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logic_zone
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Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 05:51 |
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Washer stops during load cycle (wash, rinse and/or spin) (on light & door lock light go out) and will not restart automatically (even after an extended wait). It will restart when start button is pushed and finish the load cycle or sometimes stop a second time requiring another push of the start button to resume and finish washing the load. Is the problem with the timer or perhaps with one of the  infamous circuit boards? Thanks for any help you can give.
Logic_Zone
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Ron
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 06:16 |
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| Logic, almost sounds like the motor control unit is loosing its nuetral. Maytag had an issue with your model where it would loose its nuetral side to the controller. They advised to check the white harness connected to each water valve solenoid and check for poor crimping of the terminals. The nuetral side passes through the water valve soleniods. This is one possibility, Ron
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Trying to help
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Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 06:45 |
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| With an empty tub, start the unit on wash, hot water. Look at the water volume going into the soap area. Let it run for 10 seconds to get a good look. Then, with the unit set for a cold rinse, move the timer to the #2 rinse and start it. Again monitor it for 10-20 seconds. Does the flow of water look the same? Is cold less? If it were a board, you would not be able to restart it. If you find a noticeable difference in pressures, clean out both the screens at the end of your inlet hose (where it hooks to house faucet) and your water valve.
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logic_zone
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Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 16:16 |
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Thanks for your prompt replys gentlemen. I failed to mention that I only have the cold water hooked up with a cap covering the hot water side of the inlet. (no hot water in the shop). Based upon your comments, I suspect I have created the problem by not having both inlets hooked up to water. Question is, does the water into the hot inlet have to be hot for this fancy machine to work properly? Perhaps the water inlets are, indeed, partially clogged and I will certainly check them and all electrical connections. I gather neither of you believe the problem is in the timer.
Thanks for saving me the price of a timer.
Bill Akin
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Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 16:27 |
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| The valve is going to toggle back and forth trying to get to 70 degree cold water, and 105 degree warm water both + or - 10 degrees. As long as you have a water source to both coils it will fill OK. It will just start on the cold solenoid then switch to the hot for the rest of the cycle. If all you have is cold water, use powder and try to run a load with bleach every now and then. Cold water, liquid detergent and washers (especially front loaders) do not get along well.
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