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Whirlpool Washer Making Clicking Noise

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Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 01:27 pm

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dnelms
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Whirpool Washer Model # LSR8233JQ0

Last night while my wife was washing a load of clothes, a loud clicking noise all of a sudden appeared. I stopped the washer and could not figure out where it was coming from. I mover the control switch to spin and to try to get the water out and it did suck it out, but making that loud clicking noise again. Let it set overnight and once i started it, same noise.

What should i be looking at first? I know a loud clicking noise doesn't exactly help but it's the best I can describe. Any starting points would be appreciated before I get into taking the cover off.

Thanks

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 01:36 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Start by checking out the drive block. There's a discussion about this in here.

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Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 01:52 pm

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dnelms
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Worked on dryers before with no problem (with lots of help from the folks around this forum). Does anyone have the link to taking the washer apart to get to these parts? I'd rather wait and see something or some guidlines before just strat unscrewing stuff.

Thanks

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 02:12 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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At this stage of the investigation, just remove the agitator so you can check for metal filings underneath it.

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 02:31 pm

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dnelms
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Could not find any metal filings. Spline looks as though it's not too worn. The wife just left with the digital camera. At this point if the cycle is on spin, should this spline be rotating? After I got the agitator out I turned it back on and the noise is definately under the tub. Sounds like a spinning noise and you can hear the pump sucking out some leftover water and then when you turn it off you hear what sounds like a clutch (or brake) activating and the noise stops.

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 02:48 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Get a how did your drive block compare with the picture of the good one in the other thread?

Remove the cabinet and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Tie it off and run the washer this way to see if the noise changes.

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 03:11 pm

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dnelms
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anyway to test it without putting the cabinet back in enough to hook up the lid safety switch?

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 03:16 pm

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dnelms
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figured I could just put it back enough to test. So with the pump off the motor shaft, I still get the same noise. The drive block still has the sud nut on it and all I can see are the splines and the notches, nothing looks different than the pictures. If you think this may be the cause then I'll wait until my wife gets back and I'll send a pic.

Thanks

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 03:19 pm

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Moostafa
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Hello, my testy friend. Here in my country we are very good at, how do you Ameedicans say, African engineering. Yes, that's it, except for us it would be Afghani engineering. Eh heh, I made a funny, you see? Anyway, as part of our Afghani engineering on machinery, we frequently use jumper wires to make things run: stolen cars, anti-aircraft missles, camel prods... even washing machines. Would you like to learn of this arcane Afghani engineering art? Very well.

Simply take an insulated wire with about one half of your Ameedican inches stripped off each end. Insert each stripped end into the back of harness for the two end wires, not the middle green one, as this would cause many glorious fireworks. The washer will then think the lid is closed and will run normally.

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Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 04:49 pm

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dnelms
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Here is the pic of the drive block. The brown stuff seems to be just grease or gunk. Can't feel or see any metal filings in it.

Attachment: washer1.jpg (Downloaded 420 times)

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 04:53 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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dnelms wrote: So with the pump off the motor shaft, I still get the same noise. The drive block still has the sud nut on it and all I can see are the splines and the notches, nothing looks different than the pictures.

Did you look at the attached picture in that thread, too? You can tell whether or not the drive is stripped without having to remove the inner basket.

Next step is to drop the tranny and get some eyeballs on the brake cam:

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 04:55 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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dnelms wrote: Here is the pic of the drive block.

You posted this just before my last post. Your drive block looks fine. On to the brake cam!

Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:48 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:24 pm

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dnelms
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OK, here is a picture of the brake cam. What am I supposed to be looking for?

Thanks

Attachment: brake cam.jpg (Downloaded 413 times)

Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:24 pm by dnelms

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:50 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Looks a little boogared up, but it's hard to tell from this angle. Can you post another shot looking up at it from directly underneath?

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:55 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Wait, wait, wait. Does it make the clicking noise in agitate and spin? If so, then that's a bad drive coupler:

Slam dunk!

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 06:17 pm

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dnelms
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We have a winner!! Looks like the cemter part is fine, no wear. But the part with the pins is completely broken into.

Would you suggest buying the middle part also even though it doesn't look worn?

Attachment: coupling.jpg (Downloaded 392 times)

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 06:40 pm

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Mad Mac
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Comes as a set, two plastic pieces plus the rubber bit. You've got it apart, that's the hard bit.

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Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 07:07 pm

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dnelms
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Ok, since I dropped the tranny and have found the problem, I'm gonna put the tranny back on. Here's where I'm running into the problem. Lineup is fine, but it won;'t go up far enough to start the bolts, but seems to be hitting the spring near the brake cam. Is there any secret to getting this back on??

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:49 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Did you remove the brake and drive tube or did you just drop the transmission?

If you just dropped the tranny, then just make sure the brake cam driver on the bottom of the brake and drive tube isn't hitting the clutch spring on the gearcase. You may have to turn the drive to clear the spring.

Also, be sure the spin tube thrust washer is on top of the clutch. The tab must be facing down and in the slot of the slot on the ring.

Very carefully push, lining up the holes in the gearcase with the slots in the tub support. Then replace the three bolts through the gearcase and use your socket wrench to tighten the bolts into the tub support.

You can buy the direct drive coupler here.

Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:46 pm

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dnelms
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Yes, I just dropped the tranny. Looking at this picture, should the gold cap(?) cover the yellow spring? I'm still not getting it too go up enough.

Attachment: tranny1.jpg (Downloaded 374 times)

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