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Maytag Washer Model#LAT9356AAE runs "delicate" only...?

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Posted: Tue Mar 7th, 2006 10:48 pm

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Shoot4fun
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Just bought this pair @ auction. Replaced our old dryer with the newer Maytag and it works fine. I was told the washer only ran the delicate cycle. Can one anyone tell me where to start looking for this problem? I'd like to replace our old washer with this one, as our old stuff is, well, OLD... While I don't claim to be an expert in this field, I can usually fix something if I know where to find the problem. Hence the reason I'm here...

Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 01:25 am

2^nd Post

Trying to help
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Chances are you have a bad timer cam. If the motor runs and starts in delicate, the regular run windings are probably good because we use them to start the unit in delicate. The slow speed windings are not strong enough to do it by themselves even with the kick of the start winding. Do you have a meter and are you in possession of the unit to do some tests?

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Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 10:26 pm

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Shoot4fun
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Trying to help wrote: Chances are you have a bad timer cam. If the motor runs and starts in delicate, the regular run windings are probably good because we use them to start the unit in delicate. The slow speed windings are not strong enough to do it by themselves even with the kick of the start winding. Do you have a meter and are you in possession of the unit to do some tests? I do have a meter and the unit. Point me in the right direction and turn me loose!

Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 12:04 am

4^th Post

Trying to help
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I am assuming the motor will not run at all in spin on regular speed?? No hum, buzz, nada nothing zilch? Is this correct? And it will run fine in slow spin correct?

Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 02:03 am

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Shoot4fun
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I gotta be honest with ya T. I have not even hooked it up yet. I have the washer in my shop, and can hook it up to the garden hose. I'll do that and then let you know what I do & don't have functioning.

Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 03:06 am

6^th Post

Trying to help
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IF you don't want to hook it up, just drop the console, access the pressure switch and momentarily (JUST FOR TEST PURPOSES) switch the Brown and Yellow wires. Now start it in wash, this will fool the unit into thinking it is full of water and it will try to run the motor in agitate. If the motor runs fine in agitate on regular speed, and fine in gentle on agitate, the motor is fine. This is a quick decisive way to determine the motor is good, but only for testing. When complete, correct the wiring. I do not see a speed switch on your unit, it appears the timer does it all. If that is the case, and we know the motor is good, bad timer. Let us know and we can go from there.

Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 11:01 pm

7^th Post

Shoot4fun
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Trying to help wrote: IF you don't want to hook it up, just drop the console, access the pressure switch and momentarily (JUST FOR TEST PURPOSES) switch the Brown and Yellow wires. Now start it in wash, this will fool the unit into thinking it is full of water and it will try to run the motor in agitate. If the motor runs fine in agitate on regular speed, and fine in gentle on agitate, the motor is fine. This is a quick decisive way to determine the motor is good, but only for testing. When complete, correct the wiring. I do not see a speed switch on your unit, it appears the timer does it all. If that is the case, and we know the motor is good, bad timer. Let us know and we can go from there.
Well, I tried the wiring by-pass as you suggested. It will ONLY run in the DELICATE setting. All other settings, Nada. Zip. Zilch. No motor activity at all. It will agitate AND spin, but only on the delicate side. Got any suggestions? I'm thinking I need to tear this thing down to the floor and see just how many things are actually worng with it. May be a lost cause.

Gonna need a new power cord too. Seems the mice thought it rather tasty...

Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 12:27 am

8^th Post

Trying to help
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Suspect open timer cam 6. Put your timer in spin, pull it out like you want it to run, set your meter on 120VAC scale and do a voltage check from Black 32 on your timer to the white wire on the pressure switch. IF you read 120VAC, then you have an open timer cam. Replace timer and should be good to go.

Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 01:05 am

9^th Post

Shoot4fun
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I'll give that a try. Another question. Is it possible to replace the knob? The one you pull out? This one has the little rubber ring around it, and it feels an awful lot like cat snot on a brass door knob... I kinda browsed the parts store below, but I didn't see the exact style I have. Any suggestions on that?

Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 01:29 am

10^th Post

Trying to help
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The knob can be purchased, but it will have to be the same type. Rubberized around the outside. Marketing! Soft feel, people like cat snot! The studies prove it!

Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 02:31 am

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Shoot4fun
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Eeeewwww... That's just wrong! Surely this one's been exposed to something it wasn't 'sposed to. I hope. OK, I'll let you know tomorrow how the test turns out. Thanks for the help so far!

Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 01:02 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Timer part link: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=824632

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Posted: Sat Mar 11th, 2006 02:22 am

13^th Post

Shoot4fun
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Domo, Sensei...

Don't 'spose you ran across the main cycle knob whilst you was in the store...?

:stooges:

Posted: Sat Mar 11th, 2006 03:45 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I did but there are two different colors, gray and white. It's easy to look up, just click here:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&P=1

and enter your make, model etc.

Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:08 pm

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jhruppel
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Was this problem ever resolved? I have a Maytag LAT8614AAE that gradually quit working on all cycles except delicate. It doesn't agitate or spin. Before I shell out the $$$ for a new timer, I thought I should check here.

Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:29 pm

16^th Post

Pegi
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Closing this old un-secured thread, please register and re-post your question.

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