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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore HE2+ F28, F22, F24, F21, F34 Error Code |
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| Kenmore HE2+ F28, F22, F24, F21, F34 Error Code | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 11:50 pm |
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1st Post |
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chips2002 Grasshopper
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Hello, I am having some issues with my Kenmore front-loader washer (model 110.47512600). I have been using this washer without any issues for about four years. A couple of days ago, my wife put a full load in the washer (clothes, bedding sheets, and a rug). Towards the end of the rinse cycle (6 mins to complete) the washer stop turning and is idle. The timer does not countdown nor does the washer do anything so my wife pressed the stop button and tried to end the wash cycle. She tried to remove the clothes from the washer, but the door was locked. I removed the plug and attempted to open the door without any luck. I was searching online and found a service manual. I managed to open the door manually and perform a diagnostic test and got the following codes: F28 (Serial comm. error bet MCU & CCU) F22 (Door lock error) F24 (Water temp sensor error) F21 (Long drain) F34 (Load inside drum during cleaning washer cycle) I attempted to start the washer again. The washer sits idling and the counter doesn’t count down. Also, the door is locked even when I press the stop button. If I press the stop button twice the “add a garment” light blinks and the door locked light is still lit. The washer stays frozen, and I can’t do anything. I have to manually open the door to unlock it. Actions I have taken to remedy the problem: 1) Removed the drain filter and got all the water including some debris (paperclip, coins, dirt, etc) out of the washer and filter. 2) Tested the door switch and found that the resistance was different from the manual a. DL3 – pin 2&3 – 60 ohms b. DL3 – pin 1&3 – 118 ohms (suppose to be 60 ohms) c. DS2 – door closed – 0 ohms d. DS2 – door open – infinite 3) Tested resistance on pressure switch, line filter, drain pump, temp sensor, and drive motor with readings within tolerance. The question I have is if the door switch will clear the error codes I have listed above. The only error I am concerned with is the F28. I feel the CCU or the MCU might be the culprit. Is there a way to check that the CCU or the MCU is faulty? If I need to replace one of these units, I am thinking about buying one of the older style washers. These new front loaders are high tech, difficult to troubleshoot, and expensive to fix if broken. Let me know what you guys think. I would like to hear your suggestions and opinions. Thanks!
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| Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 12:42 am |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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When you got the F28, were all the panels back in place? If not, you'l get F28s and possibly other errors, too. See this post==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/27/troubleshooting-tip-when-working-on-a-kenmore-he2t-whirlpool-duet-sport-washer-re-door-panels-f28/ Does sound like you need a new door latch assy==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Latch/1515091?modelNumber=110.47512600
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 02:41 pm |
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3rd Post |
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chips2002 Grasshopper
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Thanks for your reply! The front bottom panel was not installed when I performed the diagnostic test. Those that also need to be installed.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 02:24 am |
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4th Post |
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chips2002 Grasshopper
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Alright, I replaced the door latch and it is still doing the same thing. I checked the resistance and it is the same as my old one. I checked for codes and it now shows F28, F22, F24. When I took the outlet for a couple of days. When I plug the power in the outlet, I hear the two clicks as you mentioned. I don't know what to do now. I would like to hear any recommendations. Thanks!
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| Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:55 am |
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5th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Check the connector harness to the thermister that is located in the bottom uf the tub/sump area
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 06:35 am |
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6th Post |
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chips2002 Grasshopper
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Thanks for the reply. Do you have a picture or describe the connector in more detail?
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| Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 05:43 pm |
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7th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Part #24 in diagram Attachment: K0603006-00006.png (Downloaded 22 times)
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 03:15 pm |
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8th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Diagram link Thermistor part link==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Sensor/906492
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 08:29 am |
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9th Post |
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chips2002 Grasshopper
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So could a bad thermistor cause all these problems. I am away from my home right now so can't check the harness. I will let you know once I get this checked out. Thanks.
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