| Author | Post |
|---|
PeterN
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Sep 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Mon Sep 19th, 2005 19:45 |
|
My 4 year old machine model # FWT647GHSO has stopped moving cycles. The timer moves ahead, but it only washes. It will not go into drain and then spin. I think this happend when the power went out in the middle of a cycle. I tried unplugging it for 15 minutes in the hopes that the computer would reset. I have tried running it through full cycles, but it only keeps on washing never letting new water in, draining or spinning!
What should I do next?
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 05:22 |
|
Remove the front panel, take the suction hose off the pump and remove the coins and bobby pins from the pump impeller. Good to go.
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
PeterN
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Sep 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 18:31 |
|
Samurai Man you are truly honourable! Your straightforward advice has saved me from Fridigaire Factory Service. I have made a contribution to the United Samuari Beer Fund as an expression of my gratitude!
Thank You.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 18:36 |
|
Glad I could help. And much domos for the brewskis! 
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Mon Oct 3rd, 2005 03:15 |
|
| My same machine drains but doesn't spin. I checked the pump for obstructions but there were none. The belt is still on the motor. I can spin the drum and see the motor rote.Thanks
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Mon Oct 3rd, 2005 04:59 |
|
| Drain but no-spin is a totally different problem. That's either gonna be the door latch assembly or the speed control board.
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Mon Oct 3rd, 2005 14:00 |
|
| Thanks for the reply. The door still locks, so does that rule out the door assembly part?
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 08:20 |
|
| Lock light comes on and tapping the door at the latch area doesn't kick it off? Probably looking at replacing the speed control board. Remove the front bottom quarter panel and get the tech sheet. It has a procedure for testing the motor and speed control board.
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 00:16 |
|
| I bought an amp probe and tried to follow the test procedures. I got 120 volts across pins 5&6, but the next step puzzled me. Would you suggest I order a board and hope this is the correct part based on what I've told you? It looks easy enough to install. When I get home I could respond with the directions that confused me.Thanks.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 06:18 |
|
| Most of the time, these problems are a bad speed control board. If you order a new one from this link and it doesn't fix it, you can return it.
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2005 04:54 |
|
| Hey Samuri Repair Man. You were right. I overnighted a new board and everythings copasetic. Enjoy the beers.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2005 06:48 |
|
| Cool beans, dude! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. And mucho domos for the brewskis!
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
bridget
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Thu Apr 13th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 1 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Thu Apr 13th, 2006 22:29 |
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
Remove the front panel, take the suction hose off the pump and remove the coins and bobby pins from the pump impeller. Good to go.
I'm trying to check this out on my machine, but I can't get the hose off the pump. (Just to verify--in the picture this hose is fastened with a red clamp, right?) I did manage to pry the clamp that fastens the "coin catcher" thing and, of course, dumped water all over the inside of the machine--however, there does not seem to be anything choking off the water flow in this area. Is there some trick to this that I'm missing? Thank you.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Fri Apr 14th, 2006 05:22 |
|
| The suction hose IS the coin catcher thingy. Sounds like you already removed it.
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
inadancer
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Mon Jun 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 05:58 |
|
| similar problem here at my house...my washer keeps stopping and starting through its cycle....realized today that when you push on the door it starts again. the door lock light remains on all the time....what part do i need to replace? the whole door lock/latch kit assembly with the wiring and everything? or just the door lock/switch assembly?
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1682 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 06:55 |
|
| What is your model number? With some of the older ones you need to replace one of the counterweights and some of the harness needs to be rerouted, it all comes as a kit with good instructions. Did you make sure the piece attached to the door is not broken? Last edited on Wed Jun 28th, 2006 06:56 by AccApp
____________________
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
|
inadancer
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Mon Jun 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 08:08 |
|
| model number is FWT449GFS1...the piece attached to the door (the prongs that go into the latch) is not broken...i replaced that last year and bought a spare one.....the counterweights you mentioned...is that a cement block? does it need to be removed before the actual door latch/switch/lock can be removed? Last edited on Wed Jun 28th, 2006 08:15 by inadancer
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1682 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 18:39 |
|
| The piece you need is 131888900 which comes with the new counterweight, door lock and harness. You will need to remove the old counterweight and replace it with the one in the kit. It can all be done from the front of the unit.
____________________
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Posted: Thu Jun 29th, 2006 01:49 |
|
| Part link for door latch switch and counterweight kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=820920
____________________
Love? beer.fixitnow.com
|
sammo
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Tue Jul 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | New Hampshire USA |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jul 19th, 2006 06:14 |
|
I'm chasing a similar problem with my Frigidaire (FWT449GFS1). Drains but won't spin. I started walking through the diagnostic, and got only to step 2: I removed the belt and pulled the knob. The motor runs. It says to check the timer line switch and door lock switch...all wires seem to be in place, and not rusted. Pushing on the door doesn't make it spin. Is there some way for me to tell which of these is the problem? Should I order a new door lock unit, or is there some test I can do on these parts to prove they're broken before I replace them?
Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
