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Wet clothes hanging everywhere, please help!

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Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:01 pm

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cement_skis
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Hokay, so, Ive spent the last day or so going through this forum trying to figure out what to replace on my gas whirlpool dryer (model LGB6200PQ1) and I think I narrowed it down to the gas solenoids or temp. sensor. But I wanted to get a more reliable opinion. This is what happens: when I turn the dryer on, the igniter glows, ignites the gas, and starts a flame. However, after about a minute, the flame goes out and stays that way.

Any help would ultimately lead to a pleased wife!

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Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:17 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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cement_skis wrote: ... the igniter glows, ignites the gas, and starts a flame. However, after about a minute, the flame goes out and stays that way....

does the Ignitor glow again right away ?

yes .. bad Gas Valve Coils

click on picture

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Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:33 pm

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cement_skis
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No, after the igniter lights the gas, the flame stays on for about a minute. After that, the flame goes out and th igniter doesn't glow again.

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 03:00 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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Then the Hi-Limit Thermostat may be tripping.

Have you tried it with the Vent disconnected ?

Is there good air-flow out the Vent ?

Is the Dryer Cabinet assembled?

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 05:02 am

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cement_skis
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I did try it with the vent disconnected and it did the same thing, so I know it's not a blockage issue. I also tested the continuity on the the gas valve wires and connectors and it tested good. Can they be bad even though they test OK?

The cabinet is sort of assembled, I have it semi-taken apart until I order the part(s) that I need.

BTW, thanks a bunch for all the info!

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 07:08 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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it wouldn't be the Gas Valve Coils unless the Ignitor tries to re-light right away.

The Cabinet must be assembled for correct air-flow,

otherwise the Themal devices will sense too much heat.

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 03:53 pm

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cement_skis
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Well, when I checked the ventilation, that was the first thing I did before taking the dryer apart. Do you think maybe it's the thermal sensor?

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 04:31 pm

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cement_skis
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: it wouldn't be the Gas Valve Coils unless the Ignitor tries to re-light right away.

The Cabinet must be assembled for correct air-flow,

otherwise the Themal devices will sense too much heat.

I just double checked and when the flame goes out, it just shuts off quickly (as opposed to tapering off). The igniter does not try come on or glow again.

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Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 05:31 pm

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cement_skis
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OK, sorry for the multiple updates, but I decided to do a re-diagnoses.

I cleaned up everything in the cabinet and vaccumed out all the lint. Put the cabinet back together and checked to make sure ventilation is good (it is). Then I ran the dryer (empty of course). But this time I got different results:

The igniter came on, glowed, then lit the flame. Flame stayed on for about 2 minutes then went out. After about another minute I heard a clanking sound, igniter came back on, glowed, then lit the flame again. This "clanking sound, igniter, flame on, flame off" cycle went on 2 more times before my hips got tired of laying on the floor.

Not sure what happened or what the deal is, but Im going to run a laundry load and see what happens.......

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Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 01:31 am

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cement_skis
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OK, the same problem persists...........the clothes came out a little damp and there was little heat during the second half of the cycle.

I also went out and bought an Ohm meter. I checked the resistance on everything and everything except for one sensor checked out at 0 ohms. One of the sensors in the back panel (next to the emergency sensor) read out at about 180 ohms. I dont know much about electricity, but Im assuming 180 ohms = bad sensor?

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Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 01:45 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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cement_skis wrote: .. One of the sensors in the back panel (next to the emergency sensor) read out at about 180 ohms...
Which one ?

and what's "clanking" ? the Gas Valve ?

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Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 06:48 pm

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cement_skis
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Im pretty sure it's #9. But even thought this schematic is the same model # as my dryer, it's a little off.

If #7 is the emergency sensor (the one that blows and has to be replaced when it goes off), then the sensor on my dryer (which I think is #9 would be right next to it. On my dryer both are located right next to each other, on the backside and bottom of the exhaust assembly.

Ill try to post a pic....

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Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 07:33 pm

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cement_skis
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This is the sensor..........

These are the two terminals that read 180 Ohms.......

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Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 09:30 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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#7 is the white Thermal Fuse

and, as shown on the pictorial, # 9 Thermostat is mounted right next to #7.

#9 should read 0 OHMs across the large Terminals

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 12:56 am

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cement_skis
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What about across the small (left and right) terminals? It reads at 0 ohms on the large (up and down) terminals, but 2.5 on the left and right ones?

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 01:07 am

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BrntToast
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the small terminals are a bias heater, for low heat those 2 wires energise a tiny heater within the thermostat to make the thermostat cycle off at a lower temp

you can disregard those 2 terminals and wires, you dryer would heat even if that part of the thermostat was not functioning

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 01:10 am

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BrntToast
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the silver housing to the left of your thermostats, remove it and make sure it is clean, they can fill up with lint over the years

the lid must be tilted up to remove it from the machine

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 02:26 am

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cement_skis
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That was the first thing I did. Believe me, I went through everything to make sure that there were no blockage issues. Tonight, Im going to run another cycle and document carefully everything that happens........please stay with me guys, I know this is dragging out, but no one is more frustrated than me at this point.

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 03:07 am

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cement_skis
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OK, well now the flame wont even ignite. The igniter just goes through cycles of glowing then turning off without lighting the flame. So either the gas solenoids were just on their way to going bad and are finally dead.....or I messed up a wire or something........

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Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 03:46 am

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cement_skis
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This is the newest update, with a fresh (semi-wet) load in:

The igniter lights and sets off the flame. After about 7 minutes, the flame goes out. About a minute or two after that, the igniter glows but does not set a flame. The igniter will continue to glow and shut off periodically but will not set the flame. As of now, i cant get it to set a flame anymore.

So does this mean that even though there was a flame initially, the gas solenoids could have been going bad, but still able to light a flame temporarily?

Im going to atleast order the solenoids now, because I know I atleast need that.

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