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Whirlpool Dryer stops in mid cycle  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2006 04:58 am
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cozment
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My Dryer stops drying after about 4 minutes of drying time on high heat. After it shuts down, you have to wait about 7 - 15 minutes before it will start back up. Mashing the button until that time results in nothing.  If you put the dryer on lower heat, it will run longer but will eventually shut down too with the same outcome.  I checked the dryer vents and everything looks good.  Plenty of output.  These have only been in place for about 5 months. Also, the drum turns pretty easy so it doesn't feel like the motor is in a bind. Everything is pointing to some type of over heating but I don't know where to go from here.  It's not tripping breakers or anything like some other post have stated.  It just simply shuts down and won't start backup until it has a break.  Any ideas?

 

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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2006 03:30 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The motor is overheating and kicking out on thermal overload. You can disassemble the dryer and try cleaning out the motor.

http://fixitnow.com/2003/11/appliance-tip-of-day-dryer-disassembly.htm

Failing that, you'll need to replace the motor:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2584



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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2006 06:55 pm
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cozment
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I'll try that and let you know.  Thanks for the quick response!

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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 02:08 am
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cozment
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A neighbor and me just replace the motor with a brand new one.  The old one didn't look bad and was actually quite clean for an 8 year old machine.  The dryer stills stops after 5 minutes even after it has a new motor.  The exhaust is in great shape and plenty of air passes out of it.  I even cleaned up the dryer's exhaust system while we had it apart.  Any other areas it could be?  This is a Whirlpool dryer model number LER4634EQ2.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 02:40 am
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exsearsguy

 

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How does it do if you operate it on air only?

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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 03:25 am
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cozment
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I'm not sure but I do know it operates a lot longer on low heat.  Matter of fact, it's almost finished drying a load of clothes on low heat right now.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 03:32 am
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Pegi
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Get a volt meter and put the leads on the dryer where the cord attaches to the terminal block and run the dryer, see if you are loosing voltage to the dryer on the motor side when the motor goes off, from the electrical in the house wiring...black to common= white, would be the motor side...



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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 02:14 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If the dryer is located in a room with high ambient temp, e.g., furnace rooms, utility rooms, etc., then this can cause the motor's thermal overload to kick out. Been bitten by this one before.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 03:20 pm
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cozment
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The room is quite cool so this isn't an issue. Is there any sensors on the dryer other than the motor one that wouldn't cause it to shut down and have to cool off before restarting?  It seems to be a temperture issue since I can dry a lot longer on a lower heat.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 04:09 pm
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Pegi
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Seems like I would still be checking the voltage supply to the dryer as I can think of nothing else that would cause two different motors to cut out after 5 minutes of running..the motor could not care less if the heat is on or not...sounds like the motor is not getting enough voltage and the high heat is aggraving this voltage draw....or something inside the dryer is not giving enough voltage like a wire going bad or burnt timer contacts.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2006 05:59 pm
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exsearsguy

 

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Coz, put your dryer back on high, let it run till it cuts out. Then go flip your breaker off and feel around all the connections and see if anything feels warm or hot. Use the back of your hand.If something is hot it won't burn as bad that way.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2006 07:46 am
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bigger hammer



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how long is the vent? flex? solid aluminum?

is there a screen on the exhaust (where it discharges outside of the house)??

when you run the dryer is the chassis/shell getting hot on the top or sides?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 16th, 2006 07:51 am
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bigger hammer



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or for some weird reason could be the motor relay

if you open up the console locate 2 relays

one is the motor and the other for heat

they both look identical - small black cubes the size of a 9V battery roughly

they both have 4 wires but the heat relay will have 2 wires that are thicker-- mark that one with some tape(so you know thats the good one)

then swap the 2 relays

if your motor now runs and stays running you know what to replace(part number is printed on the relay)



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