Kenmore Elite Washer #110.49972.600 F70 error - how do I check wiring harnesses? - The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

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Kenmore Elite Washer #110.49972.600 F70 error - how do I check wiring harnesses?

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Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 04:41 am

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janrocks
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Thanks to this site, we rescued all my daughters jeans that were trapped in the wash when it stopped with the door locked! Removed front panel, pulled tab to release lock.

Left the washer unplugged overnight to reset as code was not remembered, and when plugged in it locked and made noise, but no lights and won't start (3 beeps). I then opened door with pull tab release again, unplugged for a while to reset, and plugged in. Now the door opens and closes normally, but no lights no start.

I located the secret repairman's sheet in the washer cave per the posts, and ran the manual diagnostics and got error code F70. I'm thinking the jeans got off balance and shook a wire loose. It says to check the continuity of the User Interface harness and the connections between that and the central control unit, but I'm not sure where that is....is there a diagram somewhere o master?

Domo Arigato! Rescuing the jeans was #1 in her first college week!

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Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 11:59 am

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appl.tech.29501
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The CCU is located up under the top attached to the right hand side of the machine. The top is held on with 3 screws across the back (remove screws, slide back, lift off).

The interface is harder to get to. Not at my computer at the moment, if no one else gets to ya I will post a video showing how to get into the control panel later tonight.

You will also need an ohm meter

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Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 02:44 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Got some good diagnostic and component access info in this post, come have a look...

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/16/whirlpool-duet-sport-washer-testing-and-replacing-the-motor-control-unit-mcu/

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Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 06:20 am

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janrocks
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Thank you both so much for answering so quickly! I'm off to remove the top cover and start looking. I made arrangements to borrow a meter tomorrow.

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Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 03:01 pm

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janrocks
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Darn it, I can't figure out how to reach the screws behind the top face. My arms aren't quite long enough to reach up past the drum. (I'm reaching up from the bottom panel.)) And won't the big plastic ring that covers the seal around the door have to come off? The face is behind it in places...or does it just slip out?

Thanks for any help...I washed my gi the old fashioned way in the tub last night...but I had no rock to beat it on...

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Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 03:15 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You're trying to take off the top panel? It's just three screws on the very back outside of the top panel. Use a mirror if you need to, you'll see 'em.

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Posted: Sat Oct 9th, 2010 08:54 pm

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janrocks
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I was trying to remove the front, not the top. But now it's not doing F70 any more...plugged back in and now when I put in diagnostics, it's stopping at C00. Does this mean the control panel is bad?

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Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 01:18 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Why are you trying to remove the front panel?

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Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 06:23 am

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Tronicsmasta

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isn't f-70 a heartbeat failure?

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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

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Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 09:03 pm

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janrocks
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Thanks again for trying to help! I am sooo frustrated

I was trying to remove the front panel because I thought that was the way to the wiring...similar to how I removed the bottom panel to release the door latch.

I am back humbly at your mercy, because I gave up last week and called the local repair shop. They told me the washer wasn't worth fixing, and that each part cost $300-400 and he couldn't send them back if they didn't fix it. I notice your site, and several others take returns, so think he just didn't want to fix it. He "fixed" the leak in my fridge, and now the icemaker doesn't work. And charged me $30 to run the diagnostics on the washer, which now shows code c00...he said he couldn't get it to run the diagnostics and get F70....I had done it twice, but now it won't run so don't really know what he did! I asked him to check the control panel harness, and he said he couldn't because there was no one to help him unstack the dryer. (no one but my 18 yr old 6 ft tall teenage daughter....who lifted the thing up there!)

I also see posts on other sites to join class action lawsuits for this particular washer because of the associated control board problems. I really don't know what to do at this point... but I am going to attempt unstacking the units today and looking at the wiring. And try a part swap if I can return if that doesn't help.

My recent experiences with Sears don't lead me to much hope contacting the company, but it was suggested to me to put it on maintenance.

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Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 11:10 pm

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Tronicsmasta

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i work for sears. ill check it out tomorrow at work. give me your model and serial and phone number via PM and i will look you up

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Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 04:12 am

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kdog
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Have seen F70/F71 codes caused by bad motor control boards - disconnect power harness to motor board and try diagnostic again

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Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 04:33 am

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Tronicsmasta

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hmm... yes

disconnect the 3 blue wires and the 2 pink wire connector from the motor control. run the diagnostics
--if still f-70 continue on to see if the interface or ccu is bad.
--if f-28 then most likely, your mcu is bad.

reconnect your motor control. check for 5 volts DC on the user interface wires at the user interface. its labeled UIP on the right side interface board. disconnect UIP and measure between the outer most pins.

if you have 5 or -5 volts with the mcu connected
--then most likely its the ccu or right side interface.

if you do not have 5 volts, check again with the motor control disconnected.
--if 5 volts, replace motor control.

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Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 02:27 pm

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delawaredrew
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Yah the MCU in these is usually the culprit. It is not an inexpensive piece.
The error codes are not as specific as they seem. I usually pull the MI3 plug with 3 blue wires off the top board (CCU) to see if its behavior changes. Like Tronics said above you can also do this at the motor controller (MCU).

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Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 02:03 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This page shows how to the True Blue MCU test==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/16/whirlpool-duet-sport-washer-testing-and-replacing-the-motor-control-unit-mcu/

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Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 04:58 am

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janrocks
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Thank you again for the help. I finally have the washer open, so will try to isolate the part now. I was hoping for a loose wire or connector, but alas every thing looks pristine and tight.

Sorry for the delay in reply - I've been at the Laundromat - ha.

Tronicsmaster, I am upgrading from Grasshopper right now so I will be able to send you the #ers on the washer by PM (if the offer is still good!)to look them up. I'm still slightly hopeful there could be some help from Sears since it seems to be happening to a lot of folks.

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Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 05:35 am

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Tronicsmasta

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sure i await your PM

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Posted: Tue Oct 19th, 2010 07:08 am

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janrocks
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I have made different error codes! (hoping that is progress)

I pulled the three blue wires at the m13 plug. It didn't do 3 beeps when I plugged in, but the cycle code light started flashing. I powered off and on and got F22. Then I ran the diagnostics and straight to F22 again.

I plugged those back in and went in search of the MCU. found the three blue and two pink wires under a little cover that snapped open at the bottom of the washer. But I can't get the blue wires out...there is a tab with a lip holding them in...I'm pushing it pretty hard and afraid of breaking (and don't want to pull the blue wires). The pink wires seemed a bit disturbed...so I pushed back in, but that might have happened when I removed the plastic cover. Started again and back to 3 beeps and c00 displaying.

So now I need help on how to get those out...or did removing the M13 wire at the top control board effectively test the same thing? And F22 means?

Thanks again all....

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Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 06:26 am

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janrocks
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I figured out that f22 was from me unplugging the door lock wires, so sounds like that means the ccu is okay and the mcu is bad.

I would like to unplug all the MCU wires to double check, but as stated above can't get the connector with the three blue wires off?Any tips on that would be appreciated. I'd like to see if the board is scorched as some other poster have reported.

Dreading facing the laundromat tomorrow

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Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 12:12 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Don't pull on the wires themselves because they'll pull right out of the harness connector. Grasp the white harness connector and wiggle it back and forth while pulling.

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