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Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 02:02 pm
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GF08
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This is a very basic, two-button dryer.  No frills.  It's a top filter dryer, about five years old.

The first thing I noticed last week was that the timed drying stopped working.  The dryer was tumbling, but the dial was not advancing to the off position.  I had to manually turn it off.

The next thing I noticed was, that after an excessive amount of drying time, my clothes were not dry.  (I was attempting to dry them on the low heat cycle.)

So, I did a little research, and here is everything I now know about my dryer:

1.  The timer doesn't advance.

2.  There is no heat getting to the clothing.

3.  The air dry doesn't seem to work, as I tried it yesterday on a whim.  The clothing still isn't drying after 20 minutes of air dry.

4.  I purchased a multi-meter and attempted to test ohm levels on certain parts, though I don't know if I'm doing that right.  Some advice says certain parts need to be in a certain range, and some advice says as long as there is some activity, the part is good.  I tested: Thermal Cut Off, Thermostat, and one other part that I can't recall.  I did not test the heating element because I'm not sure how to get at it.  The Thermal Cut Off and Thermostat registered about 2.3 ohms each.  The other part also registering activity.

5. There is forceful air blowing out into the "exhaust pipe" and nothing appears to be clogged.

So, what do I do next?  I don't want to replace things part by part until it works again.  It's a cheap dryer and I don't want to spend more time and money on it than it's worth.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 05:33 pm
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OK

Model 110 = mabe by Whirlpool

110.xxxxxxxx    ? ?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 02:27 pm
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GF08
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Sorry - it just says 110 on my paperwork.  It's a Kenmore Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity Dryer.  I don't see any other model numbers on it.

It is exactly like this one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02669422000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

(Model # 69422 if the link doesn't work)

 

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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 03:02 pm
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Difficult to diagnose without a full model number. It should be on the tag inside the dryer door.

But that notwithstanding, I'll try to get you started.
First bet is to check the thermal fuse, second the heating element. Once again without the model# it's dicey, but I'd bet the back panel comes off with 6 or 7 1/4" screws.
Use your meter to check.


http://applianceguru.com/forum2/8.html

Last edited on Sat Oct 16th, 2010 03:03 pm by ROBBYRIG

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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 03:32 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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GF08 wrote: Sorry - it just says 110 on my paperwork.  

The Ten Commandments for Reading Appliance Model Numbers


1) Thou shalt read the model number directly off the manufacturer’s tag affixed to the appliance. 




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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 06:08 pm
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Okay - 110.63102101

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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 06:37 pm
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May have a couple things going on:

- timer not advancing even in air dry/fluff mode? Most likely a bad timer. Confirm whether or not the timer motor is getting voltage during the cycle. If so, bad timer==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Circuit-Board-or-Timer/909728

- no heat: may have lost a leg of the 220v (may also be a causative factor in the timer problem). Measure for both L1 and L2 at the dryer terminal strip in back with the dryer plugged in. Warning: Voltage and potentially deadly amperage are present. Fire in the hole! Fry yo ace if'n you get careless.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 16th, 2010 07:08 pm
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110.63102101 Wiring Diagram



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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 07:54 pm
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GF08
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Let's pretend I've never repaired a dryer and I'm not an electrician.

The back is off the dryer. The meter is in hand. I can visually identify the Thermal Cut Off and the Thermostat. I also know where the Heating Element is.

Question 1: What should the meter read if the Thermal Cut Off is working fine?
Question 2: What should the meter read if the Thermostat is working fine?
Question 3: How do I get to the Heating Element?
Question 4: What should the meter read if the Heating Element is working fine?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 09:48 pm
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GF08 wrote: 1.  The timer doesn't advance.

2.  There is no heat getting to the clothing.

3.  The air dry doesn't seem to work, as I tried it yesterday on a whim.  The clothing still isn't drying after 20 minutes of air dry.

1) Timer won't advance in Auto-Dry Cycle unless the Heater is working ...

2) could be a bad Heating Element (should read about 10 ohms to 20 ohms)

3) Air-Dry doesn't use heat, and wouldn't dry in 20 minutes

I'm not sure how to get to the Heating Element on that model



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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 12:06 am
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All the items you previously posted should read "closed" when checking for continuity except for the 2 small leads on the operating thermostat which will be on the left side located right beside the thermal fuse.

Make sure your disconnecting at least one of the wires to each item when checking continuity.


Your heating element is held on with (2) 1/4" screws...1 on each side.




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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:08 am
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appl.tech.29501 wrote:
... except for the 2 small leads on the operating thermostat which will be on the left side located right beside the thermal fuse.


if the operating thermostat is cold/cool then it should also read closed with one 1 lead off no?



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 05:48 pm
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GF08
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I still haven't fixed my dryer, and it's just too long. Here's what I've discovered.

1. Thermal Cut-Off - Ohm meter reads 2.1
2. Thermostat,221F - Ohm meter reads 2.1
3. Heater Element - Can't seem to get the wires disconnected, but when I touch the meter tips to the metal plate in between the two coils the Ohm meter reads 2.1

Does this mean all of these parts are fine?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 06:01 pm
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GF08 wrote: ... Ohm meter reads 2.1

probably would read 2.1 when the probes are held together ...

no need to disconnect the Heater Element, just put a Probe on each Element connection



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 08:36 pm
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SEE POST 6 IF YOU DONT HAVE 220volts YOU DOn't GET HEAT AND MAY NOT GET TIMER ADVANCE. COULD BE AS SIMPLE AS A BREAKER OR NOT PLUGED IN ALL THE WAY yes 220 breakers can and do trip only one side turn it off and back on even if it looks like it is not tripped.with it pluged in you should set your meter to check ac volts and 250 minimum and you will be checking where the cord is attached to the back of the unit **** BE Careful IT IS ON **** check the two outside wires should read 220-240 if you also check the center wire and each one of the outer wire one at a time you should get about 110-120 if not you found the problem bad plug, cord ,or breaker

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 09:56 pm
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Okay, I flipped the fuse back and forth in the fuse box, though it wasn't tripped. I started up the time on 30 minutes high heat. After ten minutes, the dial had advanced to 20, but the dryer was not hot.

Can you give me mmore detailed instructions as to how I check the voltage in the back of the unit? Do I just rest the meter probes to each wire (outside)?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 08:18 pm
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GF08
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Another question, and this is probably a stupid one, but, if the heating element doesn't get warm when we're running the dryer, does it mean that that is the problem?

All parts run the 2.1 ohm. If someone could tell me what the actual ohm readings should be, I could figure out which part wasn't working right. Does anyone know the answer?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 09:41 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: GF08 wrote: ... Ohm meter reads 2.1

probably would read 2.1 when the probes are held together ...

2.1 OHMs is Ok

should read 0.0 , but if the meter reads 2.1 when the probes are held together, then you must sutract that number from the reading ..

 

Voltage reading on the Terminals on the back of the Dryer..

yes, but make sure meter is set for volts AC

see: http://applianceguru.com/forum9/3354.html

 

 

 



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