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tazmo
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Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2006 16:10 |
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Hello, and thank you for posting this informative information. My 11505 just went through the same brushes as everyone else here and if it wasn't for the info here, I probably would have dealt with an expensive service call and even more expensive replacement motor.
That being said, I looked for but could not find an apdepot part that matched the description, so I called asko directly, who sent out the part in four days.
Here is the information you will need:
alko/am appliance group
972-644-8595
Part number 8801097 @ $20.06 each (you will need two)
and a ridiculous $9.95 shipping cost.
I did find an individual selling the same parts on ebay, and even though he is in the UK, his parts were cheaper. But what I cannot understand is why you must buy the entire brush assembly as opposed to the graphite/brass insert, which is the only real part you need. I'm betting you could dig deeper and find the manufacturer and get an even lower price here, maybe, but compared to the cost of replacement motor, who cares.
Also, how long will Asko continue to stock these parts? If they guarantee the tub for 25 years, you would think they would hang onto other parts for the same period of time. And I see that Asko now carries brushless motors. Wouldn't it be nice if you could retrofit a new brushless motor into your old 11505?
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2006 21:45 |
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lzfitz wrote: I just installed the new brushes ... but the machine is giving a fairly high pitched whine. Did your's do that for a while?
themare wrote: Yeah, it was kinda a high sound for about 2 washes.
The new brushes take some time for the curvature to settle so that it matches the commutator curvature. Often you don't get optimum power out of the motor, and you may have undesirable noises. A little filing or sanding of the brush head edges may help avoid this.
And, you don't necessarily need to replace with any original part, if you're dealing with a 10+ year old machine... I have repaired some several washer etc. motors with car parts. Talking about alternator brushes...
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2006 22:22 |
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etherhuffer wrote: Oh, nearly forgot, how do you tell if the commutator is toast or not?
The commutator can be ohm-metered out: Opposite lamels, pair by pair, should be quite even readings. If your machine runs slow and unsteady with a murmur and cat-piss like smell, some winding may be smoking. That can be in the field winding too.
Repairing a burnt winding perhaps isn't a job to be done at home. It takes some motor knowledge, expertise, tools, and nerve, as well as a place where you can bake the lacquer on the new winding without ruining marital bliss.
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Sun Sep 3rd, 2006 20:33 |
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tazmo wrote: And I see that Asko now carries brushless motors. Wouldn't it be nice if you could retrofit a new brushless motor into your old 11505?
I'm afraid that the brushless motors are on direct drive machines... even if there is a brushless motor intended for the conventional belt drive, it requires a different control module. Also the size and fitting are probably different.
The brushed motor has one or more stator windings, and the brushes to feed the rotor windings. The control module then connects one or more of the field windings in series or parallel with the rotor, to achieve the requested speed and direction. there are about 10 wires going into the motor for this.
The brushless motor has a permanently magnetized rotor, and usually a multiple of three stator windings. Those are magnetized in rotary sequence by the control module, and there can be as little as four wires going into the motor. Speed and direction are variated by changing the sequence and frequency.
EDIT 29.4.2008
Now that this thread has been nailed shut, I'll sneak in posthumous clarifications (was too lazy or busy to do this before):
1) There are brushless motors for the belt drive machines, but like said before, they require a different control module. For some machines, conversion kits are available.
2) Of course there are now plenty units with a brushed DC motor and only 4 wires to it.
Last edited on Tue Apr 29th, 2008 08:52 by Keinokuorma
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schwiete
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Mar 3rd, 2007 01:24 |
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This site is great. I found the info I needed and had my Asko W620 back up and running in less than a week.
I ordered the brushes from the Appliance Group (866-223-5549) and I've attached a picture of one of the brushes with the associated part #.
Thanks again.
Attachment: brush & part number.JPG (Downloaded 117 times)
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blinkedty
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2007 21:45 |
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I had the same problem with my ASKO 10505 washer...no agitation. After reading this forum, I decided, instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a new motor, to try replacing just the brushes. Despite an intensive internet search for brushes for this European motor, I could not locate a dealer in the USA, at least one with a website listing. I did, though, find one on ebay in the UK. I figured I could take the chance and order brushes from that dealer. What a great decision. They came by post in 5 days, and plugged right in. The washer is working great again!
I see many posts about having to replace the motors on this machine. I wonder if it might have been just the brushes. Since they are not readily available in the USA, the repairman might not think there is an option. Believe me, I never thought I would be ordering appliance parts from England!
