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| Fisher Paykel GWL11 | Rate Topic |
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| You have chosen to ignore bobbyoo. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10th, 2005 10:09 am |
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2nd Post |
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Ultrawoman Grasshopper
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I seem to be having a similar problem with my GWL10US machine. As far as I can tell, there's nothing on the instruction sheet hidden away in the control panel that mentions it.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10th, 2005 10:30 am |
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3rd Post |
ethicalfix
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Hi there. First thing I would do is turn the machine on and advance it to the final spin. Start the spin cycle and check to see if it drains or if it pumps the water back into the bowl on the right hand side at the top. If it does then you have a diverter valve problem. the valve is locked in the recycle mode. This may be due to something lodged in the valve or the valve may be broken. If the machine is under warranty the get you service guy in to sort it.
____________________ Remember the simple things. |
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| You have chosen to ignore bobbyooo. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10th, 2005 07:08 pm |
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5th Post |
Kiwi-nadian
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Turn power off at the wall, tilt the washer back and look in the front RH cnr, shine a torch in and give the small propellor on the bottom of the drain pump a couple of turns, if it at first feels tight, keep turning until it feels free, then advance to spin and start.  If this doesn't work, undo the 2 screws at the front of the top( under the little covers) tilt the top back being careful with the inlet hoses, having previously removed the agitator. Then unclip the plastic ring around the top and hang it to the side or disconnect spring( remember to refit spring ) from suspension. Then in one swift upward movement (not too swift) remove the inner bowl, and then you will see the pump cover. Remove the screw clamping it down and remove cap and base, now get your hand in and feel around the impellor on the top of the pump , and remove any foreign matter. Try propellor on bottom of pump to check if it is free before reassembling. Read instructions backwards to refit  Hope this helps
____________________ please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| You have chosen to ignore bobbyooo. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 06:53 pm |
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7th Post |
Kiwi-nadian
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Thanks for the feedback! This is the most effective way of making sure the drain pump is clear. There is no filter as the outside of the inner bowl is like a cheese grater, and chops up the lint to let it freely pass through the pump. Good in theory, but only if the user checks every pocket before it goes in the wash, and doesn't wash anything with coarse natural fibres, like horse blankets or sheepskin rugs . they are too thick to chop and tend to build up in clumps,.................. and the pump don't like no clumps Last edited on Thu Oct 13th, 2005 07:32 pm by Kiwi-nadian ____________________ please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2008 03:48 pm |
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8th Post |
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Notsohandyman Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I just followed the directions listed here. It worked like a charm. Checked the impeller first. Found it was a little tight, then took apart the machine. All with 1, ONE, UNO phillips screwdriver. I took the plastic housing out (one screw) and found exactly a palm size wad of lint, which was keeping the impeller from turning. It was also stopping the tub from entirely draining causing a foul smell. I cleaned everything up, made sure the "O" ring was clean and re-assembled the machine. It worked great. The earliest I could get a service person out here was in one week and cost $60 for him to show up. I had it back to going in 20 minutes. It was worth the $5 to post this message.  Thank you Samurai man.
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