getting the tensioner laced with one hand. Be sure to remove the tape before closing. I did all of this while the unit was face down on the front.
5. Before starting the unit back up, try to vacuum and blow out all the lint from the heating element. My unit smelled like burning paper for a few seconds. Some others could be worse.
Thanks again.
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