- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore model 11076912693 series 90 dryer

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Printer Friendly
Kenmore model 11076912693 series 90 dryer  Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
You have chosen to ignore chris Z. click Here to view this post

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 05:05 am
   
2nd Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
The problem is either the radiant sensor or the valve coils. Both are troublemakers, both inexpensive.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 05:38 am
   
3rd Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
which of the two (radiant sensor or valve coils)  tells the igniter to heat up?  OR does it not happen that way at all?  Just wondering which I should replace first.

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 05:50 am
   
4th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
They control the gas valve, not the ignitor. You can test the radiant sensor with your ohm meter. Remove it from the burner shroud and tape the opening shut. Use your ohm meter to test continuity at its terminals. Should have full continuity. If not, or if it jumps around, replace it-- it's flaky.

If the radiant sensor tests goo, that only leaves the valve coils. Go ahead and replace 'em.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 04:33 pm
   
5th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
removed and tested radiant sensor several times while on bench.  Needle pegged and steady.. How can I test the coils?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 04:51 pm
   
6th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
Continuity would be a common test but wold not reveal anything in your case. The other test would be to rig a test cord and repeatedly cycle power to the coils-- not recommended.

Just replace 'em.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:03 pm
   
7th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
replaced the coils.  turned dryer on and dryer running,  igniter has not come on as of yet?  been running for just under 10mins..

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:15 pm
   
8th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
Ignitor came on before???  You have a new problem then, coils old or new would not cause the ignitor to not come on, look to see if you left a wire off somewhere or broke the ignitor when you checked it.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:26 pm
   
9th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
igniter was turning off and on yesterday.  i have not had the igniter out since wednesday and it was turning off and on several times since then.  i double checked the coil connections as well as the rediant sensor connection.  those were the only two items that were touched today.  I have not replaced the radient sensor.  I tested it thismoring and it appear to have continuity. needle was pegged and appeared to not flutter??  can it still be flakey?

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:31 pm
   
10th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
I would not suspect so, should be good, recheck all of your wiring and re-check the ignitor, they are very delicate and just a bump could break it.  Also could check the white plastic  thermofuse on the rear vent housing of the dryer, this could have gone bad and would kill all power to the ignitor assy.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:36 pm
   
11th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
However to make sure the radiant sensor is good you can by pass this by hooking the two wires together that attach to it, tape them together and see if the ignitor comes on.  The gas valve will not open while this is by passed tho, this is just a test to see if that part is bad, the sensor must cycle the ignitor off to get ignition.   When you turn the dryer to a heat setting and turn it on do you hear the click from the gas valve??  If not you have lost power to the gas valve assy.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:46 pm
   
12th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
Ok this is strange.  i stopped the dryer..  it was running for 25min or so cold.  i read you last two comments.  opened the dryer door, closed it and was checking for the "click"  the first time i heard a click, dryer began running, nothing.  i stopped it.  i wanted to check for the "click" agian and restarted the dryer.  this time the click sounded louder and right away the igniter came on and so did the flame????? 

Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:47 pm
   
13th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
...................flame did not stay on the long.  only as long for me to compose the last post.......it iscurrently out now... dryer still running.......

Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 08:52 pm
   
14th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
Humm, something odd in dryer land, just watch it, something might not be making good contact, might have a gas valve sticking if you hear the click and nothing happens.  If no click could have a timer or heat sleector switch getting flakey.  See what is does in the next few tries/loads.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 09:25 pm
   
15th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
Remove the vent hose and try the dryer with the vent hose off and see what happens.  Is the ignitor coming on and cycling off???  Also how are you watching this, if the dryer is not all completely reassembled the burner will not stay on, it will cycle off.  The front must be back on the dryer and wet items must be in the drum and the vent hose must not be kinked.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 09:45 pm
   
16th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
I was able to perform the readiant sensor bypass test and i was able to get the igniter to light each time i started the dryer (8 times total).  i then connectd the wires and retested.  i was able to get the igniter to light up a few times.  the times the igniter did come on the "click" was louder then when it didnt.  throughtout my testing i was able to run through cycles with heat without the lower front panel on.  i have the front panel on now and the dryer is running but with no heat.  i have a wet towel in the drum,  the vent hose is not kinked,  and I can feel quite a bit of air coming from it outside.

Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 09:55 pm
   
17th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
Sounds like to me the new coils are not on the valve quite right or you have a gas valve going bad, but let us wait on some more opinions on this from others first, the click tells you power is to the assy but the softer and louder clicks tell us a story about the gas valve not opening correctly. That is the noise of the main chamber in the gas valve opening.   I would suggest removing and re-installing the coils on the valve to be sure they are seated properly. They are electro-magnet coils and have to pull the chamber open.

Last edited on Fri Oct 7th, 2005 09:57 pm by Pegi



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 09:58 pm
   
18th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
I remember the first valve coils I changed, many moons ago. Everything went fine, thought I had it whupped, checked for proper operation for taking payment, and left. Next day got a call back: dryer wasn't heating at all. I go back over, fully expecting the problem to be some kind of usage error (because I knew damn well that the dryer was operating within design parameters when I left it!). I opened the front panel off and went straight to the burner and, lo!, a wire harness had fallen off one of the valve coils. Apparently, I hadn't snapped the harnesses into place.

Try removing and re-attaching the valve coil wire harnesses.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top  

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 10:01 pm
   
19th Post
Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts: 13120
Flavorite Brew: Sweet Iced Tea
Status: 
Offline
Also the timer has a safety relight system, it will try to re-light if ignition is not achieved every so often, however, if this is interrupted by opening the door or turning the timer off and back on there is a system that stops this cycle for a time I do not remember, so every time you open the door or reset the timer this will delay the dryer trying to re-ignite.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
Back To Top    

 Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2005 11:32 pm
   
20th Post
czahnle
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Fri Oct 7th, 2005
Location:  
Posts: 11
Flavorite Brew: what ever is cold
Status: 
Offline
should i be able to perform a continuity test through the fuse next to the exhaust termostat?  i disconnected the wires and test results fail.  could the fuse be casusing problems?

Back To Top  

Current time is 02:53 am Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it! Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page    
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore model 11076912693 series 90 dryer Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.1620 seconds (26% database + 74% PHP). 27 queries executed.

Web Analytics