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Whirlpool LG7801XS--won't run!  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 05:46 am
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matth2
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So my dryer quit last week. The symptom is that I press the start button; it hums momentarily and then nothing.

Long story short, I replaced the motor (which now includes the starter switch), and I've tested the main switch, the door switch and the thermal fuse. All seem good. But it still has the exact same symptoms! I am at a loss...any other likely culprits?

-matt

(PS--I now have a likely perfect dryer motor if someone in the SF Bay Area wants to make an offer on it)

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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 08:34 am
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Tronicsmasta



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can you take a picture of your wiring diagram?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 03:29 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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FYI for others coming along reading this: if you buy your appliance parts through the parts link in the topics or in the search boxes at the top of the page or in the sidebar, you can return them for a full refund within 30 days, even after they've been installed. :)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 04:12 pm
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matth2
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sure...I'll post it tonight.

(by which time I'm sure I'll figure out how to attach images)

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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 04:28 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Grasshoppers can't attach images but you can use a free online image hosting service and then post the links here.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 04:22 am
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matth2
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here it is:

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 04:24 am
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matth2
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yikes...gotta get my code right. Later

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 05:33 am
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matth2
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OK, let's try this. The wiring diagram can be viewed at

http://www.matthaber.com/wiring_diagram.jpg

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 05:36 am
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OK, so .. where's the "hum" coming from ?
inside the Console, or from the Drum Motor ?

If it's from the Drum Motor, try running it with the Belt removed.
 



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 07:01 am
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matth2
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Console.

Belt is removed, since I removed the drum to replace the motor (and fan)

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 02:07 pm
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It could be the Start Switch or the Timer

Some electrical tests would need to be done.

 



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 04:20 pm
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matth2
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The hum is very low--I wonder if it's just the sound of the solenoid being powered, and is normally masked by the other sounds of the dryer? I ran a continuity test on the start switch, and it shows continuity when actuated (though I didn't test with power on, so I can't prove what happens with the solenoid actuated)

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 06:10 pm
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Try measuring the T-W contacts on the timer for continuity, should be closed when dial is set in mid-cycle, I seem to remember these opening up causing many a mis-diagnosed motor replacement



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 06:38 am
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matth2
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that might be it. I'm not getting any continuity when I span T and W on the timer, at any point in the cycle.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 07:01 am
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kdog
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Jumper to test - some of those timers are nla now - if jumpering the T-W makes the dryer run, note the part # on the timer and we'll help you find a replacement



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 04:07 pm
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matth2
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OK, sounds good. Other than overdrying the clothes, is there any risk of manually operating the dryer with the T-W jumpered?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 06:18 pm
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matth2 wrote: ... Other than overdrying the clothes, is there any risk of manually operating the dryer with the T-W jumpered?
It looks like the T-W controls the Motor, and is an "extra" Switch,
that is normally closed in all of the Regular Cycles, and in the Permanent Press Cycle,
but is "pulsed" at the end of the Permanent Press Cycle.

Other than the Permanent Press won't have a "wrinkle care" feature,
jumpering T-W shouldn't have any effect ...



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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:05 pm
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matth2
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Hmmm...T-W didn't work.

Here's where I am: After that, I called in a highly rated repair guy, who replicated my tests and did a few more. He thinks it might be the timer, but he's not sure. He basically gave up!

Anyway, if I can send it back if it doesn't do the job, I think I'll try getting one through here.

-matt

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:12 pm
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matth2
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I believe the part # is
AP2911172

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 Posted: Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:13 pm
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kdog
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See if you are getting 120v to the blue and white wires at the motor (4m - 5m), if not, plug cheater wire to these terminals and plug cord into 120v outlet - if motor is good it will run

you have to make some changes to the wiring when replacing that motor, be certain that the motor is wired up correctly

Last edited on Fri Oct 15th, 2010 08:14 pm by kdog



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