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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > donating money to parts house for couplers

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donating money to parts house for couplers  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 06:45 pm
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Pegi
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LOL, it is easy to crack the couplers when installing them,  please check your new coupler to see if the pins broke off or if the coupler cracked where is tapped onto the motor or tranny shaft.  If one is cracked could have been damaged when installed, is easy to do.  If the pins broke off sounds like might be a tranny doing lock up things in the dark under the washer.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 06:47 pm
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Also make sure these are OEM FSP couplers, in the white bag with red markings, I have seen people bring in generic couplers that broke after a load or two and wondered how they got thru even one partial load.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 06:51 pm
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Also be sure and double check that lid switch, it can be flakey if it is starting to break, washer will just sit there dead until open and close the lid, jarring the lid switch contacts.  The first DD washers were direct into drain, spun and drained at the same time so do not imagine spinning while draining would break a new coupler.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 07:10 pm
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Ok, the washer fills then agitates.  Pauses to set up the system to drain and reverses the motor.  Washer starts back up and drains, then when the drain time is up there is a second pause then washer comes back on, tranny has been set up, and washer spins.  If the lid switch is going flakey washer will just sit there till the cows come home dead.  Suspect turning the timer off and back on and.or opening the lid and pressing the lid switch might have activated the washer to run.  Need to check this lid switch further before we start suspecting the timer might not be doing right.  the washer has to agitate the last two minutes so set up the tranny, if the lid switch is going bad the last two minutes of the wash cycle will not take place. When it goes dead after the agitate lift the lid and close it again, if the washer starts running probably have a lid switch going bad.  Why your new coupler broke I do not know, but sounds like you installed it correctly, but make sure it is warm, if the plastic is cold they are brittle and will crack.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 07:32 pm
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A couple of things worth checking:

I once ran into a case where the lady had 8 broken couplers over an 18 month period! What I found was that the four rubber grommets on the motor mounting plate were badly worn, allowing the motor to vibrate excessively. I replaced the grommets, never heard from her again.

Also check how the machine is braking at the end of the spin, violent braking will bust the coupler.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 09:10 pm
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Mad Mac
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Motor should normally run for two minutes purely pumping water out with the transmission in "neutral", then shut off to engage the transmission into "spin". As you correctly theorise, three seconds of pumpout is going to leave the motor trying to spin with 20 gallons of standing water @ 8 lbs/ US gallon as opposed to what's left in the load after the normal two minutes of pumpout.

The coupler is essentially doing its job by breaking before excessive load is put on the motor/transmission. I'd say you need a timer.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 10:35 pm
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Mad Mac
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I'm not seeing a PC board on this model, but you've evidently got one...it's for the automatic temperature control.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 11:00 pm
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hardheaded
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Excellent. Heard that from the parts guy in town, too. He gave me one sprocket to replace the broken one, instead of selling me a second complete set. Quite merciful of him, that was.

I'm going to try to operate on the timer tonight. If the patient dies on the table :poison:  I'll drive to Longview tomorrow and get me a patient who's a little more cooperative.

 

Much thanks to everybody who responded. I was in real danger of having to buy that $1200 front-loading washer/dryer combo my wife said would fix the problem.:yikes:

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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 11:11 pm
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;)  Let us know the progress of the patient.....



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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 01:13 am
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hardheaded
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Pegi wrote: ;)  Let us know the progress of the patient.....
 

Stable condition. The patient may accidentally live after all.

I checked continuity on the wires going from the timer to the wiring connector to the motor. All OK.

Then I removed the timer. As I pulled of the gray plastic strip that goes around 3 sides of the timer a small piece of fuzz fell onto the table. It took me awhile to make any sense of the diagram on the back of the washer. The timer has contacts numbered 0-2-4-6-8-10-12. T,C,B on the table must mean Top,Common,Bottom. Most of the contacts are in the Top position during drain times. I think 8 was the one that is in the Bottom position during draining. I ran the timer around to make sure none of the plastic ridges had any defects. Then I checked continuity between the terminals for each connector between Common and either Top or Bottom. Then I blew out the connectors with each one in Top and Bottom positions. I think the fuzz ball that fell out might have been the problem.

I've run 2 short (3 minute) agitation cycles on HD. The tub drained completely each time. Scared me the second time when the agitator lurched at the start of the drain cycle.

I'm glad I didn't have time to get to Longview today. Saved about $100. I'm going to leave the cover off for a few days. I actually like the way it looks right now- kind of a Minimalistic or Green Acres motif. But, I doubt those of us at home whose sense of humor is less "well-developed" will let me keep it that way for long.

Thanks again for everybody's help/patience.

 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 03:16 am
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Pegi
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Welcome, keep us posted on developments, might as well leave the case off, faster to work on it when it mis-behaves....;)



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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 03:44 am
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hardheaded
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Pegi wrote: Welcome, keep us posted on developments, might as well leave the case off, faster to work on it when it mis-behaves....;)
Thanks for the welcome. I lurked here and on the main website a few months ago. Learned all about the guy who needed to fix his toaster for his daily muffins, the militant feminazi with the feminine garment problem, etc. Favorite quote: "Ow. My brain. You hurt it."

Just a little minor CPR on the patient tonight. Five minutes into the first real load of clothes the coupler broke again. It was the sprocket the parts guy had given me. Figured it had been on some other customer's machine in a previous life, plus sat in the bed of his truck for who knows how long. Luckily one of my suppressed multiple personalities must be a klepto- I mistakenly got home with the complete coupler I had gone to buy. I had called him back and was going to return it tomorrow. Now I'll run by and pay for it. While putting the new coupler on I turned the "coupler shaft" on the tranny with fingertip pressure in both directions. Easily moved the agitator each way, tub full of water and clothes, too. Good tranny, nice tranny.

Heard a hum later when timer went on to a new cycle. Tried turning it on/off, ran the knob around a few times. Ended up skillfully smacking the back of it with my fist. Beat it into submission, I did. Works so far. Will be ordering a new timer from the link on the Most Honorable Samurai Applicance Repair site tonight. Looks like I'll have to be present for each and every load of clothes until the new one comes in.

 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 04:42 am
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Pegi
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Could there perhaps be a loose wire, connection at the timer or in the wiring harness, these have known problems with breaks in the harness.  Might see where the motor is losing voltage when the motor hums only??



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 Posted: Wed May 24th, 2006 05:15 am
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I've replaced the coupler on my washer, but I'm having a difficult time putting the clips for the motor back on. If I put the top one on, I can't snap the bottom one on. Same thing if I try to snap the top one on after putting the bottom one on. Is there a trick to it? Or just plain luck?

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 Posted: Wed May 24th, 2006 03:44 pm
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Pegi
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Should pop right on unless the couplers are not onto the shafts all of the way, or the 6 prongs are not in the 6 holes or the rubber motor mounting grommets are not in the 4 holes correctly...sounds like the motor is not all the way onto the washer, recheck this...



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