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Kenmore 70 Series Washer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 03:39 am
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John175
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I have a Kenmore 70 series washer that I purchased in 1995.  Until recently this machine has worked perfectly.  I recently replaced the agitator dog ears, followed a few months later by a motor coupler and a few months after that a drain pump that started leaking.  After the drain pump replacement I was running it through a cycle to make sure everything worked properly when I noticed something peculiar.  After the wash cycle the machine stops and then when I think it should start to drain it begins to drain and spin!  It will then refill with water for the rinse cycle.  After the rinse cycle it will do a neutral drain and then pause and then enter the spin cycle.  I do not think it should be spinning with a tub full of clothes and water after the wash cycle as this would put a tremendous strain on the transmission.  Why would it not do a neutral drain after the wash cycle yet do one after the rinse cycle?  I've tried it on Normal and Permanent press and it behaves the same way.  I just tried it on Heavy Duty cycle and it did a neutral drain after the wash cycle.  Any advice on what I should be looking for here?

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 07:08 am
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Neutral Drain is a function of the Transmission ...

unless it's very cold in the Washer room so that the Gearcase Oil is sluggish ..



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 01:33 pm
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John175
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But the transmission (neutral drain) seems to work fine when I run it through a Heavy Duty cycle.  That's what gets me.  If it was the transmission it should do it on every cycle (Normal, Permanent Press and Heavy Duty) it seems.  Any ideas?  Could it be the timer?  Does that control it switching into neutral?

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 02:16 pm
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John175 wrote: ..  Could it be the timer?  Does that control it switching into neutral?
I believe the Timer pause (shift to Spin) after Drain, switches it out of Neutral

unless it's very cold in the Washer room so that the Gearcase Oil is sluggish ..
and it's warmed-up after a Heavy Duty Cycle

see PDF page 9

787772 # 4



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 02:17 pm
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Some good background discussion of neutral drain in this topic==> http://applianceguru.com/forum2/26670.html



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 06:54 pm
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Your machine runs the motor at low speed for the normal/perm press cycles and high speed for the heavy cycle
There may not be enough tourque developed in the thrashing at low speed unless it is a very large load



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 06:58 pm
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John175
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No, it's inside the house and the temperature is always at 72 F or greater.  Is there a part that I can inspect/change to fix this or would replacing the whole transmission be necessary?  Like I said it seems to work on Heavy Duty cycle but right after the Heavy Duty cycle finishes I run another test on Normal cycle and it will spin and drain at the same time after the washing and before the rinising.  I can't figure out why it's working on the Heavy Duty cycle but not on the other two.  Any ideas since it's not temperature related?

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 07:06 pm
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kdog
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There may not be enough motion created running at low speed to reset the spin pawl in the transmission, replacing the transmission may not cure this. Run the unit at the high speed setting



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 07:15 pm
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John175
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I do not have a speed setting.  I have a knob for water level, a knob for water temp and then the large cycle selection knob (Normal, Permanent Press and Heavy Duty).

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 08:48 pm
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John175 wrote: ..  Is there a part that I can inspect/change to fix this ..

yes, there are parts that could be changed ..

I'm not sure which ones..

I'm not a master on internal transmission repair ..

You may just be able to take a look at the gear oil and change it..

but I'm not too familiar with that, either ..



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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 09:19 pm
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John175
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I found this link http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Neutral-Drain-kit/2911 for a neutral drain kit but I wasn't sure if this would solve my problem and if it would work with my model Kenmore 11092575110.  Any advice?  If this part will not work should I purchase a new transmission?  I would hate to buy a new transmissions for $150+ and then that not solve the problem.  I am waiting on the experts to give me advice.

 

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 09:20 pm
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<<<After the wash cycle the machine stops and then when I think it should start to drain it begins to drain and spin!>>>
 
**********
 
After 3 minutes of agitation---the transmission "resets" to the NEUTRAL MODE.
 
Any time that a Whirlpool / Kenmore direct-drive washer fails to *neutral drain* after 3 minutes of agitation (at room temperature) the transmission is the culprit.
 
Most servicers replace the entire transmission (less time & less mess).
 
A DIYer can opt for a direct-drive transmission rebuild kit.
 
My opinion---replace the whole trans or buy a brand new ADMIRAL WASHER at Home Depot for about $339.00
This washer is nearly the same washer as your Kenmore...
 
 
  


Last edited on Thu Nov 4th, 2010 09:21 pm by john63

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 10:03 pm
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John175
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Ok so my Kenmore machine was bought in 1995.  I found some rebuilt tranmissions on ebay for around $70.  Should I go that route or pony up the $329 + tax for the new Admiral? 

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 01:38 am
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you could try changing the Gear Oil,

may be too thick, ect..

can't hurt ..

after pulling the Transmission, take the cover off...



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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 01:50 pm
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John175
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john63 wrote: My opinion---replace the whole trans or buy a brand new ADMIRAL WASHER at Home Depot for about $339.00
This washer is nearly the same washer as your Kenmore...


If I decide to buy the new machine, is there a brand at Lowes that is comparable?  The nearest home depot is a bit of a ways away.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 01:52 pm
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John175
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kdog wrote: Your machine runs the motor at low speed for the normal/perm press cycles and high speed for the heavy cycle
There may not be enough tourque developed in the thrashing at low speed unless it is a very large load

Hrmm, well I did run all my test runs with no clothes in the washer.  Do I need to run the test load with some clothes in there to generate higher torque?  I figured it should work the same with no clothes.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 06:26 pm
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John175 wrote: john63 wrote: My opinion---replace the whole trans or buy a brand new ADMIRAL WASHER at Home Depot for about $339.00
This washer is nearly the same washer as your Kenmore...


If I decide to buy the new machine, is there a brand at Lowes that is comparable?  The nearest home depot is a bit of a ways away.

Home Depot has free shipping

and last week, the Amana (Whirlpool) DirectDrive was on sale for $ 259

http://applianceguru.com/forum9/27848.html


 

a few at Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pl_200+400_4294857977+5003701_4294937087_

the (2) Ropers are Whirlpool DirectDrive

The Maytag is the newer Whirlpool Transmission
(no one nows reliability)



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 Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:15 am
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John175
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Home Deport started running some new specials.  I noticed one washer stood out to me.  It was a GE 4.3 cu. ft. stainless steel tub washer for $299 with free delivery.  What do the experts think of this washer?  Is it a direct drive system?  It seems like a good price but it's the first top loader that I have seen w/o an agitator.  Here is the link http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances-Laundry-Clothing-Care-Washers-Top-Load-Washers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg5Zbv5i/R-202529431/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 The price seems good but I wanted to get the experts opinions.

Please advise

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 Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:18 am
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john63

 

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I would avoid the GE washers...

Home Depot has a sale on their Maytag washers for $249.

Last edited on Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:19 am by john63

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 Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:22 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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I agree

http://applianceguru.com/forum9/28432.html



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