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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kemore Elite - agitates but won't spin |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 |
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| Kemore Elite - agitates but won't spin | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Dec 10th, 2005 06:28 am |
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41st Post |
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BenKnown2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Good news all - I did not fix it, yes, I said, "I did not fix it". But Sears is - duh the dang thing is still under warranty. Life goes by so fast that it felt like ages since we had bought that thing. I will post what the repair man finds out - he is coming today (Sat) as well as the pictures of the disassembly I did earlier. This is an awesome forum and will sure to be back (my warranty is up jan 2006). Once I get my paypal account straightened up I will send some beer bucks your way Mr. Samarai. Thanks for everyones help and advice.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 01:55 am |
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42nd Post |
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gpagolf Grasshopper
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Okay I am the one who posted the other Kenmore Elite that would not spin but would agitate. I however, did not give up since mine was not still under warranty. The reason I am posting here is for two reasons. One my topic was abandoned and two I found (kind of) the problem with my washer. After taking Pegi's advice about not enough power, I decided to dig deep. I tore the washer apart, took motor, control panel, and wiring harness completely off. I ran continuity tests on all the connections that led to the motor. All these checked out. I also put the tester against a couple of the solder runs on the board and it tested out as far as the 110-120 connections. I then reconnected everything while still apart and viola it worked. I have a feeling it was a bad connection on the board. It might be worth your time to clean the connections with alcohol and try to connect them again if the repair person does not figure it out. GOOD LUCK!
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 02:12 am |
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43rd Post |
GLC
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gpagolf wrote: I then reconnected everything while still apart and viola it worked.Hi - want to make sure I am understanding the above statement. Do you mean that you mounted the motor and the pump back on the motor and it worked?
____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 01:07 pm |
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44th Post |
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BenKnown2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The Sears guys came out and did everything you guys told me to do, except I did not get to check the power going to the motor. He checked the motor and there was enough voltage - this told him the motor was bad...but in his experience, when the tub would not turn it was two things 1) the motor or 2) the timer. He changed out the timer because it was easier to put one in than to put a motor in. After he put the timer in the machine worked fine. He popped open the old timer and we found burned contacts. He says the way they are wired up they tend to burn out alot. Correct me if I am wrong...Going back to the voltage at the motor, voltage is not truely enough to determine if you have enough power to the motor since power is P = Volts x Amps. It seems like you also need to check the amps going to the motor. With the burned out contact, it probably increased the resistance at the timer contact therefore reducing the amps that were being sent to the motor. But there was enough contact to send the full 110 volts so the 110 at the motor can be misleading.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 01:40 pm |
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45th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Resistance also creates a voltage drop. So if the contacts were burnt bad enough, 100% of the voltage could be dropped across the contacts. If, OTOH, the contacts were for the neutral side of the motor, then you'd still see all the voltage dropped across the motor (the load), none across the contacts, but there'd be no return path for current. You can read an illustrative story about this here: http://applianceguru.com/forum11/4115.html I explain electricity to my kids using a water analogy. The water behind the dam is voltage; it doesn't do any work just sitting there, it only has the potential to do work when it gets released from the dam. The water flowing from the dam is current. The rocks in the river bed are resistance. The higher the water is behind the dam, the harder it'll push water out== the higher the voltage, the more current it can push through a circuit (ignoring resistance and impedance for the sake of illustration). Power would be similar to measuring the volumetric flow of water in a river in gallons per minute because it's a product of both voltage (water level) and current (water flow). Last edited on Mon Dec 12th, 2005 01:58 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man ____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 02:51 pm |
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46th Post |
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gpagolf Grasshopper
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GLC wrote: gpagolf wrote:I then reconnected everything while still apart and viola it worked.Hi - want to make sure I am understanding the above statement. Do you mean that you mounted the motor and the pump back on the motor and it worked? While the motor was disconnected from the gear case and pump, and reconnected to the wiring harness (actually sitting on my dryer), I tested the spin and drain cycle. Once I discovered the motor was now reversing itself, I re-mounted the motor and it all worked perfect. My problem was the same as Benknown2, in the since of the motor would not reverse and therefore would not spin or drain, but it would agitate. However, my fix was not in replacing anything just disconnecting all the leads and reconnecting. In "Water Terms" I had a farmer drawing water off my lake at a significant enough rate to effect how much water could flow out of the dam therefore, reducing the flow through the dam at release. I assume I had a bad contact point somewhere and it fixed itself when I reinstalled the wiring harness. Anyway, I did not intend on starting a separate thread in BenKnown2's area, just trying to offer up how I fixed my issue. Thanks and I am out of his thread.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2005 09:35 pm |
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47th Post |
exsearsguy
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Now inspect that lid switch. Don't want that timer shorting out again when the warranty is off.
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