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GE WCVH6260FWW Won't start when I push the button

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 09:17 pm

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BigZig
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Loaded the washer this morning, added soap, turned on the water, and powered on the machine. When I pushed the Start/pause button to start the cycle nothing happened. I heard two beeps when I tried to starting it again. I unplugged the machine and plugged it back in thinking it might reset but nothing. I emptied the drain trap just in case it was clogged but it wasn't. All of the other buttons seem to work and selection change okay but the machine won't start. Machine was new in Jan. 2006 and we had a new seal put in it about 4-5 months ago. Need advice on how to fix. Thanks

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 09:24 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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do you hear the door Lock "click"

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 09:26 pm

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BigZig
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Nope. It won't even do that.

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 09:50 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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Remove the lower front panel and see if you can find the tech sheet. It should be in a plastic bag taped to one of the side. It should have some testing instruction or an auto diagnostic test.

I'm thinking you have a door lock problem See if you can get lucky and push in on the door hard in the area where the latch is and try to start the machine.

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 09:55 pm

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BigZig
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I will look for the test sheet. I have tried pushing on the door to set the latch without success. We had to do this for a little while when we got the new seal. Evidently it was stiff and needed some break-in time according to the service guy. I'll post again with what I find.

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 10:00 pm

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BigZig
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There was not a tech sheet inside

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 10:38 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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I have only found one other post on the exact same symptom you described "2 beeps". it that case it ended up being the control board. I'm not totally convinced that your door latch isn't bad. Is the door strike in good shape? Tip not broken off? you can test the door switch with a meter to ensure its getting 120V.

I will post links for the door latch and the control board . All parts purchased from Repair Clinic can be returned within 30 days for a full refund.

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Posted: Mon Sep 6th, 2010 10:42 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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Door Latch Link

Control Boad Link

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 12:01 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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Try this Service Test to see if the Door actually locks:

1) Press power button to clear any current cycles.

Note: The display must be blank to proceed.

2) Disconnect the power for 30 seconds.

3) Reconnect power and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power:

a) Press signal button.
b) Press delay start button.
c) Press signal button.
d) Press delay start button. (The Door will lock, then will display t01.)

Note: A washer left in the test mode will exit the test
mode and unlock the door after a period of 2 hours.

OR to exit the Test Mode:

1) Press signal button.
2) Press delay start button.
3) Press signal button.
4) Press delay start button.

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 12:50 am

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BigZig
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The door strike is in good condition with nothing broken off. I ran the door latch test you suggested and did not have any locking of the door with "t01" display. Nothing happened. I will check the door switch with a meter.

Can you send me or post directions or an exploded view so I can access the control board and door latch? this would be very helpful. thank you

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 12:53 am

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BigZig
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One more thing. The machine always powers on in the Rinse&Spin mode which never happened before. It usually remembered the last mode it was set at. We don't use Rinse & Spin.

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 03:28 am

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appl.tech.29501
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Remove the top of the machine (a couple screws across the back) slide back lift off.

From inside the cabinet, lift and push forward to
release the bottom tab of the control panel from the front bracket (located on the right hand side).

Lift the top edge of the panel to disengage the 3
tabs that hold the top of the panel in place.

Push the control panel towards the left, then
release the side tab.

Now that you can get to the connections you can test for voltages to the door latch.

with the machine programed to run when you hit the start button you should have 120 V across the Yellow and Orange wires on the P8 connector and 120V across the yellow and Red wires on the P6 connector.

Check that out and let us know what you find.

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 04:57 am

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john63

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BigZig wrote: There was not a tech sheet inside

The TECH SHEET is located at the top of the washer (under the top cover).

To remove the TOP COVER---there's 3 "phillips" screws behind the *crown* which is at the top of the front control panel-- pull / pry and remove the curved plastic crown off.

Three more screws at the rear of the TOP COVER must be removed as well.

Slide the TOP COVER rearward about 1 to 2 inches---then lift off.

You'll find the TECH SHEET.

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 02:46 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This one seems an awful lot like a Duet Sport (door latch assembly, tech sheet location). Are they being made for GE now, too?

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Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 04:30 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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I think this one was made by whirlpool

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Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 12:32 am

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BigZig
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I got the top off and gained access to the control board. I found the tech sheet too. I measured voltage across the P8 and P6 connectors like you suggested and did not get any AC voltage reading. Bummer.

I am preparing to buy an expensive Control Board Assembly but at least I did it myself (with your help of course!) Is this my next step?

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Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 02:13 am

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appl.tech.29501
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Yep, that sounds like the next step. If for some reason that doesnt take care of your problem you can return the part if you buy it from Repair Clinic with in 30 days, but the control should be what you need.

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Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 01:14 am

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BigZig
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I put in a new control board but nothing happened. No lights just beeps. I was supposed to start in t01 mode and need programming to my model but nothing is working. I put the old one back in and it lights up and beeps but doesn't start. There really isn't anything I think I could be doing wrong. Any ideas? I will have to returnthe board tomorrow for a replacement.

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Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 02:21 am

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appl.tech.29501
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I find it hard to believe that the new board is bad although it does happen sometimes, but it's rare. I still think your board was bad if your voltage checks were accurate.

Did you double check all the connectors to the board to make sure they were seated securely and properly?

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Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 02:33 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Pull your door latch assembly out and look closely at it, comparing with this pic:

Broken Door Latch on a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore HE3 Washer by Zenzoidman, on Flickr

If that little nub is broken off, the machine won't start or run.

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