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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| whirl pool duet | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 06:38 pm |
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41st Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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F/02 If the drain time exceeds eight minutes, the water valves are turned off and “F/02” is flashed. Press PAUSE/CANCEL two times to clear thedisplay. NOTE: After four minutes the “Sud” error will be displayed, then fourminutes later the “F/02” error code will be displayed. Potential Causes Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked. Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running. Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects. If the above does not correct the problem, replace the pump. This is off of your tech sheet..............
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 06:40 pm |
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42nd Post |
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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AstroRon wrote:Is the water supposed to pour in while the pump is pumping and the drum is rotating to help rinse? This is the action of a "Spray Rinse". There two types of Rinse in most FL:- a) "Spray Rinse" - At the end of the wash phase, the drain pump will pump out all the water. When all the water is nearly pumped out, the water fill will begin and last only for a short time (say 1 min). Then a short-time slow spin to extract water from the laundry. During this "Spray Rinse" period, the pump is still running (i.e. water in and water out). b) "Deep Rinse" - Pump stops. Water fills to the normal level. Tumble for a few min. Then pump starts to pump out all the water. When all the water is out, a long-time slow or fast spin follows. The pump is usually ON during any spinning period in order to remove any water extracted from laundry. The "Spray Rinse" is also acting as a "Cool-down" Rinse to prevent "thermal shock" to the fabrics because the wash temperature could be very hot (say on Sanitary Hot). A cold "Deep Rinse" without "Spray Rinse" will give a thermal shock and could damage the fabrics of the laundry. Most FL do not state that they have "Spray Rinse" and it is usually included in the 1st Rinse ( Spray + Deep). The 2nd, 3rd etc are only "Deep Rinses" I've spent hours watching this machine and wonder WHY isn't there more water going into the unit to rinse during Rinse & Spin? It looks like it dumps some in but not very much. In olden days FL, you could see water level, 1/3 above the door glass, but not these modern FLs. The modern FL uses very little water (6 gal or less) for "Deep Rinse" and "Wash". If you stop the FL and measure the depth of water, it will be 3.5" or less from the bottom of the drum. The water level is far below the laundry. how do you remove the wire from the connector to pin 14? (or 11) You have to cut the wire and taped the ends.
____________________ The Seven |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 06:57 pm |
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43rd Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Pegi, This is amazing but I'm back to where I started! Replacing the PUMP! (according to the summary you gave! Which is where I started before although the pump "appears" to be pumping the water out of the drum in SECONDS but keeps running and running, etc. for minutes on end. I appreciate the help...BELIEVE me!
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 07:02 pm |
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44th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I am just pasting the information found in the repair manual and the tech sheet, the link to the manual is in this thread and the tech sheet is inside of your washer..
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 07:03 pm |
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45th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Seven, Thanks for the added info on the rinse. Really very comprehensive! I keep coming back to the length of time the PUMP is running as it clears the tub in SECONDS but just keeps running! Clothes or no clothes, soap or very little soap. No different than she has done these last 3 1/2 years of trouble free use! Thanks!
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 07:08 pm |
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46th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Pegi wrote: I am just pasting the information found in the repair manual and the tech sheet, the link to the manual is in this thread and the tech sheet is inside of your washer.. Thanks Pegi, The manual has been a really great help but being a technician, I'd like added info like voltage check points, etc. to "see" if the signals going from A to B are correct. I can follow the schematic OK but wish there were other "test points". Thanks!
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 07:29 pm |
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47th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Seven, Thanks for the added info on the rinse. Really very comprehensive! I keep coming back to the length of time the PUMP is running as it clears the tub in SECONDS but just keeps running! Clothes or no clothes, NO soap or very little soap. No different than she has done these last 3 1/2 years of trouble free use! Thanks! I had to edit the last post so I did it with a "cut-n-paste"...NO SOAP or very little...
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 08:17 pm |
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48th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Here's an update... I ran the diagnostic again and here are the results: C:01, C:02 only took a few seconds. C:03 started at 52:10 C:04 started at 54:25 2 min, 15 sec after C:03 started C:05 couple of seconds C:06 started at 55:40 1 min, 15 sec after C:04 started C:07 started at 02:50 7 min and 10 sec after C:06 started! C:08 finished at 04:10 3 min, 20 sec after C:07 started The PUMP really likes to run, long after the drum is drained. It just pumps air.
