CD5000
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 |
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| Posts: | 2 |
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About 2 weeks ago, the dryer became completely unresponsive and we have three separate machine control boards. The original board causes the control locked LED to stay on, as well as several other LEDs to be dimly lit. The second board causes no LED to turn on, and was completely unresponsive. The third machine control board causes a completely different set of LED's to stay on dimly, and the controls are again, non-responsive. I used the techsheet to perform tests on the console control board, and none of the buttons are shorted, and all their prescribed tests passes with flying colors. The tests included the button and rotary selector functionality tests, and I used a pretty decent multi-meter in the diode and Ohms settings. Are there other tests that I can run on it? I tried other continuity tests on the ribbon cable and on the console board and it worked fine... and tested all the LED's and they worked fine. I tested continuity in both the ohms and diode settings to make sure there weren't any shorts anywhere else on the board, but I couldn't find any. I even took the rotary control swtch and tested it's continuity separately and here is what I found. Using the standard code on this website... http://www.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/HTML/Encoder/Absolute/SRGA/SRGAVC0301.html
Heavy = 1
Normal = 9
Bulky = 10
Casual = 23
Delicate = 24
Quick= 12
Touch up = 5
Timed dry = 6
The 6th terminal on the switch is a dummy so the one adjacent to it would correlate to terminal 5.
What is the likelihood that appliance parts pros would send two defective boards? Well, the first one they sent looks like it was a refurbished part with one of the relays manually replaced. The second one looks like an actual new part. My other concern is, how delicate are these control boards? The bubble wrap they used was completely insufficient, and it looks like both boards spend a lot of time in the box being tossed around, considering how the bubble wrap was popped and crushed on the corners, and parts of it is scuffed. Also is the pink antistatic bubble wrap sufficient antistatic protection? It's very dry in SW Idaho, and the pink antistatic needs moisture to be an effective antistatic coating, and I'm afraid it might be too dry in Idaho for it to be a decent antistatic coating. Why won't they send it in those metallic grey bags that acts as a Faraday cage, even to rule out that possibility?
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