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Whirlpool LG7801XS--won't run!  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:16 pm
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matth2
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I'll test whether I'm getting 120 at the motor, but as the motor is brand new (I replaced it monday), I'm not very worried about it being good.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:21 pm
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kdog
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When you installed it, did you remove a blue wire from the harness that goes back to the overload protector? and then attach the blue wire from the dryer harness directly to the overload?



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:31 pm
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matth2
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weird. It reads ~30 volts!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:32 pm
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matth2
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yes, i removed the blue wire that came with the motor, and replace with the one from the harness.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:55 pm
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kdog
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matth2 wrote: weird. It reads ~30 volts!
measure across T-W



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:03 pm
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matth2
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123

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:23 pm
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kdog
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That contact need to be closed for the motor to run, 123v means that it is open - can you jumper it and check for voltage at blue and white motor wires again



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:32 pm
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matth2
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Same as it was--33 V

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:33 pm
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kdog
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Blue to ground?



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:39 pm
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matth2
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I'm not sure I understand the Q--I treated the blue wire as hot and the white as neutral. Should I swap?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 09:46 pm
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kdog
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No - measure the blue going in to the motor to ground, if you have full voltage there, you may have a bad neutral somewhere (bad connection, broken wire etc)



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:00 pm
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matth2
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still reads ~33-34V!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:02 pm
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kdog
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Try the White at the motor to ground



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:03 pm
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kdog
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BTW - you still have T-W jumped, yes?



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:05 pm
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matth2
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I have T-W jumped; and the white to ground gives me ~10V

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:08 pm
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kdog
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Somehow you are losing power between the W contact on the timer and the blue feeding the motor, measure from the blue at the motor to the W contact - check wire for breaks etc



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:10 pm
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matth2
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leaving the T-W jumpered?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 10:11 pm
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kdog
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Yes



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 Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 10:48 pm
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matth2
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T-W to the blue motor lead gave me 1.3 V!

I also tried BU instead of T-W, and I got 123V.

From the earlier test across T-W, where I was getting 123V, and you said that showed it's open and should be closed, doesn't this point to a problem in the timer?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 12:17 am
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kdog
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From the BU terminal, power then goes through the push to start switch (r1 - r2), once the button is depressed, the relay coil should hold it closed - keeping one meter probe on the BU terminal, touch the other probe to each side of the switch, then to T, then to W etc - the point where you see line voltage (120v) is where the circuit is open



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