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dryer is on fire  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 04:34 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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   The force is telling me your heating element is grounded.  This mean it is touching the metal around it somewhere.  Why not open it up and have a look.  

   What caused it?  Maybe it happened all by itself.  Maybe you bumped into something when you had it open the last time.  Or,  A lot of the time poor venting will cause the element to overheat and sag and fail.   

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 06:02 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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     I may have misread your first post.  Somehow I thought it was glowing even though you weren't using the dryer. 

    There may be nothing wrong with your dryer.  The rear of the drum is an inch or two away from the element.  Of course it's hot enough to burn you. 

     Let it run for a while.  Does the top outside get hot?  if no then you're ok.  If yes check the vent.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 06:06 am
   
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burn_me_once
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thank you again.

I thought it odd that the element got red hot.  I thought the temperature was only suppose to get 135 degrees.  

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 06:22 am
   
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burn_me_once
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Last reply.  your patience is matched only by your wisdom

Ok I watched the dryer for a while.  sometimes on the start up I can see the coils get red hot and then they fade out.  but the discoloration is in the top center of the back panel and this is where it seems to generate the most heat.  The top of the machine under the console from the center to the right also seems warmer then it should be.  Does this sound normal or what indication should I look for to indicate I should not use this machine.

Thank you again wise one  

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 11:59 am
   
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Are you running the machine with the door open to watch for the red glow of the coils?

If you are, then of coarse the dryer is going to get to hot in certain areas. No air flow over coils with door open.

On the G.E. dryers, if you hold the door switch with door open and start the dryer you will see the red glow of the coils then they will soon go out with door open because the coils create to much heat in the back area where the Hi-Limit safety t-stat is located because of the no air flow with door open.

In all electric dryers the heating coils glow red hot - when the dryer calls for heat you get the full 220volts across the heating coil which will cause it to glow red hot then when the air temp coming out the exhaust reaches the temp of the cycling t-stat (normal around 135 - 155 degrees) the power to the coil is turned completely off 0volts until the temp goes below the reset temp of the cycling t-stat then heat comes back on.

Last edited on Thu Apr 21st, 2005 12:01 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 08:56 pm
   
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burn_me_once
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Yes initially with the door open but after a few minutes of normal operation the back of the machine got hot enough to cause second degree burns.  considering most dryers find themselves pushed up against a wall this seemed excessive.  My thought was that the thermostat was shorted causing the dryer to be running at the constant temp. of the cutout.  Does this sound possible.  Are there any other explinations for this? or is there any way to check the thermostat to test my theory?

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:15 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:          Let it run for a while.  Does the top outside get hot?  if no then you're ok.  If yes check the vent.

 

I use "the paper test" to check the vent.  I hold a sheet of paper near the air intake on the dryer.  Then I disconnect it from the vent and do the same test.  If there is a significant increase in airflow with the dryer disconnected from the vent then it must be the vent

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:28 am
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:
I use "the paper test" to check the vent.

Clever. The kidneys are strong in this one. :touched:



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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:36 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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I don't get it.... Thanks......... I think?

Ya'll sure talk funny up there.

Last edited on Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:57 am by Jedi Appliance Guy

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 04:28 am
   
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mopar X
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GE makes a kit for some of there dryers that spaces heating element out 1/4 inch from back of dryer comes with a high temp cutout fuse suposed to help the excessive heat on the back case. Air flow kit with 330 degree limit thermostat: we25x10011 Check the foam seal between the front panel and the blower housing. Make sure you have a tight seal here so air is not bypassing going thru the drum. above kit comes with new blower seal

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 12:43 am by mopar X

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 01:12 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote: I don't get it.... Thanks......... I think?

It was a genuine compliment, Jedi.  I thought that was a clever test.



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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 05:58 pm
   
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burn_me_once
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there is air flow with the or without the vent and the dryer is hot on the top as well.  Not warm hot. 

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 06:00 pm
   
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burn_me_once
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because the discoloration was present in the back of the machine to start I also now believe it is possible that the excessive heat warped the plastic support of the rear drum bearing causing the loud noise.  Is this possible? 

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 06:00 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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And what was the result of the clever paper test that prescribed by the Jedi?



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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:16 am
   
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burn_me_once
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When the paper was held up to the intake air pulled it to the intake.  When I disconnected the vent there was some difference .  The paper was pulled towards the intake with more force.  when you say check the vent.  I have ensured there is no obstruction going out past the machine back.  I have also ensured that the vent connected to the fan is clear.  Could the fan be clogged?  What am I checking for? 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 01:17 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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There's more to a good dryer vent than just being clear of lint.  It's all about minimizing airflow restriction.  Think about all the ways airflow can be choked off in your throat.  You could have a piece of chicken stuck there, that would be analogous to the lint in the vent that everyone thinks off.  But what if someone wrings your neck and chokes the snot out of you?  This would be analogous to a crushed dryer vent.  I recommend that you read up about dryer venting.

As another test, run the dryer with the vent completely disconnected.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:29 pm
   
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burn_me_once
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I have run the drier with the vent diconnected.  The vent to the outside is short enough of a run that I can look all the way through it.  I have removed the vent from the blower to the dryer back and it is clear and in good condition.  The only thing I can think of is that there might be something stuck in exit section fo the blower unit.  There seems to be plenty of air blowing through the vent but even the air is getting extremely hot. 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:03 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Couldn't pull up anything on your model number.  Re-check it.



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