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msweeney
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Posted: Tue May 3rd, 2005 18:34 |
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Hi,
I've appreciated reading through some previous posts to try and diagnose my washer problem. I have a Maytag LAT8234AAE washing machine that recently began starting to agitate intermittently on the "Normal" cycle and then quit agitating altogether for "Normal" and "Permanent Press" cycles. The delicates cycle still works properly, however.
I tried taking off the timer and very gently sanding down the contacts to the wiring to see if that would help, but it did not make any difference.
I'm assuming that I have a bad timer (instead of say, a bad motor, lid switch, or pressure sensor) since the water fills to the proper level and the washer begins to agitate on the delicates cycle. Additionally, on the normal wash cycle, the timer continues through the "wash" (agitate) cycle into the rinse and spin cycles properly.
I should also mention that the washer was up on blocks in our previous apartment (we just moved to a house) and managed to rock off of the blocks while in the spin cycle despite my best efforts to keep it level (the floor was not level and the blocks tended to slide out from underneath the washer).
Thank you very much for any help!
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue May 3rd, 2005 23:07 |
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| It's either a bad high speed winding on the motor or the timer is bad. We'll need to check some voltages at the motor under different conditions to confirm. Post your wiring diagram here or fax it to me at 775-416-4449 and we can guide you where to measure.
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msweeney
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Posted: Wed May 4th, 2005 06:38 |
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Ok, here's the wiring diagram. I tried to figure out some of the necessary voltage measurements from another post on a maytag washer, but I didn't know if the voltage was being measured while the washer was simply plugged in, or during a particular cycle, etc. Plus I'm pretty much a novice at repairs like this, but I pick things up pretty quickly and have a basic understanding of taking voltage and current readings and how electrical circuits work.
I've already read through your tutorial on continuity tests and voltage readings, which I am familiar with. I have a multimeter, but I don't have one of those sticks that illuminate when they're near a wire that has current running through it. Don't know if I'll need one.
Thanks again for your help!
MattAttachment: LAT8234AAE Wiring Diagram.png (Downloaded 39 times) Last edited on Wed May 4th, 2005 06:39 by msweeney
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Thu May 5th, 2005 02:21 |
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Great diagram!
On the motor, ohm out from the white wire terminal to the black wire terminal to check the continuity of the reg. speed winding. Remove at least one of the wires from its terminal in order to isolate the motor from the rest of the circuit. We're looking to see if the regular speed winding is open. Normal resistance reading is something in the low single digits.
If that check is good, reattach all wires, plug the washer in and set it to run on a regular wash cycle. Let it fill satisfy the pressure switch then measure for 120vac at the black wire on the motor. Have voltage == bad motor.
If you don't have voltage there, jump up to pin 16 of the pressure switch and check for voltage there. No voltage == bad pressure switch.
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msweeney
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Posted: Fri May 6th, 2005 01:11 |
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| Thanks for the diagnosis. I didn't have time last night, so I'll be testing out everything tonight. From looking at the timer information on the wiring diagram, it does seem that the motor could not be engaging in regular speed.
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msweeney
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Posted: Fri May 6th, 2005 08:52 |
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Ok, I tested out the continuity of the regular speed widing and it measured about 2 ohms, so that appears to be fine. On the regular wash cycle (after the water was filled and the pressure switch satisfied) I measured 120vac from the black wire on the motor.
I also tried measuring the yellow wire (line 16) on the pressure switch, and I didn't get any voltage during the cycle, but I did measure 120vac on the brown wire (line 15). This was true in both the delicate and normal cycles. Did I measure it incorrectly, or is that fine?
Seems like during the delicate cycle the pressure switch is working just fine, so since I did get the 120vac on the motor during the normal wash cycle, I need a new one. The replacement needs to be a two-speed, correct? I ask because I'm only finding one-speed motors when looking up parts for this model.
Thanks,
MattLast edited on Fri May 6th, 2005 17:46 by msweeney
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msweeney
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Posted: Mon May 9th, 2005 04:20 |
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Hi again,
I was wondering if anyone knew about the one-speed vs. two-speed motor issue. Does the one-speed motor simple have separate windings that are engaged by different current paths for a slow and regular speed?