I purchased this ASKO washer and dryer set in 1996. Since then I have replaced the belt on the washer and dryer, one each. Other than some major complaints with the quality of the plastic front piece, and the lousy paint, the mechanical components have worked great.
Thank you for this forum. I helped me a couple of years ago with my dishwasher issues, as well.
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 11:02 |
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the brush in the above post can be found here:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=764414
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Trishalee
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 27th, 2007 20:26 |
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Not sure if I should start a new topic - am posting to this one because I see it is monitored and am hoping for help! I have an Asko 10505 washer that is about 10 years old - I inherited it with the house we bought about a year ago. I live in the Colorado Rockies - about an hour from Colorado Springs. A few months ago the washer wouldn't agitate or spin and we loaded it into a truck and took it to town. 6 weeks and $450 later the washing machine was back and operating. Reading this forum, I realize that it was probably the motor brushes and I could have fixed it myself, but the appliance guy said it was a circuit board and thus the huge expense! I don't want to take the machine back to the same place because I just don't trust the guy, but unfortunately he's the only shop in Colorado Springs that services Asko. I'd like to diagnose my current problem and hopefully fix it, myself. My only other alternative will be to haul it to Denver - 3 hours away. Even replacing it isn't much of an option because the units are unusually small and fit under the counter - and the counter is concrete!
Here's the problem: I have no power to the washer. I came home from being out of town and my husband complained that the door wouldn't open. (My wonderful husband is a builder but not handy at all). I got the door open by inserting a screw driver in the little slot beside the lock, but the real problem appears to be that the washer has no power. The washer, being european current, plugs into the (Asko 7005) dryer, not into the wall. The dryer is operating. The 15 amp fuses in both the washer and dryer appear to be OK (no evidence of burning). I'd appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri Apr 27th, 2007 21:12 |
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Well, guess it doesn't hurt if I answer here... no power at all would point to the control board, but could be the timer too... or something like the power cord being broken, often near the plug or at the entry point to the machine...
If you decide to tear down into it, you could examine the brush thing. If they were changed during the last year, there should be plenty left. If they weren't, and the tech fixed something else, I bet they are quite worn by now. Unless someone changed them during the first 9 years.
Follow the chain:
-Supply - certified, dryer works
-Intermediary fuse(s) - please certify that good voltage is found at the washer outlet on dryer...
-Washer cord - check continuity...
-Washer fuses - check continuity...
-Deeper and deeper, with wiring diagram if possible...
I strongly encourage you to start a new topic on this.
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Trishalee
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 27th, 2007 21:52 |
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| Thanks very much! I started a new topic, as you suggested. My husband is going to purchase new fuses on his way home. I'm not sure how to check good voltage at the washer outlet on the dryer, but will deal with that once we've replaced the fuses.
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themare
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Apr 30th, 2007 14:51 |
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| I am now in remission!!! Had my last chemo in July. I go to the Oncologist every 3 months. Thanks for asking
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kstills
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2007 13:16 |
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Hi there.
This is the first time I've paid for a forum membership, however I consider it money very well spent. My $5 payment saved me $370.00.
I have an Asko washer model 10505, and the drum had stopped spinning. I pulled the motor, and was given a price of 317 to replace it. By sheer dumb luck, when I was looking for the voltage of the motor on line, I stumbled into this exact thread.
And, of course, it was the brushes that were the problem.
However, in my case, when I pulled the brushes off (after almost ordering a new pair) I noticed one was much shorter then the other. So I pulled on the shorter one, which is when I discovered that the brushes are spring loaded (duh) and that the short one had bound up and wasn't releasing out of its holder.
To make a long story longer, I worked it for a few minutes until it moved freely, reinstalled both brushes and voila! the motor worked just fine.
Thanks for this website, and all the great information. Keep up the great work.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2007 12:26 |
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Cool, domo for the repair story, kstills! 
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carolene
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2008 17:19 |
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I have a model w660. Anyone know what brushes to order to try to fix this model?
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Keinokuorma
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Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2008 21:10 |
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The model 11505 originally discussed appears to have an FHP motor too... and the motors for your W660 and the 11505 look the same too... quite much at least.
The RCC part number for your motor is 1013788 and for the 11505, they list 1063696. Again, both are FHP, and look very similiar, although they may have different mounting to the machine.
You could call RCC and verify from them if the brush p/n 764414 fits your motor. Note that you are best off changing both even if one has plenty left.
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carolene
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Posted: Tue Apr 29th, 2008 00:02 |
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To follow up: The brushes p/n 764414 did fit the W660 perfectly. No modifications needed.
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