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 08:25 pm |
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49th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Sounds like something is telling the washer it still has water or suds in it, I do not know what because we have not worked on may of these...perhaps someone else will know.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 08:49 pm |
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50th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Thanks, Pegi. Guess I'll call the "APPLIANCE REPAIR MAN" through where we bought it. The machine isn't that odl and I went back through 68 pages of threads yesterday and didn't find too much on the Duet. (As compared to others). You've been helpful and I will follow-up at a later date. I'll keep checking here until it's fixed...just in case something comes up. Best regards to all,
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 11:18 pm |
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51st Post |
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Southern Master Appliantologist
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AstroRon wrote:I found a new twist to the problem... The display is an estimated time remaining not an actual time remaining.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 11:23 pm |
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52nd Post |
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Southern Master Appliantologist
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Pegi wrote:Sounds like something is telling the washer it still has water or suds in it, I do not know what because we have not worked on may of these...perhaps someone else will know. My $.02 says it is the Suds Detect switch. Since AstroRon verified that the Empty switch contacts are made and that the pump extracts the water out of the tub in a reasonable amount of time leads me to believe that the Suds Detect switch contacts are closed. Last edited on Mon Mar 20th, 2006 11:24 pm by Southern |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 20th, 2006 11:23 pm |
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53rd Post |
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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There seems to be a false "Suds Detect". Would suggest to disconnect wire 14 and then run the test again and compare thr time!
____________________ The Seven |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 02:26 am |
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54th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Well folks, I didn't cut or disconnect any wires BUT I did remove the Pressure Switch HOSE at the pressure switch and blew into it...hard...then I drew in a breath through the hose and blew again. I could hear something like I was blowing on the surface of water...not in it, but on it. There may have been some lint partially blocking the hose near the bottom opening. I pushed it back on the pressure switch and ran the diagnostic. I didn't have time to even begin timing the C:06 cycle as it was over before I even realized it! JUST SECONDS! The whole thing only took a couple of minutes. (maybe more but not much!) I tried to reason why the CCU wasn't getting a "timely" "EMPTY" signal and/or a false SUD display when the Pressure Switch read "EMPTY". It just didn't make sense. Especially with the PUMP running like the "Energizer Bunny". So, I tried the hose trick and it worked! Go figure! I couldn't find anything about checking the pressure switch hose. I would recommend those of you carrying the tech manual around with you like a "bible", ADD a note on page 6-7 at the top under Potential Causes (for SUD), check the pressure switch AND Pressure Switch HOSE for blockage. Something for you DUET GURUS to put in your back pocket! You're all very welcome AND Thanks for all the good hints and assistance! Best,
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 02:30 am |
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55th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Another thought...Could it be the pump motors fail because they work soo hard because of this problem? (among the "stuff" found trapped in the filter) Ours was VERY clean for 3 1/2 years of use.
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 02:40 am |
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56th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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The "Grasshopper" has done graduated! 
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 03:26 am |
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57th Post |
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Southern Master Appliantologist
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AstroRon wrote:
I'm glad to hear that you didn't give up and found a fix to the problem. The reason why you were getting a false SUD signal with the pressure switch reading Empty is that the Sud Level is independent of the water level. Take a look at the service manual on page 7-1. The pressure switch consist of a water level switch with 3 water level set points and another "Foam Level" switch which is independent of the water level. Some debis in the hose may have caused the false Sud level. The drain pump on my Kenmore/Whirlpool washer actually works less then my old top loader Maytag. On the Maytag the mechanical pump constantly turns when the washer is on. It turns in reverse during the wash portion and forward during the drain cycle. The electric pump on the front loader Whirlpool only energizes when extracting water from the tub.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 03:39 am |
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58th Post |
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AstroRon Grasshopper
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Thanks for your help "Southern"! The tips and ideas were all in the right ballpark but I couldn't make sense of the "data" I was seeing. It wasn't making logical sense! Why would the PS read "EMPTY" and display a SUD condition. Along with the fact I could see the water was gone from the tub and the "poor" PUMP was straining his butt to pump air! We gave up on doing a load of laundry tonight. My wife has guests coming tomorrow eve. and she was out straight cleaning and baking. AND, my BRAIN is fried! I'd like to thank "PEGI" & "SEVEN" for their input and suggestions too. Blessings to all of you!
____________________ Ron |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 04:28 am |
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59th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 07:48 am |
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60th Post |
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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____________________ The Seven |
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