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maytag dryer ignitor amp draw  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 08:51 am
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Nicky
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I looked at a maytag gas dryer that was igniting for a few seconds and then loses the flame. The coils are good and the ignitor is making a rattling or buzzing sound. I've actually never come across an ignitor doing this. The amp draw on the ignitor is 3.5 to 3.9. What is the correct draw and is this ignitor buzzing a common problem with a failing ignitor?

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 01:08 pm
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Generally on dryers the amp draw of the ignitor is around 3 amps, but this doesn't matter.   Dryers don't work off the amperage draw like ranges do.

If the ignitor glows and ignites the flame the first time then cycles off and you see the ignitor glow again then go off and flame doesn't come on, you have bad gas valve coils, (the electrical windings break down when then heat up after few cycles, sometimes after the first cycle if the coil is getting real bad).

The rattling noise you are hearing is not the ignitor, it's the gas valve chattering trying to open when all the coils aren't working correctly.

If you take an ohm reading on the coils when they are cold they will show that they are OK.   Check them again after running the dryer and when it stops lighting the burner quickly remove the front and check the coils again.  You will find one that is open, (no real need to do this, your gas valve coils are the problem and they come in a kit with both coils so no need to determine which one is causing the problem).



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 01:34 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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what  ^he^  said    :contract:



click on picture



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 03:03 am
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Nicky
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The first thing I did is replace the coils and the buzzing still occured, so I know it's not the coils. It does ignite the first time for 15 seconds or so and then the flame dies along with the ignitor.   I do wait a little bit for the ignitor to glow again and it doesnt seem to call for heat again until the dryer is stopped and restarted. I could be wrong on that, but I did wait at least 30 seconds or so.There was even an occurance one time after the ignitor died and there was some gas seepage coming from the valve. Is it 100% that it's not the ignitor that is the problem? I even toched the valve during the rattling and it didn't seem to resonate from there as much as at the base of the ignitor. I could be wrong about that also. Thermal fuse is good, Exhaust airway is clear. Any thoughts on this? thanks

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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 03:46 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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The Dryer Cabinet needs to be assembled for correct air-flow
and so that the over-temperature devices don't trip.

 
Has this Dryer worked OK up till now, or has it been in storage for any length of time ?



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 04:25 am
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Nicky
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The dryer has worked until now. It has a strong air discharge and I blew the whole system clean also.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 12:09 am
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Nicky
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Is ther a chance of the actual valve being bad or the radiant sensor partially being open? If it's not the igniter and the coils are new what else can be making this buzz and shutting down the system? I'm going back soon to check it out again. thanks

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:13 am
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Tronicsmasta



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had one today where the ignitor would stay on for over a minute then it would finally release the gas. i replace the radiant sensor because it would have caused the ignitor to go bad. the original complaint was that it was intermittently heating... we would watch it and it would start when it wanted to. i opened the radiant sensor to find the contacts partially shorted and blackened.

the buzz unless its cabinet related, can be caused by coils or valve. if you replaced the coils and still getting the buzz from the valve one of springs inside the valve is probably bad and that would explain the "seepage" of gas.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:31 am
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Nicky
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Thanks. The burner chamber did show signs of there being a fire recently. There was a little burned lint right below the ignitor and the rest of the dryer was filthy and I did clean the whole thing out. Could the flame have damaged the radiant sensor? I've actually never come across a bad valve yet and I'm hoping it's the sensor maybe being faulty and shutting down early but not being able to completely switch off. Anyway, I will know more when I go up there again but it sounds like you may be right about the valve.

Last edited on Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:32 am by Nicky

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 Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:38 am
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Tronicsmasta



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the radiant sensor is pretty cheap and if you suspect it being an issue go for the replacement... its one of those things us techs forget about and haunts us :)

when you are having the problem you can measure voltage on it.. should be 0v closed (ie the ignitor is on) and when is open should be like 40-60v something like that.. i never actually measured it...



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 06:57 pm
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Nicky
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I dismantled the gas valve and there was a loose pin that came un-pressed from one of the towers and when the valve tried to open it was impeding with it and rattling around. Looks like this pin stops the stem on the valve as it rises into this coil tower.  I got a new (used) valve and it works fine now.

Last edited on Tue Nov 9th, 2010 06:58 pm by Nicky

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