ApplianceGuru.com:  The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Fixitnow.com


Konnichiwa and Welcome!

Please register to post a question. It's FREE!

SEARCH THIS SITE
We have a bizillion pages of specific appliance repair questions and answers here just aching for the furtive caress of your engorged and tingling eyeballs. Use this search box to find ‘em.

FIND PARTS FAST
Search by part number or model number. You can also search by appliance type, brand, or even the type of part.



 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it!
New Topic Printer Friendly
Admiral Dryer won't run model #LNC7764A71  Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 01:49 am
   
1st Post
rev-dude
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Mon Jan 23rd, 2006
Location:  
Posts: 4
Flavorite Brew: 
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
This dryer is about 8 years old and I haven't had any issues with it before.  The dryer suddenly quit running in the middle of a load and will not start nor is there any power allowing the inside light to come on.  I have power all the way into where the cord attaches to the machine.

There was an inordinate amount of lint build up in the hose vent.

My initial thought now is that it is a fuse problem but I don't know where to locate those or how to check them.


:headbang:

Back To Top    

 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 03:55 am
   
2nd Post
applianceman18007260692
Sublime Master of Appliantology


Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location: Mobile, Alabama USA
Posts: 978
Flavorite Brew: Keystone Light
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
If the light wont burn then the power is shut down by the fuse, it located on the right side of the heater element housing, it is held by a clip that uses the same screw that holds the heater element,  take off the front panel and remove the lint ball thats built up in front of the blower and check the blower wheel itself for tightness to the motor shaft ,to access the heater housing you must use a thin blade to compress the spring clips that hold down the top, they are about 2 inches from each side of the dryer between the top and front. this is a common problem on this dryer



____________________
"May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty"
Old Irish Saying

Back To Top  

 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 05:55 am
   
3rd Post
rev-dude
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Mon Jan 23rd, 2006
Location:  
Posts: 4
Flavorite Brew: 
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
Thanks...I have now done all of those things...I couldn't believe how much lint buildup there was on the blower assembly.  My only question was what the actual fuse looks like.  Looking at parts it seems that there are several fuses and I wasn't sure which one I should replace.

I attached a picture...does this look like the fuse I should replace?...the one attached to the element assembly?

Attachment: 00147326.jpg (Downloaded 75 times)

Back To Top    

 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 07:10 am
   
4th Post
bigger hammer
Sublime Master of Appliantology


Joined: Thu Jan 12th, 2006
Location: Victoria, British Columbia Canada
Posts: 288
Flavorite Brew: Rickard's Red
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
thats one the other is a white one near the blower/fan housing.

tape the wires together from the black one, leave the back off and fire it up. if no go then do the same by jumping the wires from the white fuse and try again.

DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THIS.

the fuse poped cause of the lint build up. if it hadnt you woulda very well possibly had a fire to deal with.(unless you are one of those that turns on their dryer and then goes to bed - bad bad bad)

if still no go then update us and we'll walk you through more tests



____________________
Before you start.....how much is it going to cost and how long is it going to take?
Back To Top  

 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 04:22 pm
   
5th Post
rev-dude
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Mon Jan 23rd, 2006
Location:  
Posts: 4
Flavorite Brew: 
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
It Worked!  When I taped the two wires together on the top it ran like a champ.

I got my wife fooled into thinking I'm an appliance repairman stud.

I think I read somewhere that it's good to replace both fuses if you are going to replace any of them.  Is that true or do I only need to replace the one that was faulty?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2006 05:54 am
   
6th Post
bigger hammer
Sublime Master of Appliantology


Joined: Thu Jan 12th, 2006
Location: Victoria, British Columbia Canada
Posts: 288
Flavorite Brew: Rickard's Red
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
i would replace both fuses since you had an overheating situation. the other one may not be gone right at this minute but it definatelly has been "stressed". so since youre going to get a part at the store anyways you might as well save yourself a trip.

good job ! youre a pro now:D



____________________
Before you start.....how much is it going to cost and how long is it going to take?
Back To Top  

 Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2006 06:53 am
   
7th Post
rev-dude
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Mon Jan 23rd, 2006
Location:  
Posts: 4
Flavorite Brew: 
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
Thanks so much for your help...my dryer is now in top operating condition again.  I really appreciate your promptness in answering my questions.  I can stop wearing all of those wet clothes now!

Blessings...

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 03:06 am
   
8th Post
ruvaldez
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2009
Location:  
Posts: 3
Flavorite Brew: diet dr. pepper
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
I am having problems with an Admiral LNC7764A71 that won't run at all.  I have located the black fuse next to the heating coil and seems to be opened.  I tied wires together and it still won't run.  I have something that looks like a fuse down by the blower assembly but it has four wires.  I don't know if this is a fuse or not.  I can't seem to find the second fuse if this one is not it. Help please, wife is driving me MAD!

Last edited on Fri Feb 20th, 2009 03:07 am by ruvaldez

Back To Top  

 Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 06:44 pm
   
9th Post
applianceman18007260692
Sublime Master of Appliantology


Joined: Thu Nov 17th, 2005
Location: Mobile, Alabama USA
Posts: 978
Flavorite Brew: Keystone Light
Skype: 
Status: 
Offline
If your element is in the rear top then the fuse is near it. The only other thing might be the door safety open. The 4 wire safety is just a control thermostat. It is called a biased heat thermostat because it has a small heater in it that makes it shut down faster for delicate or permapress.
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-will-not-spin/agitator-woes/dryer-will-not-work/how-do-i-get-inside-my-dryer/dead-dryer

Attachment: admiral fuse kitr.jpg (Downloaded 18 times)

Last edited on Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 06:53 pm by applianceman18007260692



____________________
"May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty"
Old Irish Saying

Back To Top    

 Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 07:03 pm
   
10th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 11039
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Skype: 
Status: 
Online
 

 

Does the Drum Light work ?



 





____________________

RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA

Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?"
Back To Top  

Current time is 02:40 am  
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Admiral Dryer won't run model #LNC7764A71 Top



FAQs | Parts | Service | Store | Newsletter | Sitemap | Beer | Fixitnow.com

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
ApplianceGuru.com:  The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor." Skype Me™!

Appliance theme by Di @ Data 1 Systems
UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.2598 seconds (7% database + 93% PHP). 26 queries executed.