Kenmore electric dryer model # 110.96320100 - The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

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Kenmore electric dryer model # 110.96320100

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Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 12:30 pm

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Anitabreak
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Initially, dryer would not run, breaker & power outlet voltage checked ok. Timer would countdown with audible clicks when in a cycle & door shut. Began Continuity check at Thermal cut-off #3389946, High limit T-stat #3390291, T-stat low end 660039 and Heat element leads, detected break at thermal fuse 3392519. Replaced it, dryer ran for a short cycle and then would not run on a re-start. Thermal fuse 3392519 blown again.

Consulted Appliantology Forum to proceed. Shop Vacuumed and blew out all exhaust ventings, lint traps, heat element cage. Removed heat element and cage to inspect for internal arc burns or debris, none. Removed drum to vac clean motor... checked for free moving armature and intact wire leads. Left dryer exhaust OPEN to room, Left lint screen OUT, by-passed thermofuse wire leads to view motor operation: smooth, no noise and forceful air output from exhaust vent. Replaced drum. Cleaned blower wheel.

With vent still OUT to the room: Replaced thermofuse: Dryer runs. Next day did a short dry on damp clothing. Dryer ran for that 10 minute cycle, then would not run again. Thermofuse 3392519 was blown again.

Please help,

Thank you

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Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 01:08 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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Is the exhaust strong out the back of the dryer? Have you checked to see if there is a partial short at the heating element? Remove one of the element wires and test continuity from element to casing.

It might only short after it gets out as well.

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Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 02:01 pm

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Anitabreak
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Pardon, I omitted the following: continuity checked OK off of heating coil leads when taken OUT for inspection...

In by-pass or with new thermal fuse: NO heat when in "Air Dry" and motor turning. Heater does NOT come ON unless heat cycle selected AND motor turning. Observed normal temp cycles: hi temp cut-out and low temp cut-in

There IS "forceful air ouput from exhaust vent".

There is NO continuity from element lead, wire off, to element casing.

Could it be motor switch # 3388235? If so, how do I test?

Thank you

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Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 04:33 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Anitabreak wrote: .. Next day did a short dry on damp clothing. Dryer ran for that 10 minute cycle, then would not run again. Thermofuse 3392519 was blown again...

is that with the Vent connected ?

YES ?

then you may have a Vent problem ...

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 4.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99

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Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 09:33 pm

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Anitabreak
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Dryer Exhaust has/ is Not connected to vent since problem and diagnostics began. It remains Open to room and has "forceful air output". FYI: All venting has been thoroughly cleaned and tested with shopvac blowing thru each end

Ran Empty Load, Timed Dry, High Heat
while in by-pass of thermal fuse# 3392519
with an analog metal Temp Probe inserted into dryer exhaust port
reached 180 degrees, did NOT cut-off

can't explain previously described heat cycle unless replacement fuse was actually in place rather than by-passed

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 01:07 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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may be a bad Operating Thermostat

660039 / 341146 / 694674

click on picture

694674 Instruction Sheet

ORIGINAL THERMOSTAT        TEMPERATURE RANGE        SETTING       TERMINAL CHANGE REQ’D

341146                                            150                           D                   NO
660039                                            150                           D                   NO

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:06 am

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dlsjr1979
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I ALWAYS replace the operating/cycling thermostat with a thermal fuse failure (unless the element is shorted to ground). The thermostat should cycle the element off at 160F degrees max. The thermal fuse is rated at 91C (or 195.8F). They are mounted side by side, so in theory, the thermostat HAS to fail for the fuse to open.

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:34 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good advice, Master dlsr!

Anita, be sure to check the dryer vent exhaust hood, outside the house. If it looks like this, that thermal fuse will pop every time:

Clogged dryer vent exhaust by Zenzoidman, on Flickr

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 09:18 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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"Fluffy ... where's my Fluffy ? ... "

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 05:40 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Don't you fret none-- with just the right lightning strike, that fluff will turn into Frankenkitty==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/08/01/war-story-slow-drying-dryer-and-frankenkitty/

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Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 12:04 pm

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Anitabreak
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Hope the guys found their kitties.

Follow up FYI: Replaced operating/ cycling T-stat along with new thermal fuse. It's working... THANK YOU

MASTER dlsjr1979: your info should be on the FAQ page!

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