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Kenmore Elite HE3t Model 110.450962400  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 11:55 pm
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cctxrookie
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Hi, I have a Kenmore Elite that will not run. I try to start it and hear about 6 clicks, like its trying to lock the door and then get a failure code. How do I test the door switch? Thanks in advance for the help.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 12:58 am
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Tronicsmasta



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on these models we find the relay goes bad on the board. but to test it, remove the door lock.

i went wayyy overboard on making this :) this is to Ohm out the door switches in the door lock. door switch has latch pushed into the switch and is in locked position



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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 01:10 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Nice diagram, TM!

cct, the other thing to check is the leetle beety nub on that latch assembly. See this post for details==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/08/special-samurai-repair-washer-repair-tip-whirlpool-duet-or-kenmore-he3-washer-wont-start-or-run/



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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 02:57 am
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cctxrookie
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Thanks for the help guys. Is it better to pull the switch down through the bottom, or do I have to take off the front?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 03:08 am
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Tronicsmasta



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no.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 03:12 am
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cctxrookie
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Thanks again for the help. I'll try it.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 03:16 am
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Tronicsmasta



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i will provide you with the full service manual if you upgrade to an appliance apprentice. it will give you much more incite on how to be SURE its the door lock

http://apprentice.applianceguru.com



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 03:37 am
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cctxrookie
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I checked my switch per your awesome diagram. From left to right on top, 1st measurement checked good, middle checked good (60.6 ohms) & last measurement was open. Bottom left was 124 ohms & bottom right was open. I did as you instructed, inserted the door lock and tried to start a cycle. I heard the 1st click then unplugged. Was that correct, is my switch bad? Thanks again.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 03:45 am
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Tronicsmasta



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well the door lock has to lock before you can read the bottom switches. if its just clicking up in the back top of the machine then i assure you, you have a bad ccu.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Module/1164545



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:02 am
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cctxrookie
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I've upgraded to apprentice. Can you send me the service manual. Should I check anything else on the CCU before spending the $200.00? Thanks,

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:11 am
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Tronicsmasta



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Pm'd Service Manual

Please see pages:
page 27 is location of door lock.
page 31 is how to access the door lock... just like i posted.
page 32 has a warning on putting the door lock back in...
page 41 shows the pin outs for the door lock solenoids.
pin 3 to 1 at the control, measure voltage... it should be 120v when your hearing the clicking. its a bit tough to get your meter leads in it... but if you see 0v, then your relay isn't closing.
page 46 has the locking and unlocking routine.

any questions, come back here!



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:20 am
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cctxrookie
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Thanks again. I'll try to download the manual.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:16 pm
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cctxrookie
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I received my CCU from RepairClinic and installed it, removing one cable at a time and connecting it to the new CCU. I powered up and push Normal cycle, but nothing happens. I tried running the test, but after pushing all the buttons I don't get the C00 as I should. Can anyone help me? Thanks.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 04:21 pm
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From your first post. What was the 'failure code' ??

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 09:55 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
Nice diagram, TM!

cct, the other thing to check is the leetle beety nub on that latch assembly. See this post for details==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/08/special-samurai-repair-washer-repair-tip-whirlpool-duet-or-kenmore-he3-washer-wont-start-or-run/


cctx, did you check that nub on the door latch assembly?



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 03:14 am
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cctxrookie
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Yes, the nub is there. Before I could run a cycle and the machine would try to start and then give me the d FL code. Now I push normal cycle and don't get any response from the machine. If I press start, the handwash/delicate light blinks & shows 2 hours in the time display.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 06:47 pm
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What does the catch on the door look like....... Is it all there?? It is difficult to install the wrong connectors unless you pushed the connectors too hard and bent the alignment fins........Even to this day, and I have changed a few, I still mark the connectors and the old C.C.U., to help with the new install.        Your tech sheet will  have a schematic that you can use to verify the correct connectors to the C.C.U. ................

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 05:19 pm
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cctxrookie
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I finally got a cycle to work, but it seems like my front control isn't working properly. the only cycle I can get to work is heavy wash. The door does lock and the cycle runs, but I can't adjust time or anything else. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for the help.

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