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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire fwt645rhs0 won't spin... |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Frigidaire fwt645rhs0 won't spin... | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 03:36 am |
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1st Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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Ok to keep this simple... I have a fwt645rhs0 and it won't spin. The rest of the washer seems to be working...you can hear the drain pump going and the valves clicking. I have the back off and noticed a blown fuse on the board that is located on the lower left side (from rear). I thought to myself this could be a breeze to fix so I look at the fuse then the board and see its a 12A 250VAC fuse...I got 5 of them from my local electronics shop no problem right? Well after blowing all 5 fuses in the course of this diagnosis this is what I find...the fuse blows as soon as the dial is turned from the off position. I checked the motor the coil resistances all check out well with in the specs on the "schematic" I got from frigidaire...it didn't even have the fracking fuse on it. What all is on this fuse? That would be real nice to know. Then I did the old foil around the fuse...no power though not quite that stupid...unplugged the wiring harness from that board and checked for shorts to the chassis...thinking bad wire. Even with the control knob in the running position I found no indications of a short in the harness. Not saying there isn't one its just not obvious to me. So I am left with what seems to either a problem on that board (I guess spin control board?) or the timer (could be shorting internally and I wouldn't have picked it up on my chassis ground check). Is there a way to better diagnose this or is it just a swap parts out and pray game? Or am I barking up the wrong tree completely?
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 04:24 am |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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sounds like a bad Controller.. does it blow the Fuse with the Motor disconnected ? which schematic do you have ? the one with the Motor and Controller resistance tests ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 04:47 am |
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3rd Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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yep the fuse blows with the motor disconnected...forgot to put that in there as one of the 5 blown fuse tests...
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 04:51 am |
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4th Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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crap cant edit so another post... the crappy schematic I have has a timer chart (which I took about 10 minutes to try and figure out then gave up) on the top and has a very minimal diagram on the left and a table with resistances for motor and controller on the right.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 05:10 am |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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"NOTE: If the drive motor windings check open or shorted check the fuse on the speed control board. If the fuse is open, replace the motor and speed control board." 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 10:45 am |
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6th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I've never had one yet that needed a new motor when the fuse on the speed control board was blown. Yes, a shorted or possibly even an open motor winding will most likely take out the fuse. I've just not seen one of these motors go bad, except for noisy bearings in one but shorted or open no, but lots of speed control boards with blown fuses and it never works to just replace the fuse, it usually just blows instantly again. Last edited on Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 10:49 am by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 10:11 pm |
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7th Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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Well assuming I followed that tree correctly...all of my voltages on the 10 pin plug were right around 50VAC (+/- 2VAC)...the motor coils all checked out...it blows the fuse immediately, even with the motor unplugged so I ruled that out all on my own....and budgets's comment I reckon I'll be buying a replacement board. Did I see on here that there is a place that will let you return electrical parts? where is that?
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 10:16 pm |
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8th Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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Hey thanks guys...you saved me a ton of scouring the web for answers.. Two comments..when I first stared this I could not figure out how to search this forum...a more intuitive way of doing that with out registering would have been better for me and second when giving out trouble shooting trees and asking for voltages on pins its real helpful to use a picture of the plug and the pinout so we all are counting from the same end on the same plug.
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| Posted: Sat Nov 27th, 2010 04:49 pm |
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9th Post |
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beakerman Grasshopper
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Thanks again guys...part cam in yesterday and my laundry pile is already down by half!!! ...now what do you all know about automatic transmissions????
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