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Kemore Elite - agitates but won't spin  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 10:31 pm
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BenKnown2
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No - extended warranty.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 10:32 pm
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BenKnown2
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Should I go ahead and check the coupler, maybe its jammed??

Another thing I just remembered is that after I slammed the lid and the washer would not do anything, I realized the breaker had tripped.  I reset it, it tripped again when I went to run it.  I reset once more and it did not trip any more on the run start.  However the tub still did not spin, but gave me a humming sound. 

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 10:36 pm
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Pegi
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Would not agitate if the coupler was broken.....I would be looking closer at the lid switch first, something is not letting your motor run in reverse, either it is jammed or not enough voltage to the motor, perhaps the lid switch is shorted out some way since the breaker tripped..



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:02 pm
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exsearsguy

 

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Maybe when you slammed the lid down you made metal to metal contact somewhere around the switch. That could account for the tripped breaker. Something makes me think it is still the switch. If you get the console up disconnect the QD plug and see if your washer hums in spin.It shouldn't if you do this. You might also fashion a jumper on this plug to TEMPORARILY go around the lid switch and see if it acts differently. But be careful if you do. TAPE IT AND SECURE IT so that doesn't shake loose an exposed(LIVE) wire.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 12:22 am
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GLC



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To carry on exsearsguys advice.... To help point in direction of a jumper - you want to jump the two outside wires.  Not the middle one.  An easy way will be to use a wire with an small alligator type connection on each end and  jump the two outer wires on the quick disconnect ON THE END THAT COMES FROM THE UPPER CONSOLE.  Not the end that is clipped in the cabinet.  What he is suggesting is that you make the unit spin WITHOUT the lid switch actually in the system, ONLY AD A QUICK TEST to see if the lid switch is in fact your problem.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:26 am
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BenKnown2
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Okay, got the console off.  How do I lift the cabinet off of the locating tabs?  I feel like I'm gonna bend/break something.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:33 am
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Pegi
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Did you remove the two big S shaped clips that hold the case to the back panel???



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:40 am
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GLC



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I believe these to be the buggers that my friend Pegi is telling you about :)

Attachment: Snap1.jpg (Downloaded 62 times)



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 03:45 am
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BenKnown2
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Got the clips off.  What was holding things up was my model you have to disconnect some hoses - there is a little piece of plastic/paper that tells you to do this.  I took pics and will upload later.  Just rocked it back and voila!  After I took it off, I realized I did not need to do so, but it is good to know I can take it off easily if I need to.

I jumpered the lid switch (the two outer wires from console - not green ground in the middle).

Set water to small load and it agitated fine but when I moved it to the spin cycle it just hummed.   So it seems like the lid switch is not the problem.

What next????

Can you just advance to spin or are there some interlocks that need to be set during the cycle???

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 03:53 am
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BenKnown2
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How do I pump the water out if the tub doesn't spin?

Should the water pump out even if there is no spin?

(note: I keep trying to EDIT posts, but it says I am not logged in, obviously I am logged in bc I am making posts - an suggestions?)

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 04:06 am
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Pegi
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Grasshoppers cannot edit, per the Samurai. If your motor cannot run in reverse you will not drain or spin.  Either your motor is not getting enough voltage to run or something has it jammed like something in the pump or the tranny is jammed.  Remove the pump and see if there might be something in the pump.  If not would guess you are not getting full voltage to the motor, would need to trace back with a volt meter to see which wire is not feeding from where.  If you have a speed selector switch this could be the problem, but could be any electrical component in the washer. Try checking the motor harness where it plugs onto the motor, this may not be plugged on well, these washers have known problems with the wire harness, could be a bad, corroded connection or a wire broken inside of the harness somewhere.  This will be difficult to trace down if the harness is the problem.  Start by un-plugging all of the wires to see if some are corroded or not making good contact.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 04:21 am
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GLC



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try taking the two clips from the pump so you can remove the pump off the motor shaft.  Leave the hoses attached but move the pump away to the left and tie it off so its out of the way. There is a little hole in the leg/frame and you could stick a phillips screwdriver in there to hold the pimp back for this test.  When the pump is off the motor try putting the unit in spin again and see if it the motor runs.  If it does the pump is locked up with some thing. If you remove the hoses have something to catch whatever water is left in your wash tub.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 05:02 am
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exsearsguy

 

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EEEK! Worst case scenario. Smash lid, short lid switch to ground, timer hits spin, timer shorts out. Change lid switch and timer. Hope not, though.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 01:12 pm
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BenKnown2
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Why worst case?  Is the timer expensive?  I am guessing probably.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 01:59 pm
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GLC



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He means worse case you will need two parts instaed of one.  Don't order any thing  though till you find the problem. Did you remove the pump and try it?



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:05 pm
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BenKnown2
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No, I only got as far as the switch last night, by that time it was late and I was too tired.  I guess I will try that tonite.

What if I take the pump off and it still does not spin - what is the next item too look at?  I may be getting ahead of myself, but my time is limited and I need to make plans for things as best I can.

How can I test if the timer is bad?  

Thanks guys and gals.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:16 pm
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GLC



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if the motor is getting voltage the timer is not bad.  When you place the timer in a soin mode, use your meter at the motor harness and see if you are getting 110 volts.  Use your diagram to tell you what terminals you should have 110 volts at set in a spin cycle with lid switxch engaged.  BUT YOU ARE getting ahead of yourself.  Even when we are in a home on a service call we do one step at a time, and the most obvious ones first.  



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:30 pm
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BenKnown2
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So the next item to check if the motor doesn't spin is to see if I am getting voltage to the pump?  Or should I check elsewhere?

Is there a wiring diagram for my unit, all I have is the Repair parts list doc?

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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:36 pm
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GLC



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NO to see if your are getting it to the MOTOR, IN SPIN. The pump is not electrical.  You will want to see 110 volts to the MOTOR in spin.  Do not jump the gun.  Do what I suffested with the pump first...its only two clips to take it off and then move it to the left side and hold it out of the way for the TEST.  Snap off these two clips.

Attachment: Snap1.jpg (Downloaded 34 times)

Last edited on Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:40 pm by GLC



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 Posted: Fri Dec 9th, 2005 02:42 pm
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BenKnown2
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Sorry meant to say "voltage at motor" not pump.  Will do.

Thanks.

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