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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Replacing/Repairing WH83X10002 GE Washer Brake Assembly

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Replacing/Repairing WH83X10002 GE Washer Brake Assembly  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 04:23 pm
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mmbridges
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Hi folks,

Back again battling with my GE washer brake/transmission assembly. After I re-tightened the hub nut I have been able to get another year of service out of it. However, now even after tightening the hub nut again the tub is incrementally rotating during the agitation cycle. This suggests to me the brake is not holding. When washer is stopped I can rotating tub manually with little effort. While washer is agitating I can, with a very little force, keep the tub from rotating.

Questions:

1.) Is it common for transmission oil to get on the brake pad making it slip?
2.) Can brake pads be cleaned
3.) Can brake's be tightened?
4.) Can brake pads be replaced?

By the way, the tub bearing  and seal I replaced seem fine as there are no leaks from the tub down to the transmission and the spin cycle is quiet as a mouse.

I know many have suggested it is not worth the time but at this stage I'm kind of enjoying the battle and don't quite want to give up yet. :)

Mike



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 Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 09:36 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Could you double check that model number?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 10:31 pm
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mmbridges
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Sorry. The model number of the GE washer is WCXR1070TAWW and the part number for the transmission/brake assembly is WH83X10002. Hope that helps/clarifies.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 12:44 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This is was an all-too common problem back in The Day. Surprised yours lasted this long!

You'll need to replace the transmission/brake assembly.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-WCXR1070TAWW-%3d%3dc25i279566&PartID=279566

Some grisly pictures of the horror that awaits you:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2007/11/26/replacing-the-transmission-in-a-ge-top-loading-washing-machine/



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 04:53 am
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mmbridges
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So I have actually followed Jedi's wonderful instructions with associated pictures and went through the horror you allude to a year and a half ago and it wasn't to bad.

When you say I need a new transmission I would like to see if there is another option where I could repair the brake portion of the transmission. I have included a picture of the brake assy I installed before I attached the mounting platform. I have annotated it to show a black brake pad which I believe is technically called a friction ring.

My question is can I simply replace that piece if I discover oil got on it.

My guess is that what I call the bottom half of brake presses the brake pad against the mounting platform (not shown) in order to keep the tub from rotating during agitation.  I am thinking some transmission oil got between these two surfaces or maybe I didn't properly torque down the bolts that attach the brake assy to the mounting platform.

What do you think?  

Attachment: brake assy.jpg (Downloaded 43 times)

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 04:55 am
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mmbridges
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Here is a picture of the brake/transmission assembly after the mounting platform with motor has been attached.

Attachment: brake with motor.jpg (Downloaded 42 times)

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 04:56 am
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Moostafa
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Hello, my oily friend. This repair would be greatly facilitated if you have received your Appliantology 3000 microchip implant. Have you had the procedure yet?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 04:59 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Moostafa, thank you but please STFU.

mm, I don't know if they still offer the brake assembly as a separate part anymore. I know used to back in The Day but now all I find is the brake bundled with the transmission.

Further, the fact that there's oil on the brake means the transmission is FUBAR. Perhaps this why they don't offer the brake separately anymore.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 05:28 am
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mmbridges
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Thanks Samurai,

I actually went to Moostafa's link hoping there was some additional help beneath his tongue and cheek references. Glad you chimed in before I spent too much time sifting through it.

Please forgive my persistance but when you say FUBAR can you elaborate? I would suspect you mean if there is oil on the brake pad, maybe there is a broken seal and all of the transmission oil has leaked out. This would mean the inner gears will probably go soon if not already.

I have not taken it apart to see if oil is on the pad so I was just speculating. Can you think of any other reason the brake may not be holding.

So humor me for a moment if you will. If I do end up removing the brake pad and find oil on it what is the best way to clean it?

I know it will probably get oily again but I would like to see how long it will last after cleaning it.

The spin cycle is quiet as a mouse and the tub seal and air bell are holding so no water leaking into the trany. I would like to try and clean the brake pad as a zero cost repair attempt before I cry uncle.:)

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 05:30 am
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mmbridges
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By the way, is my understanding of how the brake works correct?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 12:18 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Moostafa wrote: Hello, my oily friend. This repair would be greatly facilitated if you have received your Appliantology 3000 microchip implant.
I have one of those implants...

but wait ..

mine was implanted a little lower ...


:moondance:

 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 12:55 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You wear it well, Reg!



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 02:44 pm
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mmbridges
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So just to get a better understanding of how the GE Transmission/brake assembly works. I manually turned the pulley attached to the brake/transmisison assy and found different operation depending on the direction of rotation.

Clockwise rotation of pulley made the inner spline attached to the agitator rotate back and forth according to some gear ratio.

Counter clockwise rotation of the pulley seemed to rotate the outer shaft, connected to the tub, in one direction. I believe this is the spin cycle.

So it seems the direction of pulley rotation controls all.

What I am still puzzled by is how the brake engages and disengages. It seems in normal agitation mode the brake is engaged( i.e. the brake pad is pressed against the mounting platform surface and the resulting friction keeps the tub form spinning. However during the spin cycle the brake is disengaged.

I am guessing that when in the spin cycle mode, the direction of pulley rotation causes, what I think is a spring in the first image, to wind up and somehow pull the brake pad away from the mounting platform surface, thereby allowing the tub to spin freely.

Am I close?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 09:24 pm
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denrayr
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the spring you see below the pulley acts as a one way clutch. in one direction the entire assembly spins. in the other direction the clutch slips allowing the cam beneath it to rotate which locks the brake. the part that goes bad is the cam underneath the spring. there are some ball bearings inside which help it rotate. the grease dries out and the bearings develope flat spots preventing full cam movement. there used to be a kit which came with new bearings, grease, and a cam. as far as i know this kit is no longer available and is more trouble than its worth anyway. You would be much better off replacing the entire transmission like already mentiond and depending on the condition of the washer it might be a better option to replace it.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 11:56 pm
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mmbridges
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Thanks for the brake operation explanation. That cleared things up for me.

So I heard all of your recommendations but I guess I am a glutton for punishment.

I pulled the trigger. My dad is visiting for two weeks and I will press him into service. I will let you know how this sadistic exercise turns out.:)


Last edited on Wed Oct 6th, 2010 02:44 am by

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 Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 12:43 am
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mmbridges
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I guess I accidentally included some info in my previous post that could be taken as an advertisement. Sorry about that. My intent was to indicate:

1.) The brake bearing replacement kit referenced by denrayr is still available and has a part number of WH49X10002.

2.) I found the kit at a price that met my $ sink threshold and was going ahead and purchasing this kit to attempt what most have described as  "not worth the trouble".


I now have to admit that I made a critical blunder in my $ sink threshold calculation. After I clicked buy on  the WH49X10002 brake bearing kit I found some instructions that describe another kit that contained special tools used with the brake bearing kit. This kit is called GE T-Bearing Install Tool Kit WX5X6275. The combined price of both kits is only slightly lower than the costs of a new transmission!:(

Oh well, I am past the point of no return now. I let you know how it turns out.

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