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Kemore Elite - agitates but won't spin  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 06:24 am
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BenKnown2
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Kenmore Elite - Top loading - direct drive

Model number off of Repair parts list: 110.24982300

Only other number I could find (using Samurai's diagrams): 8232493

This last weekend, we got new laminate floors put in.  This meant I had to move the washer and dryer out to the Garage just a few feet away.  After all the floor was finished, I move everything back in and started a load.  It was fine until it got to the spin cycle.  It wasn't vibrating that bad, but it was enough to bump, bump, bump the wall.  So I adjusted the load, restarted the spin, I adjusted the load, restarted the spin...at least 7-10 times.  Note, I did put felt pads on the washer feet (bc of new floor) and maybe the friction of the washer to the floor was enought to dampen or absorb these normally occuring vibrations.  Okay on to what happened next, I got so pissed at the machine, I slammed the lid down, but to my chargrin, she did not start up when I went start the spin.  I gently appologized, prayed and tryed to coax her back to her former selve, but the motor only hummed like it was hung or something.  I know, I know control myself but it was a long weekend with little sleep and alot of moving and I just wasn't having it.  Now I am really frustrated.  I thought I broke the lid switch but I could hear the switch clicking when I lowered and opened the lid.  I even reached in with the lid open and toggled it by hand.  When the switch would toggle, I could here the motor trying to turn, but it would just hum.  I let the motor sit for 30 or so minutes to cool just in case I over heated the thing, but that did not work either.

I tried to open up the washer like you diagramed in one of your posts, but my model is not exactly like that one. I can pull off the end pieces bc I don't have them. 

Maybe the switch is still bad, but I can't even get the thing apart to look and yes I already spent (wasted) the whole evening trying to get the back off.

Any suggestions, please

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 06:30 am
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exsearsguy

 

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I still think it's your lid switch. But after re-reading your post it could possibly be your coupler

Last edited on Thu Dec 8th, 2005 06:32 am by exsearsguy

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 06:44 am
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BenKnown2
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Just another piece of info - the washer is 1 year old - I have 3 kids and we wash alot of clothes , probably 2-3 loads a day.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 02:51 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You're gonna have to remove the cabinet, take off the motor, and get some eyeball and finger action on the coupler. If you really think your washer disassembles differently than every other d/d washer out there, post some photos showing how it's unique and we can help you work around it.

Last edited on Thu Dec 8th, 2005 02:52 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 03:10 pm
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BenKnown2
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I looked at the console after reading the post and the parts manual more closely and I saw that the console was held in place with "console clips".  I could see them but was unable to pop the out.  Did not seem like there was a screw there. 

I will try and get a picture asap.

Do you think it still might be the switch since right before the slam it worked, then right after the slam it did not?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 03:23 pm
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BenKnown2
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Here's the picture

Attachment: washer2 w text.jpg (Downloaded 13 times)

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 04:29 pm
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Mad Mac
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AHHH....this is the newer style console we've been hearing about. This comes off similarly to the dreaded "Calypso":yikes:.

Check the diagram at THIS LINK - clip 8 is holding the console on. You need to pop those using a putty knife inserted at the front between the console and the top.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 05:04 pm
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BenKnown2
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I assume you stick the putty knife in from the front and push the clip to the back?

Okay so once I get it open, what do I need to look for/do? 

I can probably handle the 3-4 beer options since I am rather mechanical/electric minded.

Thanks :)

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 05:09 pm
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Mad Mac
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Exactly. Once you get it open, you'll see two large brass coloured clips - these pop out, then you can remove the cabinet once you've disconnected the lid switch.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 05:12 pm
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BenKnown2
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Thanks for the tip, but I was actually refering to Samurai's post

You're gonna have to remove the cabinet, take off the motor, and get some eyeball and finger action on the coupler.

What do I need to look at and shake around to diagnose what is wrong?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 05:16 pm
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Mad Mac
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Our illustrious leader's plain man's guide to the coupler is at THIS LINK. Go to it.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 06:59 pm
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BenKnown2
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That tells me how to take the coupler out, but how do I figure out if its bad or not without actually removing the coupler?  Or is that the only way to find out?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 07:06 pm
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FatMan
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BenKnown2 wrote: That tells me how to take the coupler out, but how do I figure out if its bad or not without actually removing the coupler?  Or is that the only way to find out?Yes, BenKnown2

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 07:07 pm
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Pegi
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Removing the pump and motor and looking at the coupler is probably the only way to know for sure..



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 07:13 pm
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BenKnown2
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Alright, I will try it when I get home and let yall know what I find.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:15 pm
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BenKnown2
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Just thinking ahead, what if when I check out the coupler, its fine.  What is the next thing to look at?

Also - the pictures on the MSN Groups site have broken links on them!

Thanks.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:19 pm
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Pegi
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If the coupler is broken the washer will not agitate or spin, but it will drain, assuming your lid switch is not broken.  If the lid switch was broken the motor would not even hummm for drain or spin.  Some washers will not even agitate with the lid open, the newer ones.  The even newer ones will not even fill with the lid open. If your washer agitates your coupler is not broken...



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:21 pm
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BenKnown2
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It agitates, but won't spin.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:28 pm
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Pegi
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Then your coupler is not broken, you either have something in your pump, the tranny is siezed up or you are not getting enough voltage to the motor in the drain and spin when the motor reverses...



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 Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2005 11:30 pm
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Pegi
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If the washer is not over one year old call for warranty service...did you buy an extended warranty plan???



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