Also, any feedback on the diagnosis I came to after the Samurai's guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
Matt
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon May 9th, 2005 05:27 |
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Oops! Thanks for bumping this, it got buried under the avalanche of new posts.
The pictures below illustrates the differences between single- and two-speed washer motors. Conveniently, it's showing how to set up a test cord to check out a Maytag washer motor:
 Last edited on Mon May 9th, 2005 06:49 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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msweeney
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Posted: Mon May 9th, 2005 22:28 |
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Thanks for the response. I think I'm going to pick up the one-speed motor and then examine my current motor before the install just to make sure. All of the online parts finders are coming up with one-speed, so I think I'm safe.
I'll let you know the results when I install the motor tonight. I'll have to assemble a test cord for future use, too. Thanks,
Matt
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msweeney
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Posted: Tue May 10th, 2005 06:41 |
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Is it possible that there is simply not a two speed part available anymore for this washer? I can't seem to find a two speed motor anywhere, and the motor in my washer is definitely a two speed (1725/1140 rpm), as opposed to the one-speed (1725 rpm) that I just purchased. Thanks for your help,
Matt
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Mad Mac
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Posted: Tue May 10th, 2005 07:46 |
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Something odd here....running your model number at PartSelect.com comes up with this:
Bit different from what's in your machine...do you have a "Rev" or "Series" number on your machines ID plate? The motor on sale there makes mention of some kind of jumper kit, did you get anything like that?
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msweeney
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Posted: Tue May 10th, 2005 08:30 |
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LAT8435AAE is the correct model number. I did get the jumper assembly with the one speed, which is what led me to believe I had the wrong motor in the first place, becuase my 2-speed doesn't use anything like that.
Suffice to say, I feel pretty dumb. I read the number off our service manual, which I received from the woman who sold us the washer. She apparently was also dumb (and perhaps a liar), because she gave us a user manual with a model number written in it, which is what I used. Intestingly, our model number isn't even in that user manual.
So, now that I can actually get the right motor, I would greatly appreciate if someone could guide me to the right tools to get this old motor & mount place off of the washer. I was able to get the screw closest to the front off, but after that it's a very tight area on the other side of the motor. What does maytag have against a blade or philips head on their screws? Thanks again for your help!
Matt
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue May 10th, 2005 11:53 |
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msweeney wrote:
LAT8435AAE is the correct model number.
DOH! 
Good catch, Mad One!
Matt, this isn't difficult. Remove the front panel, tilt the washer back, and remove the motor pulley and the plate screws. Here's a parts diagram:
And here's the correct motor you need:
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msweeney
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Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 22:09 |
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Thanks again for the help and parts diagram. Over the weekend I became pretty adept at taking the motor out and putting a new one in because I received a new motor that was damaged or malfunctioning in some way.
The new motor was overheating under a very minor load agitating (I was testing it without clothes in the washer), and sometimes would not spin at all. If I put only the load of the water pump (which I did to drain the tub out), then it worked, althought it still heated up and made a lot of noise.
My old motor actually performed better, so I put that back in. I'll be returing this "new" motor since it was defective.
I have a question regarding the diagnosis of the motor, however. Specifically, the timing diagram specifies that the delicates cycle uses the normal motor speed during the first spin cycle, which seems to work properly on the washer now, although I don't think it did before. Now, I did remove some rust/corrosion from the motor, which may have helped it. The motor still does not engage on the wash cycle for "normal wash," so I'm wondering about the diagnosis of the motor being a problem. If the motor is working for "slow" and "normal," wouldn't the problem be the timer?
Thanks,
Matt
PS - I'm going to pick up the parts to make a test wire tonight, so hopefully I will be able to report results for that, too.
Last edited on Tue May 17th, 2005 17:51 by msweeney
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msweeney
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Posted: Wed May 18th, 2005 08:04 |
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Well, I made the motor test wire and both slow/normal agitate and spin speeds work properly. So, I guess I'm ordering a new timer tomorrow, since that seems to be the issue given that the motor works properly when given the right signal.
Any input about that decision would be appreciated. Thanks for your help, Samurai.
Matt
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msweeney
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Posted: Thu May 19th, 2005 18:16 |
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I replaced the timer last night and, low and behold, the washer agitates and spins on all cycles  . Thank you all for your help.
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Current time is 13:41 | |